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post #1 of 8 Old 06-27-2015 Thread Starter
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Applying Cetol Natural Marine Teak

The PO of my Pearson 35 used Cetol on the teak. Overall "most" of the Cetol has held up. There are some places that the Cetol has peeled a bit. Do i have to sand ALL the teak to reapply Cetol or can i just sand the "bad spots" and apply Cetol over the entire section to be painted.
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post #2 of 8 Old 06-27-2015
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Re: Applying Cetol Natural Marine Teak

I use Cetol light . My friend just finished a job with the natural . If you know for sure that you have natural then I would say yes concentrate on the real bad spots and paint them (2 coats) with Cetol and then sand the entire , and then one coat . I do that , I call it my patch job .
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post #3 of 8 Old 06-27-2015
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Re: Applying Cetol Natural Marine Teak

I've never had much luck in making a patch repair to the cetol. Last year I decided to enlarge the repair area by removing much of the good cetol and starting fresh. I applied 3 coats of the natural and then 2 coats of the gloss. I also applied a maintenance gloss coat to the adjacent area that joined the repair area. There was quite a bit of contrast between the two areas, however this year the contrast is not as great and it has turned out better than just making a small area repair even if it is more work.
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post #4 of 8 Old 06-27-2015
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Re: Applying Cetol Natural Marine Teak

If its only a few spots, that should work. I would scape then sand sand the bad spots followed by a coat or two on the bare areas. Then a light sand on everything followed by a coat on everything.
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post #5 of 8 Old 06-27-2015
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Re: Applying Cetol Natural Marine Teak

It's worth a shot, have had mixed success myself. And that's assuming this is only for small touch up areas, not anything major. Take it back well into the 'good' finish and follow JimsCal's instructions making sure to scuff up the coats on the mating finish. Do you know if the PO put a gloss coat on top of the Natural Marine? I do 3 + 3 or 4, and it makes maintenance much easier as the gloss takes the abuse and requires refinishing.
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post #6 of 8 Old 06-28-2015
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Re: Applying Cetol Natural Marine Teak

Pearson mostly used Iroko instead of teak. Iroko is a actually a most beautiful soft wood; and, is now an endangered species (?) and is next to impossible to find when replacing.

The best treatment for Iroko, which doesnt 'hold' most coatings, is usually oil finishes .... or heavy/many coatings of 'resinated' (varnish added) oil finishes which are applied like varnish and not wiped. Downside with oil coatings is that they dont last very long if not applied 'thick', and they do eventually turn very dark, and when applied 'thick' they take a long time to 'cure'. The worst feature of Iroko is that unless protected by coatings with 'heavy' UV filters, it is easily and deeply damaged by UV.
Oil finishes are easily removed by soaking with triSodiumPhosphate-TSP.
MaryKate Nu-Teak Oil

Last edited by RichH; 06-28-2015 at 12:19 PM.
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post #7 of 8 Old 06-30-2015
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Re: Applying Cetol Natural Marine Teak

The second time around with Cetol results in a mostly boring brown paint like finish. If you want any wood look at all you need to sand it down. Fortunately a Cetol finish is easy to sand off.

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post #8 of 8 Old 06-30-2015
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Re: Applying Cetol Natural Marine Teak

Just leave it alone and let it weather off. Then take the cento, throw it in the bin and enjoy the natural silver of weathers teak. It will last longer and work better, go sailing.


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