"Not an electrician" needs wiring critique. - Page 4 - SailNet Community
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post #31 of 46 Old 11-25-2016 Thread Starter
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

Ok. Well, thanks for your time. I appreciate your input.
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post #32 of 46 Old 11-25-2016
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

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Ok. Well, thanks for your time. I appreciate your input.
The Blue Seas panels shown in post #27 or linked to at the bottom of post #28 are good choices. You have to have a 15 amp breaker protecting a 15 amp circuit - the outlet. The 30 amp breaker is not safe.

Brian
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post #33 of 46 Old 11-26-2016 Thread Starter
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

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The Blue Seas panels shown in post #27 or linked to at the bottom of post #28 are good choices. You have to have a 15 amp breaker protecting a 15 amp circuit - the outlet. The 30 amp breaker is not safe.
I think in my haste to post a undated drawing, I picked the wrong panel. Clearly, I need branch protection for the two 15a outlets.

I'll update the drawing tomorrow.
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post #34 of 46 Old 11-26-2016
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

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I think in my haste to post a undated drawing, I picked the wrong panel. Clearly, I need branch protection for the two 15a outlets.

I'll update the drawing tomorrow.
When I was rewiring my boat I went through the same process and was told also to hire an electrician also. By that time I had already worked through the bugs in my thought process and had come up with a working schematic. I found an electrical contractor on the outside that looked at my schematic and made one or two small tweaks to get my wiring perfect.

From what I see you are getting closer to a working understanding and a working wiring diagram. I still see some flaws in your system, some of it being overly complicated. One thing to consider is while all the wiring is connected and related, there are parts of them that are completely separate systems. My suggestion instead of creating one wiring diagram break your wiring down to separate branches. That way you can work out the details of the wiring diagrams for each of these pieces of the puzzle. You can also then wire them one at a time.

AC system
Battery Charger, Batteries, battery switch and DC electrical panel
Electrical panel and DC runs
Engine instruments and related wiring.

Jordan
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post #35 of 46 Old 11-26-2016
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

Having read back through this, I am going to have to agree with the fact you are making the AC side of the wiring way more complicated than it needs to be. Unless you are planning on operating a toaster oven and hair dryer at the same time with, you could probably get by with one AC 15A circuit for the whole boat. Look for a 30A main CB with two blanks for CBs for a future second run, but I think it is overkill. I would look at ways to avoid needing an inverter, like bringing a laptop or Ipad to watch movies. Inverters are inefficient and carrying a TV on a 27 foot boat seems like a waist of needed space.

The only rationale for needing an inverter on a small boat would be a blender or coffee maker and you would need to probably run the engine while operating these items.

Edit: I just went back to look at the diagram you have and it shows an outboard as your engine? I am under the impression the amount of electrical power you can expect from them is minimal, even more reason not to be spending your energy when on the hook frivolously. Unless you are going to install solar you should probably leave the inverter at home.

Jordan
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Last edited by jephotog; 11-26-2016 at 10:37 AM. Reason: More details
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post #36 of 46 Old 11-26-2016
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

I think you should downsize your expectations from this system. It's a 28 foot boat with an outboard. I am going to guess you will be spending at least $1-2000 to do this right if you do all the work yourself. You may sleep better at night but the boat will probably operate the same.

Suggestions for the DC schematic
  1. Loose the power posts, I wired two boats this last year and only needed them in one situation.
  2. There needs to be a fuse or circuit breaker protecting each run.
  • This is designed to protect the wire not the item at the end of the run.
  • The current protector should be as close to the power source as possible.
  • The wiring from the engine needs a fuse as close to the engine as possible. You may want to upsize this wire to maximise the current to the battery.
  • Put a MRBF fuse on each battery. Loose the current protection downstream. Blue Sea 5191 Terminal Fuse Block 30-300AMP - 5191 Blue Sea - Star Marine Depot
  • The negatives from the two grounds on the batterys should be joined together.
  • The bilge pump should be hard wired to the battery. You can put a switch inline to override the float switch.
  • Move the VHF to downstream from the DC switch panel.


On thing to keep in mind that this diagram is only a small portion of the process. Eventually you will have to buy a bunch of components, wire, connectors, and tools and figure out how to install it all. This took me at least 100 hours of labor to make this happen. The simpler you can make it the easier it will be to complete. If you design the system correctly you can go back and make it as complicated as you want.

Jordan
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

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[*]The wiring from the engine needs a fuse as close to the engine as possible. You may want to upsize this wire to maximise the current to the battery.
When wiring between a battery and any other item - engine starter, alternator, battery switch etc - the fuse should always be close to the battery end of the run. The battery is always the source that can cause the problem if there is a short circuit.

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post #38 of 46 Old 11-27-2016
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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

I have to admit it is the most complex wiring of a 28 footer with an outboard I have ever seen.

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Keth

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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

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When wiring between a battery and any other item - engine starter, alternator, battery switch etc - the fuse should always be close to the battery end of the run. The battery is always the source that can cause the problem if there is a short circuit.
My suggestion to him was to put a MRBF directly on the battery eliminating any chance of an overcurrent situation coming from the battery cables. Are you saying there is zero chance a malfunction in the alternator could create an over current situation?

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Re: "Not an electrician" needs wiring critique.

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My suggestion to him was to put a MRBF directly on the battery eliminating any chance of an overcurrent situation coming from the battery cables. Are you saying there is zero chance a malfunction in the alternator could create an over current situation?
Yes, an alternator is current limited to its designed maximum. A battery on the other hand isn't.

Brian
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