Electric Conversion log for Kahleesea - Page 27 - SailNet Community
 112Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #261 of 282 Old 07-09-2019 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Deale, MD
Posts: 372
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Re: Electric Conversion log for Kahleesea

Quote:
Originally Posted by texlan View Post
My boat at the lake is running off of non-isolated dc converters from the 24v propulsion bank. The E29 I am refitting, I plan on running house loads off of isolated "stackable" dc converters, but also putting a couple ~55ish ah floated lead acids (located close to the loads) in to run electric primary winches and the windlass. I don't want to put inductive surging loads like that on converters, and certainly not on the same bus feeding radios/electronics.

You should totally hook us up with more pictures of your install and maybe a video of it running. What BMS did you go with again?

Thanks,
Sean
WK7R
The unit I've been looking at is the Orion 48-12 by Victron.

https://www.thepowerstore.com/orion-...converter.html

I don't have anything that generates any sort of heavy electric draw. My biggest draw is the cold machine, with draws a whopping 6A when running. All my electronics combined draws all of 1A. Even once I get the autopilot running, I doubt my max draw will crack 10A.

Good idea putting a lead acid near your winches and windlass. You might even be able to find a lithium battery that would be even smaller and lighter.

I normally sail solo these days, but next time I take someone else out I'll get some images of the system running. For some reason, people frown upon leaving your boat running with no one at the helm.

The BMS I use is the dilitihium BMS. It fits perfectly with my batteries and is easily expandable.

Last edited by Captain Canuck; 07-09-2019 at 08:45 AM.
Captain Canuck is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #262 of 282 Old 07-09-2019 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Deale, MD
Posts: 372
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Re: Electric Conversion log for Kahleesea

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbianka View Post
I have an detent position on my EP control for Regen. Though I usually adjust the control for about a 10 amp draw to turn the prop slightly and eliminate prop drag. It also automatically starts to regen as the wind picks up.

I kept my 12 volt house bank separate from my EP battery bank. Don't like having all the eggs in one basket. Though I do have a 48 volt to 12 volt converter available as a backup.
I like the detent idea. Not sure how I'll implement it, but it's definitely worth looking at.

I think my propulsion bank is wired differently than yours is. I'm running 4 parallel batteries, so if I lose on I only lose that much capacity. This is why I like the stackable converters, too - if I'm running two and one fails, as long as my draw isn't more than one can handle there's no problem. As I often say in my day job, "There's no such thing as too much redundancy."
mbianka likes this.
Captain Canuck is online now  
post #263 of 282 Old 07-09-2019 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Deale, MD
Posts: 372
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Re: Electric Conversion log for Kahleesea

Update 7/9/2019

I managed to find some wind yesterday and retest regen, to a point.

The system starts regenerating, barely, at 3.5kts. These are estimations, because regen varies wildly according to my ammeter, with wider swings the faster I go. These numbers represent the average.

3.5kts <.5A
4kts ~1A
5kts ~3A
5.5kts ~4A
6kts ~5Aish - this was very hard to tell, since I couldn't maintain 6kts for any amount of time.

Assuming I can maintain 5kts, that gives me a kwh every 6.5 hours from regen. This isn't enough to make a meaningful dent in the propulsion bank, but it is enough to run all the electronics, once I've moved to a DC/DC converter. Expecting to move at 6kts on the regular on the Chesapeake is unrealistic. In the last 5 years of sailing I doubt I've hit 6 kts steady no more than a few times. One time I hit 7 kts steady, but I was going like a bat out of hell on a broad reach in heavy swells trying to get back into my harbor before a storm hit. I made it. Just.

If I want meaningful amperage to recharge the propulsion bank while sailing, solar is looking like the way to go.
mbianka likes this.

Last edited by Captain Canuck; 07-09-2019 at 11:03 AM.
Captain Canuck is online now  
 
post #264 of 282 Old 07-09-2019
Senior Member
 
Minnesail's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 2,724
Thanks: 160
Thanked 117 Times in 113 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
Re: Electric Conversion log for Kahleesea

Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Canuck View Post
The unit I've been looking at is the Orion 48-12 by Victron.

https://www.thepowerstore.com/orion-...converter.html

I don't have anything that generates any sort of heavy electric draw. My biggest draw is the cold machine, with draws a whopping 6A when running. All my electronics combined draws all of 1A. Even once I get the autopilot running, I doubt my max draw will crack 10A.
I have a 24v battery bank to run my electric motor, and I use the Victron 24-12 converter to power my house load. It works quite well. It puts out a consistent 12.5v regardless of what voltage the main bank is at.

My highest load is a 12v electric drill. If itís really bearing down it will drop the house voltage, so I agree with Texlanís idea to have a separate power supply for hungry electric motors. But it keeps up with the rest of my loads no problem. Small boat, though, so small loads. Max would be a small fan, stereo, chartplotter, lights, and maybe recharging a phone.




My motor (Minn Kota trolling motor) is 50 amps and 24 volts, and I canít quite make 4 knots with that. Considering my boat is a quarter the weight of yours Iím clearly not running as efficiently. I wonder if a different prop would make a difference.

Catalina 22
on a starboard tack
Minnesail is online now  
post #265 of 282 Old 07-09-2019 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Deale, MD
Posts: 372
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Re: Electric Conversion log for Kahleesea

Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnesail View Post
I have a 24v battery bank to run my electric motor, and I use the Victron 24-12 converter to power my house load. It works quite well. It puts out a consistent 12.5v regardless of what voltage the main bank is at.

