Suggestions for Fixes in the Cockpit? - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 16 Old 12-15-2017
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Re: Suggestions for Fixes in the Cockpit?

Fix them?

Put a beer cooler in the corner covering the grey blob.
Put a sign on the split wood saying "Do Not Look Here".


Fixed.

Go sailing.
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post #12 of 16 Old 12-15-2017
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Re: Suggestions for Fixes in the Cockpit?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaBiscuit42 View Post
Hi folks - I have a few questions regarding sailboat repair for a 19' Cape Dory Typhoon weekender. See photo attached.

First issue: Can anyone suggest a somewhat simple fix for this split teak in the cockpit ? I'll have to fix it at the slip, in the water, and don't have much in the way of wood working tools. I'm thinking some adhesive to seal the crack and then a brass screw drilled at the 90 where the two pieces connect, but I wonder if this would be enough to prevent future splitting and was thinking of reinforcing the backside with a corner brace of some sort, although I'm not keen on putting any more holes in the deck so I'm thinking maybe I could attach the brace using epoxy?

Second issue: The previous owner repaired a hole in the corner of the cockpit using some grey epoxy of sorts...not sure what it is. I'd like to sand it out and apply some primer/white gelcoat just to make it look a little better than a big gray patch. Any suggestions on the feasibility of this? Suggestions on paint products to use?

It may be obvious from my proposed solutions here that I'm a complete novice so pardon any naive suggestions I've posed here. Ive looked at youtube to try and find some solutions but can't find anything specific to these issues...maybe I'm not searching under right terms? Also, I've stripped the varnish and am going to apply teak oil.

Thanks for any suggestions!
off season you can remove the teak boards and glue it up with west system or another epoxy it would have to be gently clamped to stabilize the glue joint without compressing the glue too much. After it sets you can use 80 grit orbital to remove excess and all that shot varnish..shift to 180 to fair it all out Then if desired revarnish 5 coats before you bed it and reinstall. The dark patch is a bummer. tape off surrounding area sand smooth. That looks like marineTex and its too dark for white gel coat to cover and match convincingly.You might be able to sand most of it off and then do a build up with white epoxy filler till it is smooth again. I make some and use pigment so it can blend into the broader area. etc If the old patch is thin different approach use whitened epoxy to layer small glass cloth patches. Sand. fill sand
This can also be done with polyester resin with pigment with the advantage if it does begin to blend you dont need to worry about u.v. protection. Some local glass suppliers have ballpark mixes for hatteras white etc ask around

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post #13 of 16 Old 12-15-2017
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Re: Suggestions for Fixes in the Cockpit?

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Originally Posted by oysterman23 View Post
off season you can remove the teak boards and glue it up with west system or another epoxy it would have to be gently clamped to stabilize the glue joint without compressing the glue too much. After it sets you can use 80 grit orbital to remove excess and all that shot varnish..shift to 180 to fair it all out Then if desired revarnish 5 coats before you bed it and reinstall. The dark patch is a bummer. tape off surrounding area sand smooth. That looks like marineTex and its too dark for white gel coat to cover and match convincingly.You might be able to sand most of it off and then do a build up with white epoxy filler till it is smooth again. I make some and use pigment so it can blend into the broader area. etc If the old patch is thin different approach use whitened epoxy to layer small glass cloth patches. Sand. fill sand
This can also be done with polyester resin with pigment with the advantage if it does begin to blend you dont need to worry about u.v. protection. Some local glass suppliers have ballpark mixes for hatteras white etc ask around

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apologies other replies did not come up before I posted. Forgive the redundency! Enjoy the boat its a sweet one.


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post #14 of 16 Old 12-15-2017
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Re: Suggestions for Fixes in the Cockpit?

If you are going to glue the pieces back together, you'll need to gently clean the mating surface. I'd use a toothbrush and a gentle scrub with 409 or Simple Green for an initial clean up and then with acetone. Dirt and crud that's accumulated in the break will hinder glue adhesion and the natural oil in the teak needs to be cleaned away for the same reason. If you get too rambunctious with your scrubbing/cleaning, any material that you remove will make the repair that much more obvious.

Some kind of mechanical support will really help the survivability of the repair. Doubt a repair would last without putting some kind of additional support in the pieces. Dowels inserted using a dowelling jig would be the easiest and neatest way to do this. A basic dowelling jig is pretty cheap and about the only way you'd be able to get the drill holes for the dowels to line up. Another way would be to glue some 1/2" or so thick by 1"-2" wide teak strips on the face of the board. If you spaced them out the width of a person seated they wouldn't be too much of a comfort issue.

I'd use epoxy. Don't clamp the pieces too tight as the epoxy is stronger than the wood. If you apply too much pressure with the clamps, you'll squeeze out most of the epoxy which makes for a weak joint.

As others have said, the pieces have to come off the boat to make a repair.

Last edited by roverhi; 12-15-2017 at 08:08 PM.
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post #15 of 16 Old 12-16-2017
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Re: Suggestions for Fixes in the Cockpit?

Quote:
Originally Posted by capta View Post
..... using Resorcinol Glue......
Capta's suggestion for resorcinol is a good one. Not as easy to find as epoxy, but superior in many ways. As miraculous as epoxy is, it will degrade with exposure to sunlight, heat and moisture. Sounds like a sailboat cockpit to me. The big downside to resorcinol is the mating surfaces need to be pretty exact and clamped tight to bond. It won't fill a missing splinter or an imperfection. Given all the glue that must be removed, mating the surfaces perfectly could take a bit of work. Depends on how easily it comes off.

If the OP isn't going to coat the teak with varnish or other UV inhibitor, I think epoxy is out.

The more I think about it, the more likely the OP should make this a binary decision. Leave it alone (if it's functional), or fully replace the board.


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post #16 of 16 Old 12-18-2017
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Re: Suggestions for Fixes in the Cockpit?

Quote:
Originally Posted by capta View Post
If you take that piece of wood off the boat, clean up the mating surfaces of the crack and get some clamps, using Resorcinol Glue, you should have a joint that, if not nearly invisible, at least not very noticeable once you have varnished the piece. I would not try repairing it in place as I doubt you could do the job properly.
Captain Andy is right ! Take your time, do it like Capt A said you will find it better than it is now an it will last for you , . one jus cant GOOBER on boat repairs, they should be done with lovin tenderness or not at all. eh mate?
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