Fender Boards - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 14 Old 08-01-2017 Thread Starter
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Re: Fender Boards

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Originally Posted by timangiel View Post
"Now I just need to add some line and I'm ready for the next blow that comes across Lake Erie."


That seems to occur every 7 hours[emoji3]

Nice job.

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It sure does. In fact, went down to the boat, last Friday and it was steady 30 kts. gusting to at least 35 or more. And worse yet, from a direction that pushed me onto the finger pier. Unfortunately, the fender boards still don't have the stainless steel rub rail on them yet. That should change before the next blow.

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post #12 of 14 Old 08-12-2017
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Re: Fender Boards

They look really nice but I'd be careful where you use them. I've been up and down the Champlain and parts of the Erie canals with a fender board made from common 2x6 pine, left unfinished. In use, they don't readily show. The canal lock walls tore them up pretty quick, though they've remained functional. I consider them consumable, throw-away items and when these get too chewed up, I'll just pick up another board at a lumber yard. I'll bet you could get away with nailing a couple sacrificial strips of half-round pine moulding onto yours and they still might look good if you put a couple coats of varnish on them. But they'll be cheap and easy to replace--probably a lot cheaper than stainless steel.
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post #13 of 14 Old 08-13-2017
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Re: Fender Boards

You might consider a final coat or two of Watco Teak Oil. The difference between Teak Oil and Danish oil, AFAIK, is that the Teak oil contains U.V. protectants to shield the wood from harmful sun rays, and a mildewcide. IOW, Danish Oil is meant for indoor applications, Teak oil is meant for outdoor and indoor applications.
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post #14 of 14 Old 08-13-2017 Thread Starter
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Re: Fender Boards

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Originally Posted by svselkie02 View Post
They look really nice but I'd be careful where you use them. I've been up and down the Champlain and parts of the Erie canals with a fender board made from common 2x6 pine, left unfinished. In use, they don't readily show. The canal lock walls tore them up pretty quick, though they've remained functional. I consider them consumable, throw-away items and when these get too chewed up, I'll just pick up another board at a lumber yard. I'll bet you could get away with nailing a couple sacrificial strips of half-round pine moulding onto yours and they still might look good if you put a couple coats of varnish on them. But they'll be cheap and easy to replace--probably a lot cheaper than stainless steel.
That's a great idea with the half-round, but I had already ordered the stainless steel rub rail. I'm going to have a couple of sacrificial fender boards for rough bulkheads or locks. This one will be a 'dress' fender board for my home berth or any other relatively nice spot.

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You might consider a final coat or two of Watco Teak Oil. The difference between Teak Oil and Danish oil, AFAIK, is that the Teak oil contains U.V. protectants to shield the wood from harmful sun rays, and a mildewcide. IOW, Danish Oil is meant for indoor applications, Teak oil is meant for outdoor and indoor applications.
I realized that after reading the label more carefully on the Watco Danish oil. I've used that finish for 30+ years, but now that I look back on it, everything was inside. I actually did exactly as you suggest and did two more coats of Watco's Teak Oil. It looks great.

[IMG]Untitled by Bill, on Flickr[/IMG]
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