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post #11 of 20 Old 05-18-2016
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Re: Barrier coat...Which one and why?

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Originally Posted by Adele-H View Post
....What kind should I use? Not an ablative..right?
Whether you use hard or ablative paint, is entirely up to you. Mixing the two is a danger zone, although, there is said to be some combinations that are acceptable. The paint manufacturers publish compatibility charts, but I've seen them change over the years, so I don't fully trust them. I would build my anti-fouling out of one paint and just change the color of the base layer.

I use Petit Vivid, a hybrid paint, I think they call it. It works well up here in RI, which isn't too far from you. However, I put a single top coat layer on annually. It is claimed to be multi-year paint, but I highly doubt it. I had one yard guy tell me that multi-year meant about 18 month, so you would never get through the end of the next season.

As a generalization, ablatives can work over multiple years, if you have enough paint thickness to continue to ablate for mulitple seasons. Hard paints often have a max time they can be out of the water, until they lose their effectiveness (ie why I single top coat each spring). Check them all out.


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post #12 of 20 Old 05-18-2016 Thread Starter
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All good information.
Thank you all for sharing.
I have a busy weekend in front of me.
Hope the weather holds up.
I will do the 3 barrier coats.
And find out what is compatible with the horizon that I have already.
Thank you again for your input.
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post #13 of 20 Old 05-18-2016
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Re: Barrier coat...Which one and why?

After closely inspecting thousands of bottoms (many of them on boats) I have come to the conclusion that the branded "barrier coatings" are little more than hype and an excuse to charge inflated "marine" pricing. I and a number of long term boating buddies (many in the business) have been using run of the mill clear epoxy for barrier coating without issue. I have seen many failed Interprotect coatings (likely from poor prep, saw one yesterday) but never seen a clear epoxy failure. Aside from the price, another benefit of using clear is the smoothness that can be accomplished with the right roller where Interprotect produces a pebbled surface that must be sanded if you want low drag.

PS. Another beef ... I currently have eight unanswered emails to Interlux with a question about one of their anti-fouling paints.
Not the best customer service.

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post #14 of 20 Old 05-18-2016
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Re: Barrier coat...Which one and why?

I gotta say I'm no expert in the application of clear epoxy, but I used plenty of it in small batches for repairs. I would never want to try to coat a boat bottom with clear epoxy, facing pot life and running issues. The real value of the Interprotech product is its designed easy of application, rolling an entire bottom is a piece of cake. While the finish is a little pebbly, that disappears under two coats of paint.

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Re: Barrier coat...Which one and why?

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I gotta say I'm no expert in the application of clear epoxy, but I used plenty of it in small batches for repairs. I would never want to try to coat a boat bottom with clear epoxy, facing pot life and running issues. The real value of the Interprotech product is its designed easy of application, rolling an entire bottom is a piece of cake. While the finish is a little pebbly, that disappears under two coats of paint.
Slow cure type, thin coats, extremely easy. I prefer hard paints and like my bottom ultra smooth (my boats' too).
Hard paint shows up every "pebble" of Interprotect.

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Last edited by boatpoker; 05-18-2016 at 10:41 PM.
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post #16 of 20 Old 05-19-2016 Thread Starter
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So a slow cure would be ok to apply, foam roller?
Would a foam roller disintegrate in epoxy?
I read that the brier coat has to be of a certain thickness, 3 to 6 mil.
That may mean 4 to 6 coats of a clear coat if applied as thin as possible.
I too would be afraid of the runs and drips .
Any good way to prevent those? Maybe adding some microbial loons to the mix.
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post #17 of 20 Old 05-19-2016
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Re: Barrier coat...Which one and why?

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Originally Posted by boatpoker View Post

PS. Another beef ... I currently have eight unanswered emails to Interlux with a question about one of their anti-fouling paints.
Not the best customer service.
That's odd. I had an e-mail answered right away, in addition to three separate phone calls returned within a few hours. You may want to try giving them a call and leaving a message.

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post #18 of 20 Old 05-19-2016
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Re: Barrier coat...Which one and why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adele-H View Post
So a slow cure would be ok to apply, foam roller?
Would a foam roller disintegrate in epoxy?
I read that the brier coat has to be of a certain thickness, 3 to 6 mil.
That may mean 4 to 6 coats of a clear coat if applied as thin as possible.
I too would be afraid of the runs and drips .
Any good way to prevent those? Maybe adding some microbial loons to the mix.
I've done 3 boats, from 18' to 35' using interprotect 2000 over the past 26 years here in Mystic. Petit has a competitor to Interprotect 2000 and I understand it also works. That said, I would use a true barrier coat rather than clear epoxy, except for sealing bare Fiberglas. If you are down to gel coat, the clear epoxy is not necessary.

My last barrier coating job was applied in 2015. I then applied 3 coated of Petit Hydrocoat, which I have been using on my sailboat for the past 6 year or so with excellent results. The first coat should be applied when the last barrier coat is still soft. I used a different color for the first coat of bottom paint, followed by 2 finish coats. The boat looked great after haulout last fall.

It isn't a "guy thing" to read--let alone follow--instructions, but I've had great results following directions since 1990, when I finally figured this out! I have a lot of confidence in the Interlux products and advice.
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post #19 of 20 Old 05-19-2016 Thread Starter
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Being in construction, I read all instructions on everything. It has saved my sorry butt many times.
I just dropped the rudder, there was a crack right on the skeg (?) Just in front of the rudder, that'll get some attention before the job is done. Also figured out where all the water was coming in, in the bottom of the stowage compartment..
All the repairs that I have done below the water line have been epoxy based, so I think the hull is pretty good now, I do want it to be smooth as glass. What kind of roller/ application ?
I'll probably go with a 2 part barrier coat, I think all brands are probably as good as each other.
Hydrocoat seems to be the choice around here for bottom paint.
I'll have to trade in some pleasure coupons this weekend.
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post #20 of 20 Old 05-19-2016
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Re: Barrier coat...Which one and why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adele-H View Post
Being in construction, I read all instructions on everything. It has saved my sorry butt many times.
I just dropped the rudder, there was a crack right on the skeg (?) Just in front of the rudder, that'll get some attention before the job is done. Also figured out where all the water was coming in, in the bottom of the stowage compartment..
All the repairs that I have done below the water line have been epoxy based, so I think the hull is pretty good now, I do want it to be smooth as glass. What kind of roller/ application ?
I'll probably go with a 2 part barrier coat, I think all brands are probably as good as each other.
Hydrocoat seems to be the choice around here for bottom paint.
I'll have to trade in some pleasure coupons this weekend.
Make sure you use a solvent-resistant roller. The cheap foam rollers will not work. I use a 1/4" nap lintless "candy stripe" roller from a local paint store for both barrier coat and bottom paint. I don't sand between coats and therefore don't get a shiny smooth final surface, but it works for me.
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