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post #1 of 11 Old 05-17-2018 Thread Starter
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Grease eater

Our outboard had a respite ashore last year and became rather lazy. When we got it back it ran and still runs as well as it ever did, but it seems that the lubricant for the motor in the mounting bracket has hardened and the motor no longer turns at all easily, nor does it turn more than a few inches.
We have tried every product available that we know of, from PB Blaster to acetone to gasoline and nothing seems to eat out the old, dried up lubricant. Disassembly is not an option, so I'm asking if anyone knows any product that will eat away this old, hardened lubricant without eating the aluminum, in place?
Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 11 Old 05-17-2018
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Re: Grease eater

Try a degreasing solvent like TCE or PCE. These are chlorinated solvents which are very aggressive towards organics but harmless to metals.

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post #3 of 11 Old 05-17-2018
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Re: Grease eater

Capta-
Can you get a steam genny on it? Live steam will clean out almost anything. Scalding hot water with Liquid Tide detergent and a toothbrush will take out old hard Cosmoline. Neither one will harm paint or metal.
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post #4 of 11 Old 05-17-2018
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Re: Grease eater

Sounds more like corrosion to me.

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post #5 of 11 Old 05-17-2018
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Re: Grease eater

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Originally Posted by pdqaltair View Post
Sounds more like corrosion to me.
Too many times I have to service motors put away wet that did not see regular maintenance and the grease breaking down allowing the oil to separate and leak out leaves behind voids with just the crystallized pressure additive in them and of course the water the seeped in to fill the void. Usually it will be corrosion that will be the issue.

Some times you can break it with a buck shot filled rubber mallet adding fresh grease to all available fittings when available however many times you have to take the mount apart, remove the pivot pin, clean it, put fresh grease on the pin and reassemble. Replace any seals on the pivot shaft while your at it. If a cable steering system is involved release that before going too crazy as many times the steering cable systems themselves are what binds up and not the engine mount.

Disassembly will usually be the only real viable long term solution. We have boats with outboards that are spares used for coaches and officials during regatta's so this happens all the time even after a few months in storage and forcing it without cleaning it up and repairing things usually lasts a very short time and results in the added expense of replacing parts or fixing collision damage when the mount seizes again at the worst possible moment just when you have to avoid hitting something.
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post #6 of 11 Old 05-18-2018
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Re: Grease eater

Our Tohatsu 2 cycle 8 hp refused to turn on its steering axis last year. The steering tube (steering shaft) which is easily visible when the outboard is off the dinghy transom was quite rusted. The local dealer said that he could replace the $150 part, but because of the difficulty of removing a dozen or more stainless screws set into aluminum he estimated the labor at 10x that with his $100/hr rate. We bought a Yamaha and went to the Bahamas. On return I replaced the tube myself for a total of maybe $300 including the things I replaced as a matter of course while everything was apart. His labor estimate was spot on.

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Is your difficulty due to a rusting steel steering tube on a Tohatsu? A stainless steel replacement will cost you $10. It is a length of pipe.

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post #7 of 11 Old 05-18-2018 Thread Starter
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Re: Grease eater

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Originally Posted by wsmurdoch View Post

Is your difficulty due to a rusting steel steering tube on a Tohatsu? A stainless steel replacement will cost you $10. It is a length of pipe.

Bill Murdoch
Thanks for your input, but this is a Johnson, 11 years old and very heavily used in salt water. My fear is that disassembly will not be possible without significant damage to the engine re: SS bolts in aluminum.

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post #8 of 11 Old 05-18-2018
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Re: Grease eater

Your fear (and it was the outboard dealer's fear) is well founded. I had several of the screws or bolts stick. Some I got some to come apart by keeping them wet with vinegar for days, others by wetting them with hydrochloric acid, and two that defied everything and came out with significant damage which required re-drilling and re-tapping the holes. An impact wrench was part of the solution. It was frustrating and time consuming work.

Bill

Last edited by wsmurdoch; 05-18-2018 at 06:06 PM.
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post #9 of 11 Old 05-20-2018
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Re: Grease eater

You may find SaltAway may help with getting past any salt buildup that is hampering disassembly. We were amazed at how quickly it eats through hardened salt buildup in just a few minutes when flushing motors that were not being taken care of on a regular basis and we thought were lost causes.
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post #10 of 11 Old 05-20-2018
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Re: Grease eater

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaStar58 View Post
You may find SaltAway may help with getting past any salt buildup that is hampering disassembly. We were amazed at how quickly it eats through hardened salt buildup in just a few minutes when flushing motors that were not being taken care of on a regular basis and we thought were lost causes.
Salt-a-Way will eat the corrosion, but it will also eat the aluminum.

CLR is far more aluminum-safe and is preferred around outboards (side-by-side testing).

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