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post #11 of 41 Old 09-27-2017
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Re: Lifeline Replacement

You've been given a number of good vendors that will do what you want. Just remove what you have and have it matched. Your decision will be to go with coated or uncoated. The racing regs are clear (uncoated only) but if you don't race you can go coated. Why not Dyneema? I just changed out my old coated SS lifelines with Dyneema and am very happy with how it went.

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post #12 of 41 Old 09-28-2017
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Re: Lifeline Replacement

Bryan. I have a large compression. swaging tool I can lend you. I did Haleakulas myself 5 years ago using all Johnson self swaging. It is less than 1/2 the price than any rigger. Most expensive pieces are the fittings and the gate hardware. I bought everything online. Check prices. Most of mine came from https://www.fisheriessupply.com/sail...nd-accessories


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post #13 of 41 Old 09-28-2017
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Re: Lifeline Replacement

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Originally Posted by chef2sail View Post
Bryan. I have a large compression. swaging tool I can lend you. I did Haleakulas myself 5 years ago using all Johnson self swaging. It is less than 1/2 the price than any rigger. Most expensive pieces are the fittings and the gate hardware. I bought everything online. Check prices. Most of mine came from https://www.fisheriessupply.com/sail...nd-accessories
You want to draw out a diagram too. Not hard for an architect 😄


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post #14 of 41 Old 09-28-2017
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Re: Lifeline Replacement

While racing rules may not apply, the rule exists for a very good reason, IMO. Wet stainless steel does rust, unless exposed to air. Putting a coating over it is just asking for rust near the ends of the coating or wherever it splits. I can't think of a legit reason to favor coated wire. Personally, I think bare wire looks better too. Since production boats are typically sold with coated, I'm guessing most people like the look of coated better. I don't get it.

p.s. Mine are due for replacement too. Original OEM coated wire is rust staining through. Will go with bare. I just need the time to fully de-rig, which requires some recording and labeling. I will drop off mine at a local rigger.
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post #15 of 41 Old 09-28-2017
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Re: Lifeline Replacement

Wet stainless does rust and that is the problem with coated wire. H2O contains the thing needed for stainless to rust called oxygen. stainless steel needs to be keep dry so that is does not rust.
Ever fall on the bare wire and loose some skin? that is why coated wire is better but it can't be better if it rusts and breaks when you need it most. coated wire can't be inspected

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post #16 of 41 Old 09-28-2017
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Re: Lifeline Replacement

If the lifeline wire is 316 s/s, it should not rust. Sometime there is surface rust on 316, but that is usually due to contamination from the dies used in manufacturing the wire. Some wire in past used 302 or 304 wire and that will rust, especially when enclosed in PVC!

Coated lifelines usually use 7x7 wire which allows some flexibility but is of lower strength. 3/16" has about 3100-3700 lb breaking strength depending on where it comes from. Uncoated lifelines are usually made from 1x19 wire. In 316 S/S, breaking strength is more like 4700 lbs.

Way back before I bought a proper swaging machine, I did several sets with hand swage fittings. They never looked that good and sometimes got a bit of a bend in them. Doubt they had the strength of proper machine swaged fittings.

Dyneema came out after my time, so don't have experience with that. I imagine splicing or special end fittings are needed. I read that is no longer approved for offshore racing. Se 3.14. https://rorc.sailgate.com/Downloads/...e-races-en.pdf

On a nice boat like the 4Arch has (Beneteau Oceanis 400?), I think I would go to 3/16" 1x19 uncoated these days. But no problem staying with 3/16 coated if owners prefers the "look" and does mostly inshore sailing. That's what I used on my own cruising boat.

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post #17 of 41 Old 09-28-2017
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Re: Lifeline Replacement

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If the lifeline wire is 316 s/s, it should not rust.....
All stainless will rust when wet and not exposed to air. 316 may just be slower, as I think it has marginally less iron. No doubt my rusty coated lifelines are 316.


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Re: Lifeline Replacement

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.....Ever fall on the bare wire and loose some skin? ......
Nope. I'm in the never come in contact with your lifelines, unless you're in process of falling off the boat, camp. In which case, the skin seems worth the save. The bigger argument, of course, is that a concealed and rusty wire may not make the save.
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post #19 of 41 Old 09-28-2017
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Re: Lifeline Replacement

Mine are getting replaced this year too.
I am inclined to go with dyneema, but just watched a video from a rigger where the stern end was done with a lashing.
Currently my lifelines are terminated at the stern with a turnbuckle. Is there a safety factor here?
I would imagine that one could cut the dyneema lifeline quite easily if needed, but maybe not?
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Re: Lifeline Replacement

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Mine are getting replaced this year too.
I am inclined to go with dyneema, but just watched a video from a rigger where the stern end was done with a lashing.
Currently my lifelines are terminated at the stern with a turnbuckle. Is there a safety factor here?
I would imagine that one could cut the dyneema lifeline quite easily if needed, but maybe not?
Some comments about dyneema. You can either go the with lashings or splice fittings. I liked the look of fittings, so went with CS Johnson splice fittings. I reused my turnbuckles and gate hooks and just got the proper threaded studs. And yes, the single braid dyneema line does cut pretty easily with a good sharp knife.
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