SIX weeks and zincs are TOAST - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 47 Old 10-20-2017
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Re: SIX weeks and zincs are TOAST

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Originally Posted by paulinnanaimo View Post
I have been cutting my own zincs for my OMC Saildrive.

I am not sure how boatpoker's reference to bonding or not supports the debate...for what it's worth, I couldn't find any aluminum anodes for a Bukh saildrive either.
Bonding is a critical element in the anti-corrosion fight along with type of anodes. Not surprised you can't find aluminum anodes for nearly extinct saildrives.

The hysterical laughter you hear as you drive a way in your"new" boat ..... is the seller.
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post #22 of 47 Old 10-20-2017
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Re: SIX weeks and zincs are TOAST

Okay then, let's forget about my antique OMC. How about this. You pick the make and year of saildrive; where does the owner get aluminum anodes for it? It's a simple question, stay on topic.
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post #23 of 47 Old 10-20-2017
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Re: SIX weeks and zincs are TOAST

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Okay then, let's forget about my antique OMC. How about this. You pick the make and year of saildrive; where does the owner get aluminum anodes for it? It's a simple question, stay on topic.
Start here .. www.boatzincs.com/yanmar-saildrive-aluminum.html

Or you could just use Google
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Last edited by boatpoker; 10-20-2017 at 10:07 PM.
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post #24 of 47 Old 10-21-2017
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Re: SIX weeks and zincs are TOAST

Okay, I've learned something. It appears that for owners who can find aluminum anodes that are compatible with their saildrive; they are probably a better option than zinc for salt water use.
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post #25 of 47 Old 10-21-2017
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Re: SIX weeks and zincs are TOAST

If the anodes do not sacrefice they do not protect properly.
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post #26 of 47 Old 11-09-2017
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Re: SIX weeks and zincs are TOAST

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If the anodes do not sacrefice they do not protect properly.
I tend to agree, isn't the point to use a more reactive metal?

Using aluminum to protect aluminum doesn't intuitively make much sense. Is there something I'm missing?
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post #27 of 47 Old 11-09-2017
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Re: SIX weeks and zincs are TOAST

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I tend to agree, isn't the point to use a more reactive metal?

Using aluminum to protect aluminum doesn't intuitively make much sense. Is there something I'm missing?
It is not "aluminum" it is an aluminum alloy including indium among other metals.
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post #28 of 47 Old 11-09-2017
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Re: SIX weeks and zincs are TOAST

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Originally Posted by Bernie Donoghue View Post
I tend to agree, isn't the point to use a more reactive metal?

Using aluminum to protect aluminum doesn't intuitively make much sense. Is there something I'm missing?
Aluminum Indium alloy not he same as the aluminum alloy used to make the saildrive or hull. newer technology then the old zine anodes
http://www.performancemetals.com/ima...m%20Anodes.pdf
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Re: SIX weeks and zincs are TOAST

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Originally Posted by MarkSF View Post
Similar problem - in the last 9 months or so I'm getting through both the shaft and prop zincs in 60 days. This is definitely faster than it was. So I'm sitting here wondering what has changed.

Two things I did around that time :

Replaced the battery charger with a Pro Nautic 1220P (this is on most of the time, when I leave the boat).

Replaced the A/C outlets with GFCIs, and added two (however, when I leave the boat, the outlets are off).

I was a little uncertain how to do the grounding on the charger. It has two, one for the charger itself, and one for the chassis. The main ground is connected to the boat ground bus. The case ground I connected to the through-hull bonding system, as that's how the old charger was. Is this the normal approach? This seemed to be the way the Pro Nautic manual suggested.

How do you know the difference between AC and DC leakage, by looking at the zincs?
Is the gauge of the bonding system wire large enough? That would be a concern for me.

WRT the chassis ground on the inverter/charger
https://www.jamestowndistributors.co....do?docId=1014
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post #30 of 47 Old 11-09-2017
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Re: SIX weeks and zincs are TOAST

How do you know the difference between AC and DC leakage, by looking at the zincs?

It had long been thought that AC did not cause any corrosion activity but that has been disproven, it does but it is so slow that you'd likely never notice. Leaking AC can kill you but unlikely it will cause any corrosion.

I've seen leaking DC cause propellers, shafts and rudders disappear within two weeks two weeks of an amateur "electrician" playing with his electrical system.

Galvanic corrosion is a much slower process.

The hysterical laughter you hear as you drive a way in your"new" boat ..... is the seller.
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