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post #251 of 296 Old 11-24-2015
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Re: Refurbishing CCA boats

The Admiral also admires the flag blue boats. I have warned her that even here in CT, it gets hot enough to make a dark-hulled boat uncomfortable. And any imperfections in the hull surface really show up under a dark paint. While I agree that few things look better than a CCA-style hull in flag blue, it just ain't gonna happen for me: too much prep work, and too hot!
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post #252 of 296 Old 11-24-2015
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Re: Refurbishing CCA boats

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Our last boat was in Whisper Grey with black striping.. kind of neat because at a distance it looked more or less white, but alongside the other 'bleach bottles' it stood out.
A little darker, but this is a nice grey. Brushed on one part enamel.

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Tom Young sailing a 1961 38' Alden Challenger, CHRISTMAS out of
Rockport, Maine.
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post #253 of 296 Old 11-24-2015
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Re: Refurbishing CCA boats

No photos currently. There is a Vanguard website where about 400 owners catalog there various restoration efforts. I would caution that painting it blue does make the interior insufferably hot. Even in New England. I insulated my interior as I was living aboard, but I'd not consider painting an uninsulated boat black or blue. Think 100 degrees in the cabin if not insulated.
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Re: Refurbishing CCA boats

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I will start a new post if anyone is interested in what will be a long term restoration of my C-50...with some as bought pictures to tease ya'll with.
Absolutely.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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post #255 of 296 Old 11-25-2015
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Re: Refurbishing CCA boats

This is my simple set up for painting the topsides. This is one coat of white Easy Poxy:I've just applied red boot top and cove. This year, I went with straight semi-gloss. I'll probably go back to a 50/50 mix of semi and gloss.

Taping off is a large part of the job. Believe it or not, the actual sanding with 220 in a 6" RO sander and the painting, doesn't take that long.

I thin the paint and with a foam roller and a good brush, I'll roll and tip down one side, re-set the staging, and roll and tip the other in about 3 hours of pleasant(if I thinned correctly and the weather cooperates).

Usually, about 3' of area is what gets rolled-tipped, then move down the staging. The trick or knack is in the thinning, the timing and the airs effect on the paint.

Looking at this, I can see why the wooden boat style often includes no boot top and sometimes the cove stripe(if there is one) gets painted the same as the body. The reason; much less work to be done.



One important thing I've learned. I don't get too hung up on perfection in the boatyard. I still get a run-sag or two. And working outside, a few bugs will land in the paint, some bozo will drive by at 30 mph, etc.

Don't drive yourself crazy(unless you're a perfectionist). Once the boat is launched, there is no angle to see the same detail in the finish. The light, reflected off the water, hides most everything. And there's always next time, to do a better job.

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Tom Young sailing a 1961 38' Alden Challenger, CHRISTMAS out of
Rockport, Maine.
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post #256 of 296 Old 11-25-2015
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Re: Refurbishing CCA boats

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This is my simple set up for painting the topsides. This is one coat of white Easy Poxy:I've just applied red boot top and cove. This year, I went with straight semi-gloss. I'll probably go back to a 50/50 mix of semi and gloss.

Taping off is a large part of the job. Believe it or not, the actual sanding with 220 in a 6" RO sander and the painting, doesn't take that long.

I thin the paint and with a foam roller and a good brush, I'll roll and tip down one side, re-set the staging, and roll and tip the other in about 3 hours of pleasant(if I thinned correctly and the weather cooperates).

Usually, about 3' of area is what gets rolled-tipped, then move down the staging. The trick or knack is in the thinning, the timing and the airs effect on the paint.

Looking at this, I can see why the wooden boat style often includes no boot top and sometimes the cove stripe(if there is one) gets painted the same as the body. The reason; much less work to be done.



One important thing I've learned. I don't get too hung up on perfection in the boatyard. I still get a run-sag or two. And working outside, a few bugs will land in the paint, some bozo will drive by at 30 mph, etc.

Don't drive yourself crazy(unless you're a perfectionist). Once the boat is launched, there is no angle to see the same detail in the finish. The light, reflected off the water, hides most everything. And there's always next time, to do a better job.

While the paint may not be perfect, the shape and look sure is! You are getting me excited about spring work, as I was really dreading the painting, as most magazines make it sound like a real chore. I think the deck is likely harder as it is not flat with lots of bends and curves. I am thinking I will use a lot of Kiwi grip on the deck, as it will hide a lot of imperfections.

Anyone have any experience with Total Boat wet edge. Not sure who makes it for them, as I doubt the make it themselves. Jamestown seems to have good support if I run into any issues. Pearl grey looks nice in the Pettit.
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post #257 of 296 Old 11-25-2015
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Re: Refurbishing CCA boats

"Far from perfect, but perfect from afar".... the DIYer's mantra
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Re: Refurbishing CCA boats

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"Far from perfect, but perfect from afar".... the DIYer's mantra
I recall that being a buddy's Saturday night criteria in college....
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post #259 of 296 Old 11-25-2015
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Re: Refurbishing CCA boats

We need a moratorium on spring commissioning references, I'm going to want to paint and relaunch in December! I will add to Tom's description of painting though. Early morning is best just after the dew has evaporated off the hull, but before it heats up in the sun. Have an old piece plate glass or a mirror to roll and tip as a test to see what ratio of thinner gives the best flow. Properly thinned, the two part urethanes will flow almost like baby oil and tipping it will allow it to flatten any roller marks. I rolled a three foot section then tipped as I moved down the staging. Also, you want staging down one whole side because you don't want to start moving your platform halfway through the process-the solvent will flash or the hull will warm in the sun and then you have a mess on your hands. Roll on horizontally and tipped vertically. I use a foam brush and get great results. It's not uncommon to need to adjust the mix as the paint pail gets less full. The solvent flashes off so that the remaining paint drags a bit, in which case its time to thin a little more.

The painting takes me twenty minutes a side on my 32 foot not worth restoring Vanguard. The initial prep for the base primer took....many days. My gel coat was crazed and required sealing with epoxy before priming. That and the 50 years of accumulated nicks and dings took a long time to repair, but once done subsequent finish work is a snap.
Jim
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post #260 of 296 Old 11-25-2015
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Re: Refurbishing CCA boats

In one of Jamestown's videos they suggest having the yard putting the boat in North-South orientation, that way in the morning one side is in the shade, then later that afternoon the other side is.

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