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post #1 of 9 Old 03-16-2016 Thread Starter
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Hard Varnish?

I have a teak pin rail and belaying pins that attach to my lower shrouds. I've been varnishing them with Interlux Captains for years with pretty good results, but I find the abrasion resistance not that great.

Mostly I use the pins just to store the lines away from the mast so there isn't much strain. I do use one of the pins as my main boom topping lift belaying point and the varnish always gets rubbed off of the rail at that location.

I'm looking for some sort of coating that cures vary hard that I can use as a top coat, over my existing varnish. I was originally planning on going with Bristol Finish, but there are very mixed reviews about that.

Then I found Perfection Plus, but found out that absolutly can not be put over varnish (saw Minnie's experience with it a few years ago).

Awlclear looks promising. I've used Awlgrip before and love it. But what isn't clear is whether it can be used over varnish. There are also few online discussions about it.

Any one have any recommendations about a top coat that can be applied over varnish that has good abrasion resistance? Doesn't have to be a two (or three) part, but I just assume that they would normally be harder when cured.

S/V Argyle
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-16-2016
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Re: Hard Varnish

You could put a clear epoxy on as the first coat, then the varnish over top. The epoxy needs the varnish to protect from UV. It will still wear off just as fast. Otherwise, just put a bunch more coats on.

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post #3 of 9 Old 03-16-2016
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Re: Hard Varnish



http://www.amazon.com/Ronseal-Diamon...l+diamond+hard .... but this one is tinted 'teak', so look for a clear version if for over teak.

..... or, if you know a 'prime quality' furniture restorer/refinisher ask him if he will 'mix up' some hard varnish for you. Most of the real 'finishers' of the world mix up their own HARD varnish.

Obviously you don't want anything to do with (soft and flexible) SPAR varnish.

Last edited by RichH; 03-16-2016 at 03:00 PM.
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Re: Hard Varnish

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Originally Posted by RichH View Post


Ronseal Diamond Hard Interior Wood Varnish - Gloss - Teak - 250ml - - Amazon.com .... but this one is tinted 'teak', so look for a clear version if for over teak.

..... or, if you know a 'prime quality' furniture restorer/refinisher ask him if he will 'mix up' some hard varnish for you. Most of the real 'finishers' of the world mix up their own HARD varnish.

Obviously you don't want anything to do with (soft and flexible) SPAR varnish.

Have you used this on an exterior surface? Doesn't look like it has any UV protection. Might not last very long outside.

S/V Argyle
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Re: Hard Varnish

Sorry, what I posted is for interior surfaces. I don't know of any already prepared 'hard' varnish for use on exteriors.

An alternative for exterior would be 'Honey Teak' by Signature Finish which becomes quite hard when applied 'thick'. Expensive, but can last 10-15 years, but needs a 'slop coat' of clear every few years. Signature Finish and Honey Teak Products - Home
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Re: Hard Varnish

The Honey Teak or their urethane top coat both look promising. Don't know if either can be applied over varnish, might have to ask them.

Thanks!

S/V Argyle
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Re: Hard Varnish

Usually applied over 'bare' teak.
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Re: Hard Varnish

I used to use and love Captains...what great depth. Now I use AwlSpar/AwlBrite. AwlBrite is catalyzed and goes on AwlSpar varnish (much like Captains...smell, application and finish)...AwlSpar can go over Captains with a sand (of course not their highest recommendation) then AwlBrite...I do not know if AwlBrite can go directly on Captains. They also have Awlwood...pushing hard...I have no experience with this product.
Hope this helps!
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-17-2016
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Re: Hard Varnish

I'd guess even if by luck Awlwood was chemically compatible (wouldn't soften/separate) your existing varnish, it would probably still be a waste. Perfection Plus and Awlwood make it pretty clear that you have to strip to bare wood before applying the system. Part of their "magic" is the synergy between their primer applied to the wood and the top coating laid on that. On *any* coating system, you owe it to your wallet to read the directions.

Also, in my experience, putting a really hard coating over a softer one doesn't work out well.

I think 2 part polys are __way__ more abrasion resistant, so they sound like exactly the sort of thing you want here. If it were me I'd strip it bare and apply PP or Awlwood, following the directions, using their whole primer system, etc. Then keep us in the loop - its super helpful to hear real-world experiences of how these systems hold up in different scenarios.

Last edited by chris95040; 03-17-2016 at 10:51 AM.
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