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A haul-out in my neck of the woods cost $500 so I'm thinking that a hookah system could easily pay for itself by drastically reducing the frequency with which I have to do them. After all, assuming my paint holds up I only have to go down there once a year to check my zincs and scrape off critters.
A haul-out in my neck of the woods cost $500 so I'm thinking that a hookah system could easily pay for itself by drastically reducing the frequency with which I have to do them. After all, assuming my paint holds up I only have to go down there once a year to check my zincs and scrape off critters.
I bought a Hookah Max system a number of years ago. It works well with my Honda 2000 generator. Don't use it often but, comes in handy for cleaning the bottom or if you have dropped something overboard at anchor. Takes up less storage and is much lighter than a dive tank.
have you considered hiring a diver... or paying for a lift up in the slings, power wash and splash? That can't be terribly expensive.
I hired a diver to clean the bottom he'll do it before I take a few week cruise so the bottom is faster. What is bad is when you let it go too far. Paint can do two seasons.
+++
If the painting is in the ranger of $1,500 and it last 2 seasons paying a diver could extend it 3 seasons .... maybe
I purchased a Sea Breathe 'deck snorkel' about 7 years ago, and it has been fantastic for us, saving us thousands of dollars. It operates on 12 VDC so there is no possibility of the exhaust from a generator contaminating the air (absolutely the most dangerous risk when operating any sort of dive air compressor or hookah rig) and it can even be operated in the dinghy with a battery for fun diving away from the boat. We have not needed to, but being 12 VDC electric, it could be used in even the most inclement weather offshore to do underwater repairs, keeping the compressor unit in the shelter of the dodger/cockpit.
It's a bit more expensive than most other similar units on the market, but as a professional divemaster, I have never been one to skimp on my compressors or dive equipment.
A haul-out in my neck of the woods cost $500 so I'm thinking that a hookah system could easily pay for itself by drastically reducing the frequency with which I have to do them. After all, assuming my paint holds up I only have to go down there once a year to check my zincs and scrape off critters.
I am thinking the same thing. With my old boat I was able to change my zinc and clean my prop while breathing through a snorkel. I would also scrub my bottom and keel by snorkel, but it was quite tiring. Now that we have a much larger boat, I wont be able to do that anymore.
The decision I need to make is power source, and size. To me electric is best. I dont want to deal with a small gas engine that is noisy and polluting. 115v would be ok if all I want to do is maintenance work at the dock, but if I am going to fork out the money for a Hookah, I think I would like to use it for recreational purposes too, so a 12v unit would add portability.
And then there is the size. The most cost effective unit is a single diver deck unit, but if I am going to use it to explore a reef, it would be more fun to explore it with my wife or a friend. (Its always a good idea to have a buddy, even if you are tethered to the boat!) So a 2 diver model would be better.
The next dilemma I face is portability. Around here the reefs I snorkel on are not right next to the boat, which will likely be anchored or docked in much deeper water, so diving within 40ft of the mothership will be very limiting. I could take a 12v deck unit and a battery in the dinghy, and just anchor the dinghy in the area I want to explore.
And then there is the size. The most cost effective unit is a single diver deck unit, but if I am going to use it to explore a reef, it would be more fun to explore it with my wife or a friend. (Its always a good idea to have a buddy, even if you are tethered to the boat!) So a 2 diver model would be better.
Of course, hindsight is 20/20, but I purchased my Sea Breathe deck snorkel before I met my sailing partner, at a time when I never expected to do anything but sail alone for the rest of my life. So yes, go with the double unit if you have someone to dive with.
As for building your own, if you are not a certified diver there are a lot of very important things you would need to know to build a safe unit. For instance, the compressor can not use fossil based lubrication, which would be toxic if it entered the air supply. You certainly wouldn't want a motor that could possibly heat up enough to introduce toxic additions to your air.
The quality of the fittings and the storage container are also things to consider if longevity is of interest to you. I had all the qualifications and knowledge to build my own unit but instead used them to pick what I thought would be the safest and longest lasting commercially produced rig. After all, you will be saving a considerable amount of money in the long run so the initial cost would be returned many times over, just a bit more slowly if you purchased a commercially produced rig.
A toilet paper tube, taped up on one end, with a thumb size hole poked in the side, with a piece of tin foil pushed into it, to form the bowl, works really well, and costs nothing.
You do not need to dive to scrape your bottom. I use an eight inch flexible stainless steel scraper mounted on an 8 ft pole. Working entirely from the surface in mask snorkel and flippers I can clean my bottom in one hour. I am an old fart with a 44 ft monohull so have a rest after doing one side.
