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trailer sailer electrical refit: safety first advice
I'm starting from nothing but some old 1975 house wire in my 20 Ranger sailboat. I may reuse the vhf antenna, and the running lights. Otherwise, nothing is salvageable. I lack vhf, lights, bilge pump, and all instruments.
I mostly do 2-3 day cruises around Puget Sound and San Juans. My math tells me I'm looking at ~12 Amp hours of use on busy day. Here's my rough plan, and I'd love any feedback or corrections:
Starting with a new 28AH powersonic, may be too small, considering 2x of them.
BlueSea terminal fuses: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SE6Z2WI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
3 circuits from battery:
1) 10A fused automatic bilge pump. (overkill, but she may be seasonally in a slip)
2) 20A fused on/off 12v switch feeding a 4 gang panel
3) 5A fused PMW solar controller
Power switch: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MTB7XS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
My complete system will include:
Masthead led anchor light (.2A)
deck level led nav lights (.3A)
DSC VHF + GPS mouse (1.2A receive, 5A broadcast)
3 LED cabin lights (.5A)
12V cig (???A)
dual usb charging slots (3A @5v)
auto bilge pump (5A)
Charging is via 40 watts of solar and (5A fused) Morningstar SG4 PWM controller.
What is the best way to protect that 12v cig socket? Put it on a dedicated gang switch on the panel? Otherwise gets lumped in the Accessories gang which shares a breaker with instruments, vhf, etc. I suppose I could connect directly to the 12V switch and fuse independently, maybe that's best?
One debate I'm having is over the auto bilge configuration, or simply using one of the panel gangs for the pump. The boat spends non-sailing days trailered and covered, but maybe not forever.
Where am I headed for trouble? Where can I do better?
Thanks in advance for all I've learned from your past threads!