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post #11 of 20 Old 02-08-2016
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Re: Stuck Thru Hull Valve - Help Wanted!

Loosen the nut a 1/2 turn or so on the other side of the handle, then use a short piece of pipe on the handle for leverage. Make small movements back and forth increasing throw slightly each time. It may be seized, so if you don't feel movement with reasonable force (you decide), wait 'til next haulout. You might be able to do it with just the heel of your palm if you're not a sissy boy. ;^)

Good luck,

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Re: Stuck Thru Hull Valve - Help Wanted!

The attachment appears to be a 'tapered plug valve' an old fashioned, very robust, and EASILY rebuildable through hull valve, usually made of 'quality' bronze. The 'tapered plug' portion should be 'greased' yearly (with WATERPROOF silicone grease) or these valves will usually seize.

To 'release' and if the plug, etc. are not severely pitted ....
1. loosen the large NUT on the 'small side' of the plug.
2. use a block of hard wood against the nut 'screwed back' to be 'level' with the end of the threads
3. put a MASS of heavy weight against body of the valve on the side of plug which is larger .... 8lb. head from a sledge hammer, large 'masonry hammer' etc. This to 'resist' any 'motion' of valve when you do #4
4. Take a medium weight hammer, and sharply 'strike' the wood held over the threads (protected by the loosened nut) while holding the mass from the 'other side' of the valve. 99% of the time a sharp 'rap' with a hammer will 'spring' the plug loose.
4a. If the surfaces of the either the plug or the 'barrel' are severely corroded pitted, the valve will now leak/drip.
5. DO NOT put a lot of pressure on that HANDLE, as you will risk breaking it off .... use the hammer on small end of the 'plug'.
6. Once the plug is loose, look for a large cap screw on the side of the body of the valve. Thats where you can add a bit of waterproof grease until you later do a complete maintenance/repair/rebuild job when you haul the boat. The 'grease' is what makes the 'precise' seal to keep the water inside the valve.
7. Don't remove the plug from the barrel while the boat is in the water ..... or 'in come de ocean'.

To repair/rebuild:
1. Remove the plug from the valve. (boat on the hard).
2. Go to an automotive supply store that caters to 'auto-mechanics'
3. Purchase a small quantity of COARSE valve grinding compound and a small quantity of FINE valve grinding compound.
4. Make a water/grinding 'slurry' and apply to the internal mating surfaces.
5. Rotate the plug with compound applied until the inner surfaces are clean, bright, and without pits and other surface defects.
6. Apply waterproof silicone grease to the plug, insert it and rotate it to insure even distribution of the 'grease'
7. Replace the 'nut', but with 'just enough' tightening so that the plug 'easily' turns and all leakage stops. Come back in several days and retighten but not too much 'strain' or you'll seize the valve (but a sharp whack with a hammer will free it ... but it will need 're-greasing').

Note - when first inspecting or during 'grinding' or other repair - if you denote any 'red' / reddish color to the valve in any place, it means that bronze has had its wee bit zinc used up (as an anode) and the valve has been weakened metallurgically and SHOULD be condemned. An american made bronze valve during that era had very little zinc; asian made bronze (even today) will have relatively high amount of zinc (for 'easy machinability') and this zinc content is easily extracted by 'electrolysis'.

hope this helps.
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Last edited by RichH; 02-08-2016 at 01:23 PM.
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Re: Stuck Thru Hull Valve - Help Wanted!

Originally Posted by Dave Tersch View Post
BTW What's meant by "wasp waisted"?
When the center of the cone - where the opening/closing is controlled - gets corroded it can get worn down to the point where it won't seal even in the closed position - the image in post 10 shows the shape.

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Re: Stuck Thru Hull Valve - Help Wanted!

Originally Posted by Brent Swain View Post
I can think of several ways .Then I think of how much you have attacked my posts. Then I thought "He claims to have all the answers. Let him figure it out.?
Well considering his only two posts are right here in this thread, I think you may have gone off the deep end.

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Re: Stuck Thru Hull Valve - Help Wanted!

If boat out of water have had luck just taking off hose. Flushing junk out of inside and cleaning best I could then pouring in WD, liquid wrench or like product. Come back and light tap handle back and forth now and again. In a week or two able to dissemble using no force. Then lightly compound as outlined. Grease and re assemble. If not sure about it. Hose clamp short bit of hose and fill with colored water. Plug outside with paper towel. Wait a week. If any thing comes out replace the sucker.

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Re: Stuck Thru Hull Valve - Help Wanted!

Nice post RichH. Well said.

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Re: Stuck Thru Hull Valve - Help Wanted!

Originally Posted by Bleemus View Post
Nice post RichH. Well said.

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Yup, he definitely went above and beyond. If I wasn't a sociopath I'd be a little embarrassed with my post.

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Re: Stuck Thru Hull Valve - Help Wanted!

I wouldn't screw with this until it's out of the water! it's the cockpit drain and it's not leaking. Do it once, when you can do it right, as per Rich's post.

Break something, while you're in the water and then you've created an emergency. my 2 cents.
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post #19 of 20 Old 02-09-2016
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Re: Stuck Thru Hull Valve - Help Wanted!

One more vote for do it on the hard.

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post #20 of 20 Old 02-09-2016
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Re: Stuck Thru Hull Valve - Help Wanted!

Despite the naysayers, it can easily be replaced while in the water. I did the exact thing two months ago with my cockpit drain valve. On mine, the handle literally had broken off, stuck open. I too thought it had to be pulled out, but a buddy told me it was easy to do in the slip - he had replaced his while on a passage to the Cook Islands last year.

The process was pretty simple - get the new valve prepped and ready to go and lay it right next to the through hull, disconnect the hose at the top clamp (where it is above the waterline), start unscrewing the valve. When the valve finally unscrews, put the palm of your hand over the through hull to stop water - you will maybe get 1/2 cup of water in your bilge, and no, there is not much pressure to the water coming out, you can easily put your hand on it. Grab the new valve, remove your hand and quickly put the other valve on and start screwing it in.

This worked great for me and I was amazed at how easy it was - got maybe 1/2 cup of water in the bilge throughout the whole procedure. I did have wooden plugs laid out, at the ready in case something would go wrong. I suppose if you think the old valve is worth rebuilding, you could simply buy a screw-on cap instead of a new valve, and cap it while you rebuild the valve, and then reinstall the valve using the same procedure.

I was glad to have learned this procedure.
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Last edited by Lazerbrains; 02-09-2016 at 02:31 PM.
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