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post #1 of 12 Old 02-13-2019 Thread Starter
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GFO packing

So far I have used standard greased felt in our common gland and nut type stuffing box . No problems but as you all know they leak , plus I think I have been running it a little to loose . It leaks pretty good when under way but not at all when the engine is off . No bother at all really because I know the shaft is running cool .
My friend the Magic Don swears by this stuff GFO , Don also has the same box as me . He sets it up tight enough that there is no leak when the engine is running and reports that the box runs cool . I'm skeptical of this .
Question , do you use it ? How do you set it up ? Thanks for your consideration .
PS I do not want to invest in a drip less type box .

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._rd_i=16310091

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Last edited by Markwesti; 02-13-2019 at 10:26 PM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 02-14-2019
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Re: GFO packing

When we had a stuffing box, I used that exclusively. Great stuff - no drips and the shaft runs cool. Never wore out either. Basically a dripless box for a couple of dollars.

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Re: GFO packing

The Gore packing is an engineered sort of teflon packing material, the same way that Gore "engineered" a teflon-type material with micropores and made GoreTex.

It has the incredible advantage of not requiring special spares to be shipped in when you want to repack it, just take another couple feet off the shelf, or replace with conventional packing if there's nothing else at hand.

There's also a "teflon putty" for packing, similar concept.
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post #4 of 12 Old 02-14-2019
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Re: GFO packing

So how do I know what size packing is required? Do I measure the shaft diameter , measure the inside diameter of the stuffing box, subtract the two, then divide that sum by two? Such as, shaft 1 inch, inside diameter 1.5 inch, difference .5 divided by 2 is 1/4 inch. Is it that simple? I want to make sure I get it right. Also does one cut three lengths and pack or just one long length then wrap around the shaft three times then pack?

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post #5 of 12 Old 02-14-2019
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Re: GFO packing

Pretty much.
How To Install The GFO Packing Material | GFO Packing
For all the gory details. (Pun intended.)
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post #6 of 12 Old 02-14-2019
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Re: GFO packing

I've always used the old fashioned flax and tallow Minimum 3 separate turns, staggered joints .Over tighten a bit to firm things up ,Back off till it drips. Adjust to taste. A couple of degrees of turn can be a lot. Use two wrenches locking the nut to avoid torquing the hose. Inspection is part of maintenance. I suspect that similar common sense procedure will work with teflon too. (check for shaft wear and possible fatigue/overheating fissures while its open)
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Re: GFO packing

Len-
The whole idea of GFO is that it is just "old fashioned flax, version 2.0" and while it will lubricate better, run cooler, and allow for less dripping, is is "just flax" as far as the installation and maintenance are concerned. For the same reasons that steam valves are also packed with plastics these days, instead of the old flax.
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Re: GFO packing

Hello sailor.Fully agree but there's packing and packing For example ,steam stuff was often packed with a graphite /flaxpacking. (tallow melts off) This didn't work well in salt water applications. So good to know what's what and why.
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post #9 of 12 Old 02-19-2019
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Re: GFO packing

Just a heads up as I have been doing some research on this lately (I've got my shaft pulled for the cutless, and am rebuilding my stuffing box while it's out).

The graphite packing can react to some shaft metals, I believe bronze was a "for sure" and some types of stainless. So be sure it will work for you. Also, I thought the dripping wasn't only meant to cool and show it's "not too tight" but also to ensure fresh oxygenated water is moving over the shaft where the packing is in contact to prevent crevice corrosion. Wouldn't the lack of a drip mean crevice corrosion can start in that area?

EDIT: I've bought regular PTFE coated flax packing for my box, it's cheap and worked before so I figure why fix it if it ain't broke. I should also note I'm in freshwater so any dripping into my boat isn't as stinky or corrosive as my fellow salt water sailors.
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Re: GFO packing

"Wouldn't the lack of a drip mean crevice corrosion can start in that area?"
I suspect there's a difference between totally dripless, and plain dripless. And that the water in the prop shaft log is still not really 'stagnant' but there is some circulation simply from the rotary action of the shaft, normally having one end in seawater anyway.
You'd have to ask the makers to see if they are aware of these things and have done any tests or had any failure claims.
As to graphite attacking stainless, my understanding is that the rotary shaft seals on almost everything, from a/c compressors to electric propellor motors, consist of a graphite disk firmly pressed against a felt or stainless bushing, with the graphite eventually wearing out, but never harming the stainless.

One less thing to worry about if you "Go Pardey" and go without an engine.(G)
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