Older Yanmar.. rebuild? replace? or?... - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 275 Old 03-02-2011
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Reliable

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Originally Posted by bljones View Post
... if it does break
Very unlikely, just put filters and water separators on the engine to prevent contamination of fuel, make sure the alternator and batteries are in good shape, change the raw water impeller every year or so, have several injectors on hand as spares plus parts for above items and this should be a very reliable setup. But then the above should be required for all diesel engines.
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post #22 of 275 Old 03-02-2011
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I will be as naughty as saying going engine less is going brain less!!!
In a lot of ports sailing is prohibited.
Entering most marinas without engines, might even be a problem, both practical and legally.
Any third party damage and I'm sure your insurance company may want a word or two with you.
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post #23 of 275 Old 03-02-2011
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What! Expensive Repairs?

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Originally Posted by chrisncate View Post
if I can find a way to get the motor and shaft done without taking up 1/4th of our budget for the refit.
Would you please give me a price breakdown of the prices for working on the engine and propeller shaft? If this is going to take of your budget, then it just does not make sense. You have an engine that is running. True that it is hard starting, but without glow plugs, that is understandable plus there are three or four simple things to do that could make this engine easier starting. I have seen how mechanics can jerk a person around just to make some money. With the boating industry in a recession like the rest of the economy, we could have some hungry repairmen out there willing to not be honest about what is really needed. The curious here want to know how it could be so expensive to work on an engine that at this point I do not see anything wrong with. Lets see what is said needs to be done and do a little trouble shooting to make sure the truth comes out. There are some honest mechanics out there, who also know how to diagnose a problem and then fix it correctly for the least amount of money. This is not always the way it is.
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post #24 of 275 Old 03-02-2011
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OK, this is getting beyond my expertise as to costs. Maybe someone else here on Sailnet can help us out. When one does it them self, the costs are a lot less and it is hard for me to judge. But in looking at BoatWorks: Sailboat Maintenance, Repair, and Improvement Advice You Can’t Get Anywhere Else, Selected from Boatworks Magazine by the Editors of Sail Magazine (how’s that for a name) removal of the propeller shaft and replacement of cutlass bearing does not look that complicated or expensive because there was no need to remove engine with re-alignment of engine. This repair might be difficult for someone not familiar with pullers and other tools. When I look at Nigel Calder’s books, re-alignment the way he shows it being done is simple and I think easier than the propeller shaft removal. Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual: How to Maintain, Repair, and Improve Your Boat's Essential Systems covered this or was it Marine Diesel Engines: Maintenance, Troubleshooting, and Repair? Maybe I can get to the library and check since I need to go anyway.

What are the symptoms that indicate that this work is required? Was there excessive leakage at the packing gland or vibration? Did you move the propeller shaft up and down, port to starboard, back and forth to see if the cutlass bearing is defective? And by the way, is it impossible to remove the propeller shaft without removing the engine? It was not necessary in the above article, but maybe yours is different.
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post #25 of 275 Old 03-02-2011
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I would opt for a conventional stuffing box - the kind your boat has had without major issues for 40 years. I would also do it myself. Same with alignment and cutlass.
A standard stuffing box will drip a few times a minute when the engine is running and not at all when it is not running. About the only way they cause a flood is if you rip the shaft out.
A dripless pss seal will not drip at all if set up properly. But if there is an issue they tend to fail in a major way.
If you are able to replace your toe rail you can do this yourself.
Here's a few links to help Re-Packing A Traditional Stuffing Box Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
Replacing A Cutlass Bearing Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
If you still desire an expensive pss shaft seal here's a link for that
PSS Shaft Seal Installation Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

Here's a link on engine mounts and alignment
Replacing Motor Mounts & The Obstacles Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour

Last edited by mitiempo; 03-02-2011 at 11:57 PM. Reason: add
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post #26 of 275 Old 03-03-2011
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If your priority is going green at 'whatever cost', here is an alternative to the Yanmar:
Product List
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They did mention a budget......

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
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post #28 of 275 Old 03-03-2011
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Any 'budget' in a cruising project should have an investment/repair part and a running cost part.
The initial investment might be higher, bot 'running costs' next to '0'.
I used to sail IOD back in the 60's with no engine. A bit 'tricky' getting in and out of the marina berth', but on the other hand a lot of us were in the same situation at that time. Not to forget the marinas in general had room to maneuver. A bit different today, as they sometimes seems to believe people have flexible boats that bends or at least pivots around the mast-line.
I'm afraid this 'no-engine' project will sooner or later put someone else life and property in danger. A responsible skipper should always put 3d party safety before his own! A boat of this kind to be used for 'cruising' is not complete in safety-equipment without an engine of some sort.
In an emergency, yes, but as a common rule - irresponsible!
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post #29 of 275 Old 03-03-2011
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I don't think the engine-less plan works for anything but daysailing unless you're in a situation like the Pardeys and need to make a statement and have (unequivocally) the free time to make it work.

What if...... you're on a week long cruise, anchored in a nice private cove on your own, and your wife (or child) comes down with some sudden critical ailment or has an accident... the nearest facilities are 15 nm away but there's no wind.... With an engine you've got a chance of getting to some help in 2-3 hours... without? Who knows. I wouldn't want to rely on phone coverage or have to absolutely count on others to come to your aid.

No functioning engine seriously handicaps your self reliance.

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
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post #30 of 275 Old 03-03-2011
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Since propellers are bronze, does it take a special puller to remove them from the shaft? I am thinking the metal is softer. I did google boat propeller puller and got pictures of tools that were not the normal puller with jaws that I am used to.
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