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post #1 of 12 Old 03-11-2016 Thread Starter
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Replacing both Fuel filters - Yanmar 1GM10

I've recently purchased an old Westerly Nomad, and although engine has been working fine, I only ran it for about 10 hrs end of last year and I want to change both Primary and secondary fuel filters so that I know they have both been done.

Which one should I change first ?

I have never done this before, but think I understand the basics from watching youtube video's.

But my thinking is when I replace them I will possibly be disturbing sediment on the existing filters that might have built up.

Would it be best to replace the primary filter first, although this might be the dirtiest, and more chance to disturb sediment, it would be caught by the 2ndary.

get the engine started and run for 5-10 mins.

Then replace the 2ndary -> prime and restart.

Or would it be better to reverse the procedure, under the assumption that the 2ndary is the cleanest and least likely to disturb build up, then move onto the primary?
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Re: Replacing both Fuel filters - Yanmar 1GM10

If you have two filters then the first one is an aftermarket one. many only use the stock Yanmar engine filter. with an after market filter in place the second filter is really not doing much at all. with the flow of a 1GM10 doubt you will even have anything in the second filter. I have stock and after market Racor on my 1GM10 and change both at the same time never have had a problem.
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Re: Replacing both Fuel filters - Yanmar 1GM10

Overboard is right. First filter is aftermarket. Second is your yanmar. Your overthinking this. Just replace both. Then prime your fuel system. Little pump, you'll find it if you trace your fuel lines. And your good to go. You can fill the canister with ATF fluid to help with priming.
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Re: Replacing both Fuel filters - Yanmar 1GM10

Be careful with the primary, it's really easy to get the o-ring caught up, and don't go mad on the bleed screw. Both will result in leaks.
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-11-2016
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Re: Replacing both Fuel filters - Yanmar 1GM10

It doesn't matter which filter is changed first as the bulk of the captured debris will be 'within' and held fast by the filter material. Any minuscule amount of debris not cleaned from the 'sump' of the filter will be captured by that reinstalled/new filter during re-start.

Typically and functionally the engine mounted 'guard' or 'last chance' filter has the most convenient air bleed - for purging air; so, the 'guard' filter is the easiest to bleed air. You can most conveniently air bleed both filters through the air bleed on the engine mounted 'guard' filter.
Change the pre filter(s) and the engine mounted guard filter; purge the air through whatever pre-filter is installed and continue to purge the air through the engine guard filter. Doing the air purge separately will only waste time, and oil. Do it all the air bleeding at the same time.

Note: Be careful in cross matching the 然 retention rating to be consistent with the engine manufacturers specification ... for example: the small 'guard' filter on Yanmars is typically specified @ 15 to 17 然. The typical correct pre-filter to the 15 to 17然 engine mounted 'guard' filter (again, for Yanmars) will be a 10然 'prefilter'.... and is of smaller retention 然 rating than the the 'final' or 'guard' filter. Such filters are NOT 100% removal efficient at their 'rating' so don't be alarmed at the smaller retention in place before the final/guard/last-chance filter. Volvo marine engines usually will have 'finer' filter 然 requirements.
Lastly, DO NOT substitute a smaller 然 retention filter than that specified by the engine manufacturer.

Typical set up for Yanmars: tank --> 1st pre-filter (optional) @ 30然 --> pre-filter 10然 --> engine guard filter 15-17然 --> engine.
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Re: Replacing both Fuel filters - Yanmar 1GM10

Yanmar OEM primary is 10-15 micron, I have a 2 micron before that. Make sure to pre-fill the secondary (the bigger) filter with fuel, saves you a lot of time poking the little fuel pump lever. First bleed to the point on top of the primary, then the injection pump. You hopefully won't need to do the high-pressure side, run the engine for a good 15 minutes, if it runs then the high-pressure side is fine. If it dies, you likely need to have another go at bleeding the system (took me a couple of tries my first time), including the high pressure (crack open the fuel pipe to the injector and turn the engine over, then close it up once the bubbling stops).
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post #7 of 12 Old 03-12-2016
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Re: Replacing both Fuel filters - Yanmar 1GM10

FWIW .....
filters are 'sized' with respect to 然 'rating' based on flow capacity - gallons per minute per square ft. of surface area per pressure drop across the filter.

A 2然 has a very 'tight' pore structure
A 10然 has a quite 'open' pore structure.
A 2然 has 1/5th the flow capacity of a 10然 ...... to deliver the same amount of fuel the 2然 must be operating at 5 TIMES the pressure drop across the filter than a 10然. Or if operating at the same pressure drop, a 2然 will deliver only 1/5 the amount of fuel as a 10然.

This means that a 2然 in a fuel system that was designed / selected a 10然 (engine designed for 20然 'most damaging particle')..... will be putting ONE HELL OF A LOAD onto the diaphragm of the lift pump - expect premature fuel pump failure. Worse, there are exponentially more particles at the 'smaller' size range than the spec'd. size .... the 2然 filter will choke with debris about 10 times 'faster' than a 10然.
Even (more) worse, most of the debris in diesel fuel is mostly biological (fungal fragments, dead cells., etc.) which are deformable and which under increasing pressure across such a filter will begin to EXTRUDE right through the filter media ...... these 'deformable' do no burn well in the combustion chamber but probably are the chief source of 'coke' that blocks an exhaust system.

Last edited by RichH; 03-12-2016 at 10:30 AM.
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Re: Replacing both Fuel filters - Yanmar 1GM10

Filter is rated at 30 gph so I'm not overly concerned about flow rate, could probably move to a 10micron. Fuel system itself is nice and clean.

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Re: Replacing both Fuel filters - Yanmar 1GM10

Rich,

Correct me if I am wrong here. One could put a 5x bigger filter in the 2um filter vs the 10um. Have the 2um be a 2 micron, and the 10um being say a 10 micron could they not?

As I recall, my 2gm is a 2micron, altho it may be the 2um at the engine, I've gone with a 10m racor before it. This seems to get most of the mess when the time comes.....I[ve been told not to use a smaller micron secondary vs the primary later in the line, so I have not done so. The racor is good to 8 or 15 gpm. If I do more than 1gpm I am at FULL throttle. Usually about .5-.9 gpm for most useage. I can not imagine a 1gm being any higher use gpm wise.

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Re: Replacing both Fuel filters - Yanmar 1GM10

I have mainly used a 2 micron in the Raycor and the suggested 10micron in the engine filter because a Yanmar dude told me to.
But now just as often I use 10micron in both.

In either case change both together otherwise you are just wasteing time.

On the point about running the engine after bleeding: I find 10 minutes without load bloody useless. I go for a lap around the park at normal revs for 20 minutes. Sometimes the last bubble are not out for 15 mins and it can be a bit of a worry if its gunna cut out.

As a general point from a guy who ain't no mechanic whatsoever...: Do not fear the engine! Just get in and change the filters, oil, etc when you need to. These engines are pretty good and they are pretty hard for an amateur with a brain to stuff up.

Swearing helps

After a couple of filter, oil changes etc, its all quite easy
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