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post #1 of 18 Old 09-17-2018 Thread Starter
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plumbing head question

Hi I'm going to attach a drawing I did excuse my poor drawing skills!!!

I'm leaving the great lakes next year where we can't dump overboard.

in my drawing the red lines show how my boat is plumbed right now. Just goes from the head straight to the tank and there's a deck pump out.

Seems straight forward what I'm planning on doing but figured I would ask before I spend money!!!

so the green lines are what I'm thinking is what I need, along with 2 y-valves and 2 thru hulls.

Do I have this right?
thanks
Bob
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post #2 of 18 Old 09-17-2018
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Re: plumbing head question

We brought our boat from Georgian Bay to Vancouver Island, it had the same set-up as your red lines. I just added a manual holding tank pump with a separate outlet from the tank to the pump to a new thru hull. There is a single shut off valve before the pump to prevent back siphoning of the ocean. All water from the head still goes into the holding tank. It is then pumped overboard or removed via the deck pump out. I'm not convinced of the necessity of macerator pumps but you could replace the manual pump with one of those if you prefer. There is no chance of accidental discharge because a valve wasn't in the correct position.
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post #3 of 18 Old 09-18-2018 Thread Starter
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Re: plumbing head question

It sure is beautiful up in the north channel for sure almost hate to leave!!!! But adventure awaits!!!

I did think about everything going thru the tank, I guess I was thinking one more place to have problems.

I have just started looking at macerator pumps looks like there's two kinds diaphragm and vane pumps the diaphragm pumps seem better, but I don't know...

Bob
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post #4 of 18 Old 09-18-2018
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Re: plumbing head question

Why two through hulls?
Why not have macerator after head and before valve to overboard/ holding tank? Is this head electric or manual?
If electric and holding empties by gravity above would work and is simplist. If manual put macerator after holding tank. Then have option of having holding tank below waterline if necessary. If holding tank above waterline no macerator pump is necessary. Both ways eliminate need for second through hull.
Find the head through hulls are the only ones that need to exercised frequently. Would avoid having additional ones if possible.
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post #5 of 18 Old 09-18-2018
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Re: plumbing head question

Gravity was what I was questioning on the diagram as well. Not necessarily to avoid a second thru-hull, but to be sure where you intercept the lines is going to continue to allow them to operate correctly and not ever hold waste for a period of time. Even with a Y-valve, the thru-hulls require valves as well. You want nothing captured between.

Does your current holding tank have drains on the bottom, or on the top with dip tubes inside? If on the bottom, you'll want a shut off valve at the tank, so the hose is not perpetually filled with waste, as it will stink. Bottom drains are also a major leak hazard, IMO. Imagine if the hose ever detached.

On the other hand, if you have dip tubes, gravity won't do you any good and a mascerating pump is required.


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post #6 of 18 Old 09-18-2018
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Re: plumbing head question

I agree with those above that have recommended just to add one thru hull. It is possible to use a single thru hull for both direct discharge and discharge via a pump from the holding tank. My current boat was plumbed that way, but I never go directly overboard and always go to the tank. I also recommend keeping it simple and avoid the extra Y-valves. Then your major decision is to go with a manual diaphragm pump or an electric macerator pump.

Here's a good summary of the considerations.
https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvis...itation-System
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post #7 of 18 Old 09-18-2018
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Re: plumbing head question

Agree with the others. I would simplify it. I would only have one through-hull, and I would have all of the effluent go through the holding tank. Better still would be if the holding tank is mounted high enough that you can drain it with gravity; one outlet on the bottom of the tank direct to one through-hull, voila, you're done.

Good luck, whatever you do.
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Re: plumbing head question

Putting a drain in the bottom of a used holding tank should be fun.
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Re: plumbing head question

Iím reminded of the Jeanneaus that have the holding tank elevated behind cabinetry in the head. There is a short pump out run to the deck immediately above and a drain at the bottom of the tank, that goes to a single thru-hull to gravity discharge the tank into the sea. When you close the thru-hull valve, contents are contained in the tank. When open, each flush directly discharges, even though it passes through the tank first.

There are a couple of challenges with this design. First, there is a ~4 ft rise from the back of the head to the top of this tank. Suffficient clear water needs to be flushed to chase out waste from this rising hose, or it will permeate and stink. That extra flushing can fill the capacity of the tank more quickly. Secondly, when the thru-hull is closed, there is a section of hose that is the first to fill with waste. Iíve known this hose to collect compacted solids and block. Worse, however, is that it will also permeate and stink. Waste hoses should never have standing waste in them.


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post #10 of 18 Old 09-18-2018 Thread Starter
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Re: plumbing head question

My holding tank is below the waterline.
the tank has 3 hoses, vent, inlet high on the tank, and pump out at the bottom of the tank.
there is 1 thru hull already but it's capped off, PO installed new tank and hoses didn't bother to plumb it back in since we are a no discharge zone.
manual head.

I did look at the west marine diagrams before I posted this question, this photo is where I got my idea from. I was just thinking I needed to have a direct overboard line as well.

outbound - I don't understand what you are saying, I'm not seeing how I can have a pump after the tank and not have another thru hull.

jimscal - I think that might the simplest way to do it, a y valve at the pump out line, then macerator pump, then the thru hull.

Minnewaska - because of room I think the yard that did the work for the PO mounted the inlet/outlets on the side of the tank 1 near the top and 1 near the bottom. What I don't like is they didn't use clamps, they glued the hoses to the fittings, they haven't leaked but when I get this done I think I will add clamps just to have piece of mind!!!

Do I still need a anti siphon loop if I go with the use the holding tank, then pump out the holding tank thru a y valve? there would be 2 valves holding back the ocean then.

thanks
Bob
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