OK, let's say just for argument's sake that this old tree is bending a tiny bit (5/8" not 1/2"), what line would you recommend?
Having spent the last 2 hours or so getting only about 6 pages to load, my research is not going well. In fact, the computer very nearly went swimming, saved only by my wife's quick action.
I will still have to deal with the splicing, but that can wait.
It depends on how price sensitive you are. Since it sounds like you have some slow internet issues I will condense a few things down from other sources here to try and make it a little quicker than sending you to all the sources.
To make things a little easier I have tried to stick with the same strength line, though in reality sheets are normally sized for stretch not strength, which makes the dyneema lines far stronger than they really need to be, with less stretch than sta-set would exhibit.
Line ............... MBL (lbs) ... Price /ft ....... Where
5/8 sta-set...... 17,000 ...... 2.73 ............ West marine
1/2 Maxibraid.. 20,000 ...... 3.42 ............ Hall Spar
7/16 Endurabraid 15,000 ... 4.05 ............ Hall Spar
3/4 sta-set...... 23,500 ...... 4.34 ............ West Marine
9/16 Maxibraid..22,000 ..... 4.07 ............ Hall Spar
1/2 Endurabraid 21,500 ..... 5.25 ............ Hall Spar
I did not shop these prices, or see if you could get a deal somewhere. Likely if you have to order it it would make sense to look at buying a 1/2 spool (300') of whatever it is. Discounts on a half spool can be as high as 50% so it's worth investigating.
The major difference in the endurabraid and the Maxibraid are in the type of dyneema used. The endura uses a higher grade that is stronger, and a slightly different weave that makes it more resistant to snags. But I have used both to good effect.
Splicing dyneema cored line (called Class 2) is different than splicing polyester lines (class 1) because the cover provides none of the strength, it's just there to protect the core. But there are two ways to make an eye in it, they are the same strength, but the better one never exposes the core to the sun, with the other it is. on the other hand the better one is much harder to perform.
this btw is the slowest website I have seen in a long time. Sorry.
1) taper about 5' of the core out. ( Splicing Guide - Tapering the Cover on High-Tech Ropes
2) make an eye splice in the now raw dyneema, just like splicing amsteel (this is the easiest splice in the world to get right). http://www.samsonrope.com/Documents/...Splice_WEB.pdf
Personally I taper then eye splice, this lasts about five years at which point I just cut off the end and redo it on the other end.