My highest load is a 12v electric drill. If itís really bearing down it will drop the house voltage, so I agree with Texlanís idea to have a separate power supply for hungry electric motors. But it keeps up with the rest of my loads no problem. Small boat, though, so small loads. Max would be a small fan, stereo, chartplotter, lights, and maybe recharging a phone.


My motor (Minn Kota trolling motor) is 50 amps and 24 volts, and I canít quite make 4 knots with that. Considering my boat is a quarter the weight of yours Iím clearly not running as efficiently. I wonder if a different prop would make a difference.
I'm glad to hear the Victron works well. That cements my thoughts on buying one.

The Minn Kota trolling motor is probably using a prop that's most efficient at 50-60% power. If you're running at at 100% to hit 4kts, you're definitely not getting maximum efficiency. I'm not familiar with the Minn Kota line, but they might have a prop from a bigger motor that would turn more efficiently at full power. At least you're using a pod motor with a direct-drive shaft, which is as efficient as it gets.
Minnesail likes this.
Captain Canuck is online now  
post #266 of 282 Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Deale, MD
Posts: 372
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Re: Electric Conversion log for Kahleesea

Update 7/15/2019

The *&(#$& ammeter broke. I'm now searching for a new one. When I turned the power on for the boat I almost had a heart attack looking at the display. Then I realized that the level of power output it's displaying is literally impossible for the battery bank. 297kW of current out of a 9kWh battery? That's capacitor-level discharge. Even when I put the boat into forward and stared the prop spinning the display didn't change. Obviously the sensor is fried. I checked he voltage manually and it came back at 50.4V, which is precisely where it should be.

I really expected the ammeter to last a little longer than two months, even though it wasn't built for marine use. I was hoping to get a season out of it and replace it when I'm back on the hard with something a little more permanent.

I installed a 48-12V converter and removed all but one of my house bank batteries (never hurts to have a backup). It easily runs everything on the boat. I left my fridge on for days to test it, and the drinks were nice and frosty each time I checked on it, even though it cracked 100F one day.

If anyone has a line on a waterproof DC 48V ammeter display that shows amps, volts, and kwh, I would very much like to hear from you. Nothing on Amazon seems to be waterproof.
Attached Thumbnails
58465459350__D86C3F36-AB17-4E42-96F4-D37BE26BB30B.JPG  
Captain Canuck is online now  
post #267 of 282 Old 4 Weeks Ago
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northeast U.S
Posts: 1,935
Thanks: 5
Thanked 74 Times in 71 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Re: Electric Conversion log for Kahleesea

Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Canuck View Post
Update 7/15/2019

If anyone has a line on a waterproof DC 48V ammeter display that shows amps, volts, and kwh, I would very much like to hear from you. Nothing on Amazon seems to be waterproof.
Not sure if it's waterproof or show kwh. But I've been using an TBS Expert Pro Hv without problems for years for my Thosa 9000 EP system. https://tbs-electronics.com/product/...nitor-12v-24v/

Mike
Currently: Enjoying Summer's sailing season

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
mbianka is offline  
post #268 of 282 Old 4 Weeks Ago
Senior Member
 
davidpm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Madison
Posts: 5,068
Thanks: 521
Thanked 90 Times in 80 Posts
Rep Power: 12
 
Re: Electric Conversion log for Kahleesea

Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Canuck View Post

If anyone has a line on a waterproof DC 48V ammeter display that shows amps, volts, and kwh, I would very much like to hear from you. Nothing on Amazon seems to be waterproof.

How about waterproofing whatever you can find.

Corrosion X HD, Turbo-coat, and NeverWet

The lesson from the Icarus story is not about human failing.
It is a lesson about the limitations of wax as an adhesive.
If you have an engineering problem solve it.
davidpm is online now  
post #269 of 282 Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Deale, MD
Posts: 372
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Re: Electric Conversion log for Kahleesea

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbianka View Post
Not sure if it's waterproof or show kwh. But I've been using an TBS Expert Pro Hv without problems for years for my Thosa 9000 EP system. https://tbs-electronics.com/product/...nitor-12v-24v/
I really liked the unit I found. I'd like something similar that gives me the same but in a more waterproof package.

I prefer seeing voltage rather than a battery gauge. That way I can tell if something cuts out before or after it should.
Captain Canuck is online now  
post #270 of 282 Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Deale, MD
Posts: 372
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Re: Electric Conversion log for Kahleesea

Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Canuck View Post
I really liked the unit I found. I'd like something similar that gives me the same but in a more waterproof package.

I prefer seeing voltage rather than a battery gauge. That way I can tell if something cuts out before or after it should.
As it turns out, it was the sensor package that was inside the boat, not the display, that went belly up. The sensor portion is sealed, so I can only guess that it was badly manufactured. The control board is still OK, but for some reason the actual sensors went crazy. Maybe I can get a replacement board and just swap it out for cheap.
Captain Canuck is online now  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 4 (2 members and 2 guests)
kkct , ssmyers102
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Winners of Harbor Destin Boat Parade announced - Destin Log and Walton Log NewsReader News Feeds 0 12-06-2011 01:20 AM
Electric Conversion andrewoliv Gear & Maintenance 30 11-09-2011 11:06 AM
Jabsco Electric Conversion LakePirate Gear & Maintenance 13 03-01-2011 03:18 PM
Head - electric conversion or new electric head snw Gear & Maintenance 5 04-29-2007 07:07 AM
The Log Investigates - Abandoned Boats Plague Mission Bay in Wake - The Log Newspaper NewsReader News Feeds 0 03-08-2007 03:15 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome