"Not an electrician" needs wiring critique. - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 46 Old 11-23-2016
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVAuspicious View Post
I defer to your knowledge of ABYC but I'm pretty sure the NEC does not approve that Home Depot/Lowes/WalMart extension cord for submersion. If the hundreds of thousands of boats using extension cords never end up with the extension cord in the water I'll be very surprised.
Shore power cord-sets from Hubbell & Marinco use PVC jacketed STW 600V 60C wire. This is no different than a a good quality contractor grade extension cord which can easily be sourced with the same STW rating.. STW extension cords are quite easy to find, even in yellow if you want.

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From a practical point of view straight blade connectors are not mechanically secure. Ignore the fact that 99.5% (I made that number up - almost all) of outlets are upside down. A straight blade connector not fully seated is a safety hazard. Twist-lock and even SmartPlug are better even if not perfect. I rather like ring terminals and machine screws myself, but hey that's just me. *grin*
Considering how bad the "twist-lock" 30A connections perform, out in the real world, and how bogus the grandfathered current carrying rating is, IMHO they are really only a knats hair better than a 120V standard straight blade.

Again an extension cord is only a last resort when you have a marina "properly wired" for it and only then to avoid a DIY making potentially deadly AC wiring mistakes.. Properly wired for it means GFCI protected dock outlets and, if wired recently, an ELCI breaker at the service point.



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That doesn't make it a good idea for unattended applications.
Neither does a twist-lock 30A service, yet thousands of boaters choose to rely on them every day while they continue to cause MILLIONS in fire damages each year.



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Originally Posted by SVAuspicious View Post
Agreed. I built a breaker box for my adapter.
And how many 30A to straight blade adapters are out there? Yours would be the first correct adapter from 30A to 15A I have ever seen. I conduct electrical inspections (leakage etc.) on upwards of 200-300 slips per year and have yet to see one. I honestly don't know how they get away with even selling them or how they can sleep at night doing so without the proper over-current protection. Adapters are just one of those "slips between the NEC/NFPA land based standards and ABYC cracks sort of issues.

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Last edited by Maine Sail; 11-23-2016 at 03:15 PM.
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post #22 of 46 Old 11-23-2016 Thread Starter
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

Here are my edits:

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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

Also...is there an easy way to eliminate the (potential) neutral to ground condition in my cheapo "not for marine use" inverter?

Mike
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post #24 of 46 Old 11-23-2016
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

Yup; DON'T USE IT in a Marine environment.

What do you need an inverter for on a 27' boat anyway?


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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

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What do you need an inverter for on a 27' boat anyway?
TV? Other non DC appliances?
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

Please go back and re-read Post #18 https://www.sailnet.com/forums/3737609-post18.html
Your AC distribution is not correct. You could consider purchasing a pre-wired AC distribution panel.
You really really have to get that part correct.

On the DC side, if you are going to parallel the batteries as a house bank they both need to be deep discharge types.
I can't tell what DC loads are bypassing your battery switch and which aren't but previous posts in this thread state the one or two loads only that should bypass the switch.
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post #27 of 46 Old 11-23-2016
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

Smitty

The breaker you need is double pole and rated for AC. The one you show above is a single pole and rated for DC only.

This would work and meets all standards:



An additional 15 amp breaker is installed in the blank space for AC outlets. If you need more circuits other panels can be chosen.

The galvanic isolator is the first item after the shore power inlet, then the panel shown above.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
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post #28 of 46 Old 11-23-2016
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty225 View Post
Here are my edits:
Still No.. See post # 18..

If you want an installed AC system it should be done correctly, to the standards and safely.

Flow will look like this:

30A Inlet > 10GA Triplex Marine Wire (White, Black, Green) > White & Black to Double Pole Main Breaker (With Reverse Polarity Indicator) > Green to AC grounding bus and bonds to DC ship grounding point > Branch Breakers > 14GA Triplex Marine Wire (White, Black Green) > 15A GFCI Outlets > Battery Charger/other AC loads


You will want an AC panel with a 30A main breaker, reverse polarity indicator and branch breakers such as (Blue Sea 8099 or similar)

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Last edited by Maine Sail; 11-24-2016 at 07:59 AM.
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post #29 of 46 Old 11-25-2016 Thread Starter
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

I hope everyone had a good turkey day. I borrowed a little time this morning, and updated my drawing. I think I've got all the bases covered here:

[IMG][/IMG]
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post #30 of 46 Old 11-25-2016
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

@g;
Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty225 View Post
I hope everyone had a good turkey day. I borrowed a little time this morning, and updated my drawing. I think I've got all the bases covered here:

[IMG][/IMG]

Where are the branch breakers? You can't have a 30A main breaker protecting 15A outlets. This would be like wiring your house outlets directly to the AC panels main breaker..

At this point I am going to strongly urge you to consult or hire a professional marine electrician.
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