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post #11 of 16 Old 03-07-2014
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Re: Torque wrench

If you have to buy a 3/4" and will rarely use it. Harbor Freight tool, $80.
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post #12 of 16 Old 03-07-2014
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Re: Torque wrench

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Originally Posted by jgeissinger View Post
You can a torque wrench from any number of sources, Sears being a good one. However, be aware that whatever torque values you find for your size keels bolts and nuts is for Clean and Lubricated fasteners. Just tightening them as they are, in a generally semi-corrosive environment, where they have likely been untouched for years, will not give you anything like an accurate reading.
Would it be a good idea to remove all of the nuts or remove them one at a time to clean the threads before torquing to insure an accurate reading?
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post #13 of 16 Old 03-08-2014
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Re: Torque wrench

One at a time - you can do that in the water.

This is an instance where a cheapo torque wrench will be plenty good enough. Many, many keels have been tightened with nothing but a wrench and a long piece of pipe "until the suckers screamed".

Keel bolts aren't a situation like the main bearings on an engine where very precise torque is critical. A cheap wrench will give EVEN torque on the bolts, even if it isn't accurate to the Ft. Lb.

On the other hand, this is also a perfect situation for rented tools.
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post #14 of 16 Old 03-08-2014
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Re: Torque wrench

I did this job several years ago to fix the c&c smile. I bought a torque multiplier on ebay for the purpose. The correct torque is 300 ft lb. that's a lot of torque and you'll either need a torque multiplier or a BIG torque wrench. you'll need a deep well 1-1/2" socket on an extension. You'll either need 3/4" drive socket, extension and torque wrench, or, as I did torque multiplier on 1/2" torque wrench with 3/4" components elsewhere. You can do it in the water as suggested above, but if you can do it on the hard you can do a really complete job-
Loosen the nuts with the keel well-blocked, clean out the hull- keel joint and recaulk, then working one nut at a time, remove a nut and washer, clean out undre the washer, checking visible portion of bolts for integrity, and fill/caulk under, then replace washer and nut, loosely torque. After all nuts have been done, torque all together in steps like you would a cylinder head.
Not as good as dropping the keel, but a lot less work, and as my boat was fresh water it's whole life, everything was still sound.

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post #15 of 16 Old 04-07-2014
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Re: Torque wrench

Best to torque on the hard if possible with the keel supported. You want to measure only torque/twist/resistance on the keel bolts without the weight of the keel pulling against the nuts and washers. I suppose if you torque, re-torque and re-torque while lifting a loose keel in the water the readings may get more accurate as a keel is lifted into position. This may be too picky of a method as the keel should not be flopping like a flag under the boat. My boatyard says do it on the hard.
-CH
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post #16 of 16 Old 04-07-2014
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Re: Torque wrench

Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopJonB View Post
One at a time - you can do that in the water.

This is an instance where a cheapo torque wrench will be plenty good enough. Many, many keels have been tightened with nothing but a wrench and a long piece of pipe "until the suckers screamed".

Keel bolts aren't a situation like the main bearings on an engine where very precise torque is critical. A cheap wrench will give EVEN torque on the bolts, even if it isn't accurate to the Ft. Lb.

On the other hand, this is also a perfect situation for rented tools.
Yep. A cheapie will do just fine, actually better than the expensive clicker which will be more easily affected by corrosion. It is actually a tool you should have aboard if you ever have to do engine work. As in torquing any set of bolts, take 'em up little by little, alternating as you go. Agree that being corroded will not allow a good torque reading so get some PBS Blaster and free them up if possible before tightening.

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