I get the hull 99% clean and the prop about 80%.
While I CAN fit a new shaft anode I do pay a diver to do this every year if required. But I usually haul every year.
TOP TIP Mount the scraper at a slight angle say 20 degrees so you can flip it over to do the curves.
You do not need to dive to scrape your bottom. I use an eight inch flexible stainless steel scraper mounted on an 8 ft pole. Working entirely from the surface in mask snorkel and flippers I can clean my bottom in one hour. I am an old fart with a 44 ft monohull so have a rest after doing one side.
I get the hull 99% clean and the prop about 80%.
While I CAN fit a new shaft anode I do pay a diver to do this every year if required. But I usually haul every year.
TOP TIP Mount the scraper at a slight angle say 20 degrees so you can flip it over to do the curves.
I have never used a scraper on my hull, and probably never will. I am not sure how you can reach the entire hull and effectively clean it from the surface, and what about the keel?
I have used a mask and snorkel to clean the bottom of my 30 footer for years, and it definitely required many dives to do it properly.
Cleaning and inspecting the prop, prop shaft, strut on my new boat will also take multiple dives, and every five I can hold my breath for a shorter time. It is quite exhausting.
A hookah is the perfect solution for bottom maintenance imho.
Tank stays in the boat, is easy to maneuver. You might experience difficulty filling tanks if not certified, however, I have never been asked for my C-Card for filling tanks........
Tank stays in the boat, is easy to maneuver. You might experience difficulty filling tanks if not certified, however, I have never been asked for my C-Card for filling tanks........
Yeah I have a friend who is a diver, and he uses a setup like that when he does boat bottoms. The problem is, you still need to store the tank. An air compressor in a little box stows away much easier.
Since the Admiral and I are both certified divers, we carry 4 dive tanks on the boat. Carrying, stowing and getting them refilled is a routine that we would do even if I didn't clean the bottom.
We did consider these guy's because they are local to us:
Those look like really nice set-ups, but if I bought one of those I'd have to give up my Porta Power and my 3/4 & 1" socket sets to make room to stow it. Oh, the choices we on small boats must make! lol
We have on board a scuba tank but rarely use it. It is not for recreation but for freeing the anchor or chain in very deep situations. In Indonesia, there were areas where it is common to anchor in 60 to 80 feet. About 3 times a week I had to dig out the scuba tank to do down and unwind the chain or unsnag the anchor from the rocks. Otherwise, we use the Seabreathe 12 volt hookah. It is a double hose set up but using one hose will get me down to only about 35 feet. That is no problem as it is really only used for cleaning the hull or changing zincs. I could not imagine living on a boat and not having a hookah...not the tin can type, the 12volt model.
I have built and used hookah systems in my business for over 24 years. All the components of a high-quality rig are easily sourced and assembled by anybody reading this thread. You can build your own hookah that is essentially identical to the best commercially available units and do it for a fraction of the retail cost.
But aren't you the guy who advocates (and uses) a tank with a long hose to scrub the bottom of boats in a marina, not at anchor or even working on something underwater on a boat offshore?
I don't disagree that it can be done more cheaply in the states, by someone who actually knows how to do so safely, but should one need parts, it is nice to have the manufacturer who built the unit and carries exact spares to ship them directly to one if one is far afield. That alone could be well worth the difference in price!
Maybe I would have made my own if I knew where to get the 12 volt components. What we did get was a Seabreathe. Here is a video about it and how it works. I used it a couple times in the Bahamas, with a car battery in the dinghy, but it was too cumbersome and really not needed for such shallow diving. Going straight down, with no angle to the air hose, my maximum depth is at 30 feet. I just use the hookah for cleaning the bottom and anchor chain.
Actually now that I have had time to look for those thomas compressors, it looks like that Air Line system you linked to is not a bad deal! You get the whole setup for just a few hundred more than the compressor itself.
I will have to see if any of my suppliers can get me wholesale pricing on the compressor.
Actually now that I have had time to look for those thomas compressors, it looks like that Air Line system you linked to is not a bad deal! You get the whole setup for just a few hundred more than the compressor itself.
You should shop around. Grainger is getting top dollar for that compressor. You can do better, I bet. For instance, Grainger wants $891 for the compressor I use (Thomas 1207PK80) and I've seen it advertised online for over $1000. However I buy it directly from Thomas for about $350.
