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post #21 of 27 Old 11-06-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: Beneteau shaft coupling

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Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
The shafts and couplings are usually milled and fitted and faced before they go on the boat. They remain as a pair until installed.
Suppose I take my shaft and coupling to the shop for fit&face, then take apart and reassemble on the boat. Can I still expect it to remain true?

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First they are fit (lap fit) then faced for true. You could lap fit yours but the face may still not be true, usually they are not....
Now that you mentioned lap fitting...any tricks to remove stuck shaft key?

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If you can press out the cutlass bearing the shaft will almost always clear a rudder... I remove shafts regularly that won't clear with the cutlass and when removed clear just fine...
I hope it would clear the rudder but it doesn't seem likely...the stern tube is 3 feet long and there is not a lot of play. I am still trying to figure out how to remove the bearing. The outside lip is destroyed and there is nothing to grab at.



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post #22 of 27 Old 11-06-2014
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Re: Beneteau shaft coupling

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I would love to do that but it would require dropping the rudder. In fact I am wondering if this is done on new boats at the factory? Probably not, at least not at Beneteau.
Having to drop the rudder to pull a shaft ???

Hmmm, that's another one for the Production Boat Head-Scratching Hall of Fame...

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post #23 of 27 Old 11-06-2014
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Re: Beneteau shaft coupling

I see this allot; "If i have to remove the rudder" So what! This is something (imo) we all need to know how to do/handle.

On my boat when we did the cutless bearing and PSS seal the hardest part of the job was digging into the ground to let the rudder post clear the bottom of the boat.

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post #24 of 27 Old 11-06-2014
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Re: Beneteau shaft coupling

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Originally Posted by skalashn View Post
Sorry pal, your theory is fascinating but it makes no sense. Both ends of the shaft are identical and tapered. Outboard end fits my Flexofold as well as original Beneteau prop perfectly. Inboard end fits original B coupling. The tapered bore of the coupling is the same as prop's. There are no set screws on the coupling and it is held in place by lock nut.

Anyone keen on using their head will realize this is a good way to warp the tranny flange and it takes 15 minutes to make a pressing plate from a chunk of steel with the same bolt pattern.
Puller is even better but you need more room.
On the matter of the shaft vis-a-vis duel tapered ends, my comments merely echo the response I rec'd from a friend who's family has owned and operated a major boatyard in Florida since the 1930's and has serviced "...many Bene's" (including my own) while I was there arranging for our next haul out. His comments were subsequently seconded by two separate sources, another marine engineer and a NAMS surveyor/engineer with 30+ years experience who posited the ill-fitting prop hub theory as an explanation.

My comments concerning extracting the shaft are per the 67 year old chief mechanic at Marine Diesel as to the method they've used, evidently successfully, when they didn't have enough space for a shaft ram assembly. He must have learned something during his career, no?

Last edited by svHyLyte; 11-06-2014 at 01:00 PM. Reason: Correct typo
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post #25 of 27 Old 11-07-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: Beneteau shaft coupling

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My comments concerning extracting the shaft are per the 67 year old chief mechanic at Marine Diesel as to the method they've used, evidently successfully, when they didn't have enough space for a shaft ram assembly. He must have learned something during his career, no?
No doubt the mechanics are using this method - they work on someone else's boats! Many would also use a slide hammer when you are not looking.
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post #26 of 27 Old 11-07-2014
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Re: Beneteau shaft coupling

Well ,that's a new one on me. Guess you can learn a lot hanging around with classy boats. In any case , push the shaft out by tightening a plate (the other flange? gotta be careful there) with a short plug or socket in between. Only back the nut off to flush with shaft end to protect threads. Even pressure all around. When she pops ,it's all over and you take the nut off.

Last edited by Capt Len; 11-07-2014 at 12:13 PM.
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Re: Beneteau shaft coupling

denise,
if you're in a good boatyard the ground will be compacted rock-solid so dropping the rudder requires raising the boat, often higher than the usual jackstand points, which means calling for the lift. $$. All it takes is money right?(G)

Might anyone dare suggest that EVERY joint, every connection, every fitting that may need to stay done, or get undone, needs antiseize or Loctite (as appropriate) on it? I've had that with exhaust fittings, once they were antiseized it became effortless to replace parts in the future. Instead of the perennial "Oh we had to cut away..." routine.

And going back to the original question of "how" I still swear by freezing instead of heating. Torches set things on fire or detemper metal. Pack 'em with dry ice and alcohol slush, or freeze them down with a CO2 bottle or other means, and stuck stuff gets unstuck pretty reliably. Costs more than a torch job, costs less than buying new parts.
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