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post #11 of 13 Old 04-11-2019
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Re: Cube Fuse on a Distribution Bar

"I also wonder at the price spread. Less than $9 to more than $18 for brand name fuses."
That's an easy one. Why can I go to Payless and buy sneakers for $40 while Foot Locker has some name brand for $250?
You're paying partly for a name brand, presumably with a reputation and quality control, versus paying less for what are often overseas products made to looser tolerances. Maybe one explodes violently while the other less so. Maybe one takes 60 seconds at rated power to blow, while the other varies from 50-120. And sometimes, you just pay for pretty packaging, or distributors, or advertising. You have to play Alien Autopsy on a couple of them to find out.

On the fuse block location? If you are clear on the mounting and the way the circuit works...the fuse doesn't care where you locate it. There may be regulations or recommendations regarding where the fuse has to be located, or there may be covers that are designed to fit on distribution bars but not on battery posts. A robust fuse cover can be a very handy thing, when a 100+ amp fuse decides to fail explosively. "Primary power" battery fuses are very different from the little glass and plastic things used in distribution panels. Often for unseen reasons, like how they'll fail. (Explosively or promptly or simply with quiet dignity.(G)
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post #12 of 13 Old 04-11-2019 Thread Starter
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Re: Cube Fuse on a Distribution Bar

The cheaper ones are Eaton brand, probably the manufacturer of the Blue Sea ones at twice the price.
Same protection rating and designed for this application.
I'm just trying to get my head around the need for an additional piece of hardware between the MRBF and the busbar.
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post #13 of 13 Old 04-12-2019
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Re: Cube Fuse on a Distribution Bar

Originally Posted by nramsey View Post
I understand that, but the insulator on top does the same job. The stud is not connected directly to the cable. The current must go through the fuse. Just "upside down" but with the same result.
Insulating the stud from the base is more difficult than insulating the cable from the stud but I can't see any difference in the result.
yes you have it right you can have the stub insulated or the cable insulated from the stud

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