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post #21 of 33 Old 01-02-2015 Thread Starter
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Re: Cockpit and Deck Painting Advice

Plan has altered after some sanding. Focusing on the cockpit for now.

The old paint is coming off nicely with 80 grit. New plan is to use Interlux Perfection for the glossy portions. The current "gentle" non-skid surfaces such as those on the coamings and cockpit seats will be sanded down and will be resurfaces with Kiwi Grip. I think these were a patterned paint and not fiberglassed patterns.

I wanted to try to save the more aggressive diamond non-skid pattern on the cockpit floor but after some sanding and wire brushing I think resurfacing is in order. Going to use Kiwi Grip to resurface the diamond non-skid.

Also going remove more hardware than I originally thought. Just too hard to sand and might as well rebed. Just ordered two rolls of buytl tape from MaineSail

Has anyone used an oscillating tool to sand in the tight area like corners and where surface planes meet? I really hate the idea of hand sanding...

Josh
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Re: Cockpit and Deck Painting Advice

I can tell you that the use of power sanders can lead to more work in the long run due to re-fairing requirements if you've been a bit too aggressive, esp when removing old paint.

Haven't used our oscillating tool as a sander yet, probably OK but again would worry about accidentally putting 'divots' in the surface that aren't there now...

Ron

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".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
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post #23 of 33 Old 01-02-2015
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Re: Cockpit and Deck Painting Advice

I was gonna leave this one alone, but this is one area where I have a fair degree of first hand knowledge.

First and foremost, Kiwi Grip is the only way to go with the non-skid. This stuff if absolutely fantastic, probably the best, most aggressive non-skid I've come across is 50 years. There's a good reason all the high end race boats are using it - you WILL NOT slip. You damned well don't want to drag your knuckles, knees or elbows over this stuff, but you will never have to worry about slipping, even on a deck soaked with fish slime.

Preparation is very simple. No sanding involved. Just scrub the Hell out of the deck with Comet Cleanser, run thoroughly and allow it to dry for a day. Next day, wipe the deck with denatured alcohol and don't be stingy with it. It will dry almost instantly.

The most difficult part is the masking. This will take teamwork and coordination. After the deck is masked off, the paint is applied by scooping it out with a ladle, then spreading it with a notched trowel with 1/8-inch notches, similar to a trowel that would be used to spread tile cement or grout. Spread the paint evenly, then it gets rolled with a texturized roller, called a Loopy Goopy Roller. One comes with each gallon of paint. This process must be done very quickly as the paint will almost dry while it's being applied. As soon as the texture is applied, someone must immediately remove the masking tape or the edges of the paint will be lifted in the process. DO NOT DELAY!

I used 2-part epoxy paint for all the slick surfaces. I sanded everything with a 160-gritt sand paper, then vacuumed all surfaces, wiped them with a tack rag, then wiped them again with denatured alcohol. This is very important. The paint was applied with a slick roller and tipped with a boar's hair brush. (Figure on that expensive brush as a throwaway.) I allowed the first coat to dry one day, then want back, sanded the finish lightly with 400-grit, repeated the cleaning process, then repeated the painting process. It worked out fine, other than a couple runs that I managed to miss. I used Pettit Snow White and white non-skid. Everyone thinks the boat looks brand new now.

The only folks that I know that have had problems with the Kiwi Grip were those that did not follow the instructions, especially drying everything out with denatured alcohol. That is a very important step.



Good luck,

Gary
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post #24 of 33 Old 01-25-2015 Thread Starter
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Re: Cockpit and Deck Painting Advice

Making progress on the sanding. When I remove deck hardware, any suggestions for temporarily plugging fastener holes? The holes are exposed to Chesapeake winter weather and don't want more leaks down below or water in the holes. Almost certainly weeks of time between removal and putting the deck hardware back

Josh
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post #25 of 33 Old 01-26-2015
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Re: Cockpit and Deck Painting Advice

Duct tape or you could use hot glue.

Eric
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Re: Cockpit and Deck Painting Advice

Update:
Most of the cockpit is sanded to 80 grit smooth. Moving on to 120 grit. Will remove deck hardware and hot those spots with 80/120. Have two rolls of butyl ready for rebedding and plan to countersink ala Mainesail's approach.

Going with two part Interlux for shiny and flat deck portions, KiwiGrip for cockpit floor, and KiwiGrip for cockpit nonskid but rolled with a less aggressive roller.

I don't suspect any wetness in fastener holes but thinking about potting them with epoxy before rebed.

Josh
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Re: Cockpit and Deck Painting Advice

One more question:

Is there a recommended ordering between gloss, flat, and non-skid? I recall reading about an ordering somewhere

Josh
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Re: Cockpit and Deck Painting Advice

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Originally Posted by engineer_sailor View Post
One more question:

Is there a recommended ordering between gloss, flat, and non-skid? I recall reading about an ordering somewhere

Josh
I'd recommend ordering Gloss if you want shiny, don't see any time you'd want to order flat, and you should order Non-skid for anywhere that you expect to have to need 'traction' on a wet deck...

Sorry, but seriously, not quite sure what you're asking....

Ron

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Re: Cockpit and Deck Painting Advice

If you are asking about the order of application, apply the gloss first, followed by the non-skid. By doing things in this order, you have very little masking to do when applying the gloss. The masking comes with the application of the non-skid.

Good luck,

Gary
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Re: Cockpit and Deck Painting Advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by travlineasy View Post
If you are asking about the order of application, apply the gloss first, followed by the non-skid. By doing things in this order, you have very little masking to do when applying the gloss. The masking comes with the application of the non-skid.

Good luck,

Gary
Good catch, Gary... must be what he meant. I didn't get that.... and you're right. I did mask both times, (defined the nonskid, sprayed around it, then remasked and sprayed the NS using Awlgrip and Griptex,) but ended up with visible double mask lines in places.. minor, but annoying to me.

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
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