Awlgrip, print through, and gel coat degradation - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 16 Old 12-24-2015
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Re: Awlgrip, print through, and gel coat degradation

You can board-out all you want, and the print-through 'bumps' will only return; unless you keep the boat in a barn and out of the heating affects of sunlight. :-(
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post #12 of 16 Old 12-24-2015
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Re: Awlgrip, print through, and gel coat degradation

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You can board-out all you want, and the print-through 'bumps' will only return; unless you keep the boat in a barn and out of the heating affects of sunlight. :-(
Sure, but paint doesn't last forever. Fair and board again the next time.

While I agree some will return, in my experience it's slow and less pronounced.


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post #13 of 16 Old 12-24-2015 Thread Starter
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Re: Awlgrip, print through, and gel coat degradation

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Craig.. Awlgrip's Whisper Grey is an option... light enough to avoid the issues mentioned, different enough to stand out among the bleach bottles.
Whisper Grey might work. The deck and boot top are Signal White. That might look good with a grey hull.

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post #14 of 16 Old 12-24-2015
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Re: Awlgrip, print through, and gel coat degradation

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Good advise from your AWLGRIP painter.

"Dark" hulls NEED an extra thick matting layer to prevent 'print-through' of the structural roving beneath the matting layer and cosmetic gelcoat, especially those hulls made with (hand laid) resin rich layups.
Especially boats constructed of the old-fashioned styrene based resins, print through is a real problem when changing from white/light to a dark painted hull; the styrene based resin never 'fully' cures (inverse exponential curing) and the repetitive thermal cycling of the hull in sunlight causes 'the bumps' over several years. Even the vinyl ester based resins will eventually show the same results; but to a lesser extent and over a longer period of time.
It doesnt matter how 'fair' the hull is before painting as if you change from a 'white/light' colored hull and paint it with a dark coating, the hull doesnt have that 'extra-thick matting layer needed for a 'dark' color, it will eventually over time look like it has a severe skin disease - 'the bumps'.
Just take a walk through any marina yard and examine any hull that has been painted 'dark', and observe the progression of print-through of the structural roving to the surface ---- surface BUMPS!!!!!

Rx: if the boat doesnt already have that extra thick matting layer needed for a 'dark' colored hull ....... expect that the dazzling, costly paint job will have to be totally re-done in a few years.
I was advised by my builder exactly as RichH as advised. Since we like dark green, extra thick matt. Also, from experience repainting previous boats, the darker the color, the more unforgiving the fairing job is, unless you like fun house mirrors.
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post #15 of 16 Old 12-26-2015
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Re: Awlgrip, print through, and gel coat degradation

All this is very true. I do agree with everything (nearly) what Rich has stated.

But these bumps, matrix and everting is very visible when on the hard. The light from the sun is above you, you yourself is with your very two feet on the ground - every unevenness is easily seen, in particular in dark colours.
In the water is an other thing altogether: The viewer and the light (from the sun ...) are both higher up then the topsides. irregularities are not at all as visible. Sunrays are reflectied in the small waves and then in the topsides - it all looks nice.

Apart from that, dark green is difficult. As dark blue is. "chalking" becomes very visible.

AFAIK AWLGRIP should not be polished ... so there is no maintenance after some years.

/J
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post #16 of 16 Old 12-26-2015
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Re: Awlgrip, print through, and gel coat degradation

Awlgrip should not be polished, particularly by an amateur. Alexseal can be (new formula from the inventor of Awlgrip).


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