Older Yanmar.. rebuild? replace? or?... - Page 4 - SailNet Community
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post #31 of 275 Old 03-03-2011
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Engineless

I sail on the north shore of Oahu. In the winter we get wave faces of 50 feet or more. There is a narrow channel to get into our boat harbor. The channel is narrow with corral reef on both sides. At times in the winter there can be a head wind into port for several days. No one would ever attempt to come in under sail. In addition to the adverse conditions a side current at 5 knots or more generated by the swell can take you out of the channel and into reef with breaking waves. Even with an engine we need to be prepared to anchor in 60 feet of water in case engine breaks. Even then there are no guarantees. The engine adds one more layer of insurance. Sure before engines sail boats sailed- but many ran aground and were lost. What are you going to do if you are sailing in a very restricted area and the wind shifts 180 deg and gust to 30 knots? What will you do if you are on a lee shore in a storm and get and lose the rig?
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post #32 of 275 Old 03-03-2011
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The Alberg 30 originally had the Atomic 4 so the 2GM20 has to be a re-engine. Just curious, if you have the time to look, what speed do you get at full throttle and what RPM? How may blades, propeller diameter, and what is the propeller shaft diameter, and that plaque on the side of the transmission, what is the gear reduction?
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post #33 of 275 Old 03-03-2011
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This is a big part of the reason why I say a minimum of 15-20% of the boat buying budget should be set aside and reserved for upgrading, modifying or repairing the boat.


Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisncate View Post
Well, not quite 1/4th, but my initial quote from the yard has come in at about $2500 for a dripless install with a motor alignment. This assumes a smooth extraction/install, and this does NOT include a new shaft if one is needed. Mine looks good btw, but it might not be as of course the problem area is not visible until you pull the shaft out.

I have to assume the worst, in which case I might be looking at more than quoted.



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post #34 of 275 Old 03-03-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisncate View Post
...Incidentally, we did speak with the yard today (as planned), and we are looking at (an estimated) $2093.85 or so for a new (traditional, bronze) stuffing box, a new cutlass, and an engine alignment
Is there any chance that you will do it yourself? I found descriptons on engine alignment in "Marine Diesel Engines" by Nigel Calder and in "This Old Boat" by Don Casey that do a good job of describing how to do it, and it really seems simple to me. Why they want to charge so much money to do it, I do not understand. Don Casey's book gives a complete description, but even Calder gives enough to get the job done.

You never did say why you are having all this work done. Do you actually have any problems that need attention now or are you just being careful? Can you get us several pictures of the inside where the propeller shaft is and also the outside? There should be some numbers stamped on the propeller, you could get that also?

Last edited by LakeSuperiorGeezer; 03-03-2011 at 10:41 PM.
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post #35 of 275 Old 03-03-2011
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2 Yard employees @ about $80/per hour is where the price comes from.

For a job that is not very complicated either. Every sailor should know how to change a cutlass, and the basics of engine alignment.

A stuffing box is a very simple device. You don't need expensive tools to repack or replace one. And you certainly don't have to write a big cheque to replace one.
Servicing Your Stuffing Box by Don Casey

Re-Packing A Traditional Stuffing Box Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

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post #36 of 275 Old 03-04-2011
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Close. You want to install several rings of flax with angled cuts, the cuts staggered. If you go to the 2nd link in my last post it shows this. It also suggests the best packing to use.

As far as the alignment, after the rest of the work is done you can at least get it close. If you have to hire a marine mechanic for fine tuning it sure beats paying for everything. It isn't really very complicated.
Here's a link that shows some of the issues.
Replacing Motor Mounts & The Obstacles Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

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post #37 of 275 Old 03-04-2011
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What you are up against are some of the easier jobs on a boat.
As for shaft seal/stuffing box. Have you considered this solution?
http://www.volvopenta.com/SiteCollec...0%28Eng%29.pdf

Cutless bearings have some different designs and I would need a pick to tell how to get yours out and in back again. Normally they are held in place by one or two set-screws. Remove the screws (after removing shaft), use a slide-hammer and pull it out, then knock the new one back in place.

Aligning the engine:
Center the prop-shaft in the stern-tube, push prop-flange toward gear-box flange. Use a feeler gauge. 0.05mm may go into the 'gap', 0.10 not. Just adjust the engine mounts up/down/sideways until 'perfect'. A bit frustrating first time, but you will learn a lot!
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post #38 of 275 Old 03-04-2011
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IIRC, Maine Sail has a pretty good post on removing/replacing a cutlass bearing on his pbase.com website.




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post #39 of 275 Old 03-04-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
IIRC, Maine Sail has a pretty good post on removing/replacing a cutlass bearing on his pbase.com website.
That covers a strut type bearing which is a bit different.
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post #40 of 275 Old 03-04-2011
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Murphy's Law

Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
...As far as the alignment, after the rest of the work is done you can at least get it close. If you have to hire a marine mechanic for fine tuning it sure beats paying for everything. It isn't really very complicated.
Here's a link that shows some of the issues.
Replacing Motor Mounts & The Obstacles Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
Well, "The Mounts & Obstacles Photo Gallery by Compass Marine" link is a demonstration of Murphy's Law, That's a lot that went wrong there.

Last edited by LakeSuperiorGeezer; 03-04-2011 at 09:05 AM.
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