Replacing Windows - Tape method - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 3 Old 08-07-2017 Thread Starter
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Replacing Windows - Tape method

I'm replacing the side windows on my 1989 X-342 and am considering the newer(?) approach of making the plexiglas pieces oversize and using the 3M tape to attach the to the outer surface of the coach hose, rather than trying to duplicate the original method (windows were just sandwiched between two layers of weatherstrip rather than sitting in a proper channel, and they leaked). The windows are one piece/side, and they are about 55" long x 6" high. I feel like if i do it this way and things go south it would be difficult to clean things up and go back to the old method.

Have people had trouble with this method and of so, what should I watch for? Also, is an unsupported window that size too long for attaching his way? What are everyone's preferences for a secondary sealing cmpound next to the tape? And what's the best way to get all of the silicon residue off the gel coat before attaching new windows?

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 3 Old 08-08-2017
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Re: Replacing Windows - Tape method

I recently installed new plexi windows in my Albin Vega using the manner you describe. I followed this method, using 3M VHB 4991 double-sided-sided acrylic foam tape, and Dow Corning 795 Silicone Building Sealant:

Last edited by dixiedawg; 08-08-2017 at 01:26 PM.
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post #3 of 3 Old 08-08-2017
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Re: Replacing Windows - Tape method

"Taping" windows and portlights can be a problem, especially if the OEM windows, and their frames etc. have any 'curvature' to them. If you attempt to replace a window with dead-flat materials and the frames have 'any' amount of curvature, even 1/16" of 'bowing', the tape cannot be expected to hold the pane to the frame ... and the pane will eventually loosen and leak.

So, if the frame is curved, I would recommend' doing a trial of heating (heat setting the pane to the needed curvature) the polymer window material to approx. 170-180F (check with the mgr. of the material) in an oven (using a laser indirect read thermometer to precisely monitor) and then carefully force-match the curve of the frame to the new pane ... you'll need to 'cobble together' a frame/mold upon which you form the shape of the new 'window'.
If you don't match curve-for-curve, you'll ultimately need to 'through bolt' the pane along its surface edges where it joins the frame as the 'springy-ness' of the flat pane will continually cause the pane to continually loosen from the frame ... and lose all the aesthetics of simply 'gluing' with tape, etc.

Last edited by RichH; 08-08-2017 at 12:51 PM.
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