In marinas along the AICW that we have visited the bottom cleaning guys mostly used hookahs of various construction..except the ones here in Daytona Beach. When asked why they didn’t use a hooka system..their answer..they didn’t want to be out of business if their system breaks down..nor wanted the expense of owning two.. It’s easier and more reliable..or so they said..to just use air tanks with about 100 feet of hose attached.. However if diving for pleasure.. they said..they’d prefer a hooka system..
Different strokes and everything is a compromise. Me- since pretty much all of my work is done in marinas or at private docks, shorepower is always available and I enjoy having unlimited free air and the small, lightweight footprint that a hookah affords. Bottles need constant refilling, so there is the time and cost of that and of course, are relatively large and definitely heavy. But if you need to swim from boat-to-boat or work where shorepower is an issue, they're the way to go.
As far as hookah reliability goes, only someone who has never used one or has been saddled with an inferior unit would question that.
Not to toot my own horn or anything but I'm a professional too. I have turned bichin and moaning into an art form, not only that but I'm a prity good spellar too. and my grammer and punktuation is neerly perfict. So if anyone out thar needs help rightin a comment by all meens just gimmie a holler, i'd be happy to hep.
All seriousness aside, I have really enjoyed this post. Thanks Guys......
Now where did I put that pen with the 9 pound hammer in it?
Capta, Here is a heads up on Seabreathe. My Seabreathe, dual, deck mount, 12volt hookah, recently stopped working. None of the manufacturers suggestions could get it working again. I took it to an electrical shop and they said a brush had broken. Brushes are available from Seabreathe but also the unit needed a brush holder, which is not available. Replacing brushes is not user or repair man friendly as one would expect. So the unit is trash now. You should not read this next part......I think the only option for me now is to look locally, here in Africa, unfortunately not on Grainger, for a 12 volt, oil less air pump to connect to the system. I don't need as large capacity compressor as the original as I only need to go down deep enough to clean the hull.
I am sorry for your predicament and feel your pain. I also have had equipment aboard vessels I've operated from reputable manufacturers that have failed and the company has failed to resolve the problem at all, most notably and consistently, Raymarine!
You act like Divemasters aren’t a dime a dozen and a job that a 20-something takes for $15/hour at a resort somewhere. Anybody can take enough classes to be a Divemaster and I guarantee that in the world of working divers, that certification is meaningless.
But more to the point; you made some bold statements here, impugned my expertise and integrity while doing it and now refuse to back up your claim that a DIY hookah is somehow dangerous to use. But I get it- you’re the kind that likes to throw a few rocks, act like some kind of expert and then run away when somebody calls you out on your bullsh*t. Good to know.
I got the following information on a DIY hookah from a friend who posted it elsewhere:
1) California Air Tools 2010ALFC Ultra Quiet, Oil-Free & Lightweight. 1.0 hp Industrial Air Compressor, 2.0 gallon, 35 lbs $255 4.00 CFM at 40 PSI & 3.00 CFM at 90 PSI; Max 125 PSI. Ultra Quiet 60 decibels
4000 hour motor life. MP100LF motor/pump. 110V 60 Hz - 7.6 Amps. 1400 RPM
2.0 Gallon Aluminum (Rust-Free) Air Tank.
L (17.3") x W (14.2") x H (14.6")
2) Campbell Hausfeld MP513803av filter / water separator $16.29
3) 75 foot certified air breathing hose scuba/ hookah with Cressi regulator with Walmec quick connects.
Cressi Octopus XS2 is a 2nd stage with adjustable air flow. From GatorGillunit.com $289
4) 360 Degree Swivel Scuba Diving 2nd Stage Octo Regulator Adapter $25 on ebay
I get 2 minutes of breathing just from what's in the 2 gal. tank before the compressor starts to fill again.
This compressor is so amazingly quiet.
Note: You could save another $100 if you purchased the California Air Tools 2010A instead of the 2010ALFC Industrial Series
I rarely visit this forum any longer. Some of you just seem to want to argue with anyone who doesn't agree with your last post...... Instead of , at least, giving helpful info.
The original poster hasn't made even a single peep since the original post, yet you guys are bickering and have eight pages of BS. Most of it not helpful to anyone who wants a hookah system..............
Just as I thought, more BS.............. Not very helpful either.... Just like most of the responses in this thread. Which toilet paper do you like, because I really want to know.........
The most important thing you must know is the quality of the air you’re putting in your lungs. Lung diseases can take decades to manifest. If you can figure that out on your own, go for it. I wonder if there is a practical way to test any of these units, either DIY or OEM.
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