Powering Bilge at Mooring Ball/Power Question - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 41 Old 11-03-2015
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Re: Powering Bilge at Mooring Ball/Power Question

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Originally Posted by paulk View Post
Someone who leaves the automatic bilge pump on might not realize they have a leak until the pump breaks or the battery runs down.
That's just crazy thinking. If you normally have a dry bilge and get a leak and the pump runs, your bilge wouldn't be dry after. Meanwhile if you have a leak YOU WANT THE PUMP TO RUN!

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post #22 of 41 Old 11-03-2015
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Yea, if you're worried about not knowing if the pump is running, put a cycle counter on it. Meanwhile with an auto pump, you will not have a sunk boat, or a boat full of water with ruined floors and interior, believe me, my cabin sole needs refinished now because of a perfect storm of events that would not have mattered if my rule auto bilge pump was functioning correctly (these new style ones are garbage!) .
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post #23 of 41 Old 11-03-2015 Thread Starter
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Re: Powering Bilge at Mooring Ball/Power Question

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That is more than enough, unless you think you are going to have some major leaks. I would put a little solar panel on there just to keep it topped off. You want to keep them up above 60% for sure.

15 Watt, 12 Volt Solar Panel

Also if it doesn't power the engine, get a golf cart battery, they are made to be drained really far and recharged. Otherwise just a standard dual purpose Marine battery.
Sorry I've been MIA. Thanks for the reply. I was thinking a 20 Watt panel, this one is pretty cheap and would probably do the trick though.

Thanks for your help!
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Re: Powering Bilge at Mooring Ball/Power Question

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Originally Posted by RobGallagher View Post
If you are on a mooring and worried about leaks, close your seacocks if possible. A really bad leak, unattended, at 10PM, will probably result in a sunk boat regardless of your battery bank.

If you are really worried, a bilge alarm and/or online monitoring system is probably what you need.
I'm not that concerned. It is just an old boat that will likely be unattended for days at a time. The piece of mind of a pump would just be nice. I'll have insurance if the thing does sink.
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Re: Powering Bilge at Mooring Ball/Power Question

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Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post
I just posted this in the electrical forum.


I still have not finished it, but it is already the best reference on the topic that I have seen.
I will check both of those out. Thanks!
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Re: Powering Bilge at Mooring Ball/Power Question

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Originally Posted by JimsCAL View Post
Since it sounds like the boat you are considering doesn't currently have a battery, I suspect it is smaller and powered by an outboard. For that kind of use, a single group 27 is fine. It will run your lights and VHF radio and charge your phone. A small 10 to 30 watt solar panel should have no trouble keeping the battery charged while on the mooring. Two suggestions: get a deep cycle (not a starting) battery, and get a controller for the solar panel to avoid overcharging the battery.

FWIW I keep my boat on a mooring and a 20 watt panel keeps my two Group 31 batteries topped off just fine.
It is a 29 footer with an inboard. It just doesn't currently have a battery or running engine for that matter.

I was planning on both a deep cycle and a controller.

How bit is your boat, if you don't mind me asking. The shop was suggesting a Group 27, I'm not sure if I will need more. It really has minimal electronics right now. I'm just worried about a bilge pump and phones and the like when I'm on it. Plus maybe a small laptop from time to time (If I decide to work from the boat vs work from home).
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post #27 of 41 Old 11-03-2015
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Re: Powering Bilge at Mooring Ball/Power Question

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Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
I'm not that concerned. It is just an old boat that will likely be unattended for days at a time. The piece of mind of a pump would just be nice. I'll have insurance if the thing does sink.
Closing seacocks is going to be your best bet. I'm not saying not to install a bilge pump...

It's just the time factor if a leak does occur.

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post #28 of 41 Old 11-03-2015
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Re: Powering Bilge at Mooring Ball/Power Question

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How bit is your boat, if you don't mind me asking. The shop was suggesting a Group 27, I'm not sure if I will need more.
The only downside to bigger is a little larger footprint and little more cost. But in the end getting too small a battery is 100% waste of time and money.

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post #29 of 41 Old 11-03-2015
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Re: Powering Bilge at Mooring Ball/Power Question

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Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
It is a 29 footer with an inboard. It just doesn't currently have a battery or running engine for that matter.

I was planning on both a deep cycle and a controller.

How bit is your boat, if you don't mind me asking. The shop was suggesting a Group 27, I'm not sure if I will need more. It really has minimal electronics right now. I'm just worried about a bilge pump and phones and the like when I'm on it. Plus maybe a small laptop from time to time (If I decide to work from the boat vs work from home).
My boat is a 33-footer with a Yanmar diesel. My previous boat was a 30 footer and I had two Group 27s. With an inboard, you really need two batteries. One is in use and the other kept fully charged to make sure you can start the engine.
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post #30 of 41 Old 11-04-2015 Thread Starter
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Re: Powering Bilge at Mooring Ball/Power Question

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Originally Posted by JimsCAL View Post
My boat is a 33-footer with a Yanmar diesel. My previous boat was a 30 footer and I had two Group 27s. With an inboard, you really need two batteries. One is in use and the other kept fully charged to make sure you can start the engine.
Yeah, I was going to get one Group 27 and then one dedicated starter battery for the engine.
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