Gel coat crazing repairable or should I prep to paint? - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 9 Old 06-13-2016 Thread Starter
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Gel coat crazing repairable or should I prep to paint?

Hey everyone!

I have read through MaineSail's sticky on compounding and polishing. I thoroughly enjoyed reading it and will definitely make use of the knowledge in the future.

I've got a 1976 Bristol 27 which has some major gelcoat crazing/alligatoring.

As i slowly make my way through the wood onboard and refinishing all of that, I am starting to think/determine what I need to do to get the exterior hull/topsides looking spiffy again.

Here are some photos of the gel coat up close. I have a bottole of meguiar's one step cleaner wax, which obviously wont work too well on this.

I was thinking I may need to take down a couple layers of gelcoat starting with 600-1000 grit paper.

Should I even bother? Should I just prep the surface and use a 2part epoxy primer and go that route instead?
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post #2 of 9 Old 06-13-2016
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Re: Gel coat crazing repairable or should I prep to paint?

I don't think that will buff-out. However, painting is a large undertaking. To do it right you will need to remove all the deck hardware. I removed my toe rail on my B27. Good to be able to re-bed the toe rail, but, it was really hard to get back on. If I were to do it again, I would consider glassing over the hull to deck joint.

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Re: Gel coat crazing repairable or should I prep to paint?

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I don't think that will buff-out. However, painting is a large undertaking. To do it right you will need to remove all the deck hardware. I removed my toe rail on my B27. Good to be able to re-bed the toe rail, but, it was really hard to get back on. If I were to do it again, I would consider glassing over the hull to deck joint.

Yeah I figured that was far beyond the "buff-out" repair job which is why i was thinking a sanding task might be able to salvage it. I'm planning to haul out sometime between October-December and take some time off work to focus on projects that need to be done.

I was thinking about how i'd undergo that deck-to-hull joint and if the toe rail should come off. I like the idea of glassing over it. I'll have to think about how i'd go about that and how it'd be done.

Since my goal is to preserve what I have right now, would it be worth my effort to put some time into waxing the hull to prevent further oxidization until i go about painting?
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post #4 of 9 Old 06-13-2016
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Re: Gel coat crazing repairable or should I prep to paint?

I'm sure most of that crazing goes right throught the gel coat. Doubt sanding would work. I wouldn't wax it. In order for the paint to adhere, you will need to get all the wax off. If you haven't seen this site, check it out. He glassed over the hull-deck joint.

Bristol27.com Bulwark & Toe Rail

Also, for really Bristol specific questions, check out the Bristol Owners Yahoo group.
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Last edited by Barquito; 06-17-2016 at 10:49 AM.
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Re: Gel coat crazing repairable or should I prep to paint?

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I'm sure most of that crazing goes right throught the gel coat. Doubt sanding would work. I wouldn't wax it. In order for the paint to adhere, you will need to get all the was off. If you haven't seen this site, check it out. He glassed over the hull-deck joint.

Bristol27.com Bulwark & Toe Rail

Also, for really Bristol specific questions, check out the Bristol Owners Yahoo group.
I missed that post! He did a decent job on that!!!

Unfortunately, I'm not a fan of not having that teak toe rail, so I couldn't succumb to fiberglassing over it. Though it doesn't mean I couldn't tear off the teak toe rail, glass over, then remount it.
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Re: Gel coat crazing repairable or should I prep to paint?

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I'm no expert, but I think he set himself up for failure by leaving the limber holes (slots) under the rail. The water will get in and do its nasty work.

I would have gone with toe rails in 3 or 4 pieces and 1" drainage spaces between them.

My PO messed up a little by putting butyl tape under the entire run of the rails, even where the limber holes are; oops!

Ken

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Re: Gel coat crazing repairable or should I prep to paint?

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I'm no expert, but I think he set himself up for failure by leaving the limber holes (slots) under the rail. The water will get in and do its nasty work.

I would have gone with toe rails in 3 or 4 pieces and 1" drainage spaces between them.

My PO messed up a little by putting butyl tape under the entire run of the rails, even where the limber holes are; oops!

Ken
I missed that, that definitely would be something I would not want to deal with come down the road. One thing I hate/frustrated with my B27 is the fact that the holes in the deck for the chainplates, and the tops of the knees where the plates bolt to, are not sealed off units. Fortunately I'm only seeing rot in the deck and not the top of the knee's, but its something that does boggle my mind quite a bit.

As for his design, I also would have encapsulated those limber holes as well.

What was wrong with putting butyl tape under the entire run? Granted, they should have removed the section of tape where the limber holes are, but is there any reason why the rest of the rail shouldn't have it?
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Re: Gel coat crazing repairable or should I prep to paint?

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... limber holes are, but is there any reason why the rest of the rail shouldn't have it?
Oh no, it's great that he used the tape. It's just been difficult to get the excess out (once I figured out why they didn't drain).

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Re: Gel coat crazing repairable or should I prep to paint?

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What was wrong with putting butyl tape under the entire run? Granted, they should have removed the section of tape where the limber holes are, but is there any reason why the rest of the rail shouldn't have it?
I think butyl is the best way to go for sealing under the toe rail. For the area under the toe rail scuppers, you need to make sure the joint is sealed. If you were to glass over the joint, it might be easier to re-drill all the toe rail bolts rather that try to make the existing bolts fit. They just never seem to line up again after removal.

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