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post #1 of 20 Old 08-17-2016 Thread Starter
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Universal Diesel Cooling Improvement?

My Universal 5416 is currently plumbed with the hot water heater coil in series with the heat exchanger. It runs hotter than I think it should, shows 195-205 deg. F on the gage (the gage is not delineated very well so that is about as accurate as I can get). I have run the engine for long periods (8-10 hrs) at the "elevated" temperature and the engine doesn't complain, however, am worried about possible long term wear and tear.

I read an article recently that says the hot water heater should be plumbed in series with the bypass line, not the heat exchanger and not doing so could lead to overheating.

The reconfiguration is not complicated, but before messing with it (I have an already large list of other things to fix) would like to get a feel for how much temperature improvement to expect.

Has anyone done this reconfiguration on their engine and what were the results.
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Re: Universal Diesel Cooling Improvement?

I have done the reconfiguration on my M25, and an M3-20. It is not hard, and I get domestic hot water much faster. My engine never runs at above 180F. I have also upgraded from a 2" to 3" Heat Exchanger (and a bunch of other things).

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Re: Universal Diesel Cooling Improvement?

First see what temp you're actually running. Buy or borrow a laser thermometer and shoot several spots on the engine. Your gauge could well be off. Off you are running significantly higher than the thermostat temp, your cooling system is either inadequate out partially blocked. The fact that there is a larger HX available tells me the stock one may be undersized. 195 is not too hot for the engine, the for cylinder in my S10 pickup has a 195 deg stat and runs 195 by design. My raw water cooled 5411 runs 160 deg. on a 140 deg stat which tells me the water flow could be better.

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Re: Universal Diesel Cooling Improvement?

Connecting to the bypass will give you hotter water quicker, that's how the heater in a car is hooked up. The HX line only gets hot after the engine warms up and the T stat opens. Of there's an air bubble in the water heater, and that's common, it can cause over heating. I'm not sure if would matter which side the heater is on though, either would block coolant flow.
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Re: Universal Diesel Cooling Improvement?

Eherlihy, on your before picture it looks like either the water heater lines weren't connected to the engine or they were connected at the heat exchanger in the rear of the engine. Was wondering which.

My current congfiguration is that the hot water hose comes out of the thermostat housing, goes to the water heater and then back to the coolant reservoir (picture attached).

Your post picture looks exactly like what another author was recommending.

Universal Diesel Cooling Improvement?-engine-picture.jpg
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Re: Universal Diesel Cooling Improvement?

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Originally Posted by capt jgwinks View Post
Connecting to the bypass will give you hotter water quicker...
Wouldn't it also take longer for the engine to warm up?

I believe that diesels like to get hot and stay hot (within limits, of course).

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Re: Universal Diesel Cooling Improvement?

Probably would. You're also heating the water in the tank.
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Re: Universal Diesel Cooling Improvement?

I had a 5416 in my boat. the WH always heated quite hot. the HW left the engine coolant pump then went to the Heat Ex. (if I remember right) On long runs, the WH water will get very hot, possibly enough to pop the TPR valve on the WH engine never temped over 190 (with the new gauge)

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Re: Universal Diesel Cooling Improvement?

That's why some of the better heaters have metering valves on the engine lines. Recommended temp for your home water heater is something like 120, your engine will take it to 180. More than enough to cause serious burns.
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Re: Universal Diesel Cooling Improvement?

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonSink62 View Post
Wouldn't it also take longer for the engine to warm up?

I believe that diesels like to get hot and stay hot (within limits, of course).

Ken
Nope.

Using the thermostst bypass is allowing the water that would normally circulate through the entire system, including the heat exchanger, to continue to do so. The bypass was put there to allow the coolant pump to not suffer too much back pressure (and damage the vanes). The bypass circuit routes the trickle of coolant that flows through the little hole in the thermostat and the heat which would otherwise be wasted in the heat exchanger to instead be useful, and flow through the water heater.


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