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post #11 of 31 Old 02-24-2019
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Re: light switches

Every electrical connection on our boat was done by me. Once made, every single one gets a liberal shot of Boeshields T9 even those shrink tubed. I have never had a corroded electrical connection.

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post #12 of 31 Old 02-24-2019
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Re: light switches

Two thoughts,,, Light flickers ? pull switch away from box and jump terminals with a U of wire. Still flicker? Maybe you were sold not 12 volt LED's. .Mabe the build in resister is not the right one for 12v. I once installed masthead lights 24 v out of boxes the were labeled as12 V @##[email protected]
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post #13 of 31 Old 02-25-2019
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Re: light switches

capta-
There's a lot of big name junk, like Leviton (which is all Home Depot carries) made in Mexico out of tin cans found in the streets, apparently. It looks just like the good stuff, just fails to perform or endure.
If the wiring allowed for "push in" connections, those just make a knife-edge contact with solid household wiring--not great to start with, worse with stranded marine wiring. So it could be a high resistance in the switch contacts.
If you have that, pull the wires out, check & clean, then insert them under the regular screw terminal fittings. That may clear it up.
If that doesn't clear it up, try bypassing the switch (wire jumper) just to made totally sure that everything else cannot be part of the problem.
If those happen to be the fancy switches that have the ability to DIM household lights? They'd be problematic. Sometimes they look just the same.
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post #14 of 31 Old 02-25-2019
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Re: light switches

Quote:
Originally Posted by boatpoker View Post
I have never had a corroded electrical connection.


Indeed!





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post #15 of 31 Old 02-25-2019
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Re: light switches

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Indeed!





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My engine compartments are kept in a state of perpetual perfection. 20,000hrs on this perkins when the photo was taken. Corrosion is not acceptable
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post #16 of 31 Old 02-25-2019
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Re: light switches

Motor looks great boatpoker. This is probably simplistic but one of my lights flickered, sometimes. I switched it with another and the flickering followed the bulb...nothing to do with wiring or sockets etc.
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post #17 of 31 Old 02-26-2019
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Re: light switches

I have a switch at home that turns on two 12V LED lights inside a lazy susan cabinet in our kitchen. The switch is in the 12V wiring and closes when the door is open. The lights flicker and flash at times. I would expect something to be getting hot or making noise, but I have never found anything. Anyway, after reading this thread I went looking.

Eaton has a switch training manual

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Referenc...ing_Manual.pdf

which discusses "Basic Switch Mechanisms" on pages 5 and 6. They divide the mechanisms into two types: 1) Slow make, slow break (AC base) with butt contacts. The contacts in these switches come together like two goats butting heads. And 2) Quick make, quick break (AC/DC base) where the movable contact physically wipes across the stationary contact and the resultant abrasive action cleans the contact surface, thereby minimizing contact resistance.

A picture of the interior of a Coopers rocker home switch shows butt contacts.


It looks to me like the house switch has butt contacts and might have dirty surfaces on the contacts which the small current flow at a low voltage is unable to burn through. ...especially in a marine environment.

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post #18 of 31 Old 02-26-2019
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Re: light switches

Have you tried jumpering the switch yet? That one simple test will end all the speculation!

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post #19 of 31 Old 02-26-2019
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Re: light switches

the problem with the DC rated wall switches is all the money you save by running a LED light is spent in buying the DC switch. we found this out when installing a solar/ battery system with led lights in mountain cabin that had no power the switches were about $35 a piece so we only installed two.

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post #20 of 31 Old 02-28-2019 Thread Starter
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Re: light switches

Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
capta-
There's a lot of big name junk, like Leviton (which is all Home Depot carries) made in Mexico out of tin cans found in the streets, apparently. It looks just like the good stuff, just fails to perform or endure.
If the wiring allowed for "push in" connections, those just make a knife-edge contact with solid household wiring--not great to start with, worse with stranded marine wiring. So it could be a high resistance in the switch contacts.
If you have that, pull the wires out, check & clean, then insert them under the regular screw terminal fittings. That may clear it up.
If that doesn't clear it up, try bypassing the switch (wire jumper) just to made totally sure that everything else cannot be part of the problem.
If those happen to be the fancy switches that have the ability to DIM household lights? They'd be problematic. Sometimes they look just the same.
No, they are not dimmers, just what Pearson installed. When I physically push the top of the switch in (the on position) the flickering stops. I know they are cheap switches, but is there any option in that configuration? If I could open them, I might be able to bend the spring to make better contact, but I do not believe they can be opened, and then closed.
It is physically not an option to change to another type of switch w/o a lot of woodworking and labor.
But thanks all for the input.
We're pretty much back to back with charters for a while, so in-depth testing will have to wait.

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