Cetol Marine Finish Woes - Page 4 - SailNet Community
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post #31 of 35 Old 01-26-2016
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Re: Cetol Marine Finish Woes

No Minnewaska, I don't have the can with me but I believe it says not to thin. So, when did I start following directions??? At 45 bucks a can, I'm reading the label. The label says thick coat but I found that a thin coat was much better. Did not sag like when I started with the thick coat. Every experienced sailor at my marina had tried about 5 different methods over the years, I just picked Cetol to be my first. Several guys are now using Ace Hardware Spar Varnish, some Captains and some those 2 part varnishes. So, who knows. I'm committed now, so , I'll let you know as the years go by. One thing, varnishing bright work is TOUGH! Taping and stirring and crouching. And waiting for 24 hrs is a bitch! Dad gum, I don't wanna do this again next year. Think I'll sew some hatch covers and rail covers this month! LOL Kevin
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post #32 of 35 Old 01-26-2016
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Re: Cetol Marine Finish Woes

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...Dad gum, I don't wanna do this again next year. Think I'll sew some hatch covers and rail covers this month! LOL Kevin
Kevin--

We have been using Cetol here in southwest Florida for about the last 7 years. As long as one keeps up with the clear coat, refinishing is unnecessary. A light buffing with a 3M Scratch pad and a single clear coat at roughly 6 - 9 month intervals is all that's necessary (covers will help however). Invariably, some of the bright work will be damaged. For that I have a couple of my wife's discarded finger nail polish bottles (with brush applicators). One of "Natural Teak" base coat and one of Clear coat. With these I can make quick repairs of scratches/divots in the finish when they occur. (We use the "5 Foot Rule"--if it looks good from 5 feet away, it's good enough.) Eventually one does have to remove the old finish and start over. I have found that the best way to remove old Cetol is with a cabinet scraper and, when necessary, a modest application of heat (while I have a heat gun, I also have an old hair dryer that, on high, puts out enough heat to soften the old finish for removal without the danger of singing the underlying wood. A good sanding with 180, followed by 320, followed by a good wipe down with lint free cloths and 90% alcohol from the pharmacy seem to be all that's necessary in re: preparation. I use a single coat of "Natural Teak" followed by three coats of Clear seems to get us back in business pretty quickly. Tip: Use a high quality natural bristle brush to apply the finish. While costly, the results are notably better than can be achieved with a disposable brush or foam brush. Cleaning the brush thoroughly with brush cleaner after use and storing it wrapped in wax paper in a zip-lock bag will preserve the brush for many years.

FWIW...

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post #33 of 35 Old 01-26-2016
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Re: Cetol Marine Finish Woes

Hey HyLyte, I did most of that. Used stripper from Home Depot, then 2 part teak cleaner, like that stuff, looks like fresh sawn wood. Sand a little, 3 coats per directions and 2 coats of gloss. But if you are doing well with 1 and 3 then I might try that next time. Used a china boar bristle brush and I clean them well. I cleaned the Natural Teak brush with acetone but when I used acetone for the gloss brush, it got all sticky and wads of stuff built up on the brush. I didn't want to buy the 29 dollar a quart Special thinner 216 recommended. The ingredients were 75 percent xylene and 25 benzene something or other, so I got some xylene for 8 bucks a quart at HD and that worked great. And I wrap my brushes like you say. I should of sanded more but I didn't want to take off too much wood. All in all it looks great. It was so shabby since I bought the boat a year and a half ago, it looks sweet now. Gotta word the next three days, gonna rain anyway here in Cocoa,Fl. Ought to have it finished next week. Appreciate the guidance from everyone. I'll post a pic when it's done. Kevin
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post #34 of 35 Old 01-26-2016
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Re: Cetol Marine Finish Woes

Guess I'm gonna have to do those 70 feet of toe rail next! Kevin
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post #35 of 35 Old 01-27-2016
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Re: Cetol Marine Finish Woes

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Originally Posted by FloridaBoy View Post
Guess I'm gonna have to do those 70 feet of toe rail next! Kevin
After years of battling the toe rail, I finally stripped it back to bare and let it grey. I think it's the absolute toughest to keep the brightwork in good shape. It's not because it gets kicked, it's because it's nearly impossible to seal the edges against the deck and keep water from getting behind the finish. Same if you have hardware attached. Getting water under any brightwork is a certain blister and repair.

All my brightwork is now in the cockpit, where it remains relatively covered.


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In the harsh marine environment, something is always in need of repair. Margaritas fix everything.
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