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post #21 of 31 Old 02-28-2019
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Re: light switches

If the flicker is enough bother Consider the blank plates that replace the switch in that panel Some are outlets for the co-ax cable outlet. (round hole in center)Any toggle switch could be employed .Automotive type off/on 's may be attractive enough but require a bit of whittling of the plastic. Ive taken apart those swiches. imo not user friendly
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post #22 of 31 Old 02-28-2019
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Re: light switches

The suggestion that they are "button" contacts and not self-wiping, so there cold just be dirt in there preventing a clean contact, sounds very possible. I had an intercom in the apartment wall, pre-WW2 construction, where the "talk" button never made good contact. Opened it up one day to find the switch bodies weren't even enclosed, and just fine black dust accumulating in the conduit after 50 years had coated the contacts. If that is what is happening with you? I think those Leviton "designer" switches are still standard sizes, can be replaced with any household switch (and possibly new cover plate) for a whole $5 each. Or plain switches, under a buck each. Opening them up to clean them out and apply DeOxit or electrical contact grease, probably not worth the time and effort. Or maybe it is, given a marine environment and "household" products.
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post #23 of 31 Old 02-28-2019
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Re: light switches

I am going to stick in my two cents. What are you using for the negative side? Are you using for the negative bus bar from the batteries? Most of the problems I have encountered with flickering lights usually stems from a crappy negative side circuit.
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post #24 of 31 Old 03-01-2019 Thread Starter
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Re: light switches

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Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
The suggestion that they are "button" contacts and not self-wiping, so there cold just be dirt in there preventing a clean contact, sounds very possible. I had an intercom in the apartment wall, pre-WW2 construction, where the "talk" button never made good contact. Opened it up one day to find the switch bodies weren't even enclosed, and just fine black dust accumulating in the conduit after 50 years had coated the contacts. If that is what is happening with you? I think those Leviton "designer" switches are still standard sizes, can be replaced with any household switch (and possibly new cover plate) for a whole $5 each. Or plain switches, under a buck each. Opening them up to clean them out and apply DeOxit or electrical contact grease, probably not worth the time and effort. Or maybe it is, given a marine environment and "household" products.
A) I do not believe these can be opened, though to more exact, they certainly can be opened lol, but probably not put back together.
B) I have stated that every one has been replaced in the last year and it changed nothing.
Putting pressure on the on side does solve the problem, so I'm guessing it is just ta they don't have a strong enough spring, and was hoping someone had a quick fix. At most, it is bothersome, and will probably shorten the life if the fixture.
If I can find some DeoxIT and can figure out a way to get it into the fixture, I will try that.

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post #25 of 31 Old 03-01-2019 Thread Starter
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Re: light switches

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Originally Posted by boatpoker View Post
We have 6 of those switches running four LED strips and 11 separate LED lights ...... no problems.
Well, if you have 6 operating sub 1 amp 12vdc circuits faultlessly, then that answers that question for me, thanks.

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post #26 of 31 Old 03-01-2019
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Re: light switches

I wonder... if you put a 1000 mfd electrolytic capacitor between the + and - wiring downstream of the switch and in parallel with the LED lights, would the momentary high inrush current of the capacitor charging burn through the contamination on the contacts and let you get by with switch contacts that are not "wiping".

Any EEs out there?

Bill

Last edited by wsmurdoch; 03-01-2019 at 07:32 PM.
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post #27 of 31 Old 03-01-2019
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Re: light switches

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Originally Posted by wsmurdoch View Post
I wonder... if you put a 1000 mfd electrolytic capacitor between the + and - wiring downstream of the switch and in parallel with the LED lights, would the momentary high inrush current of the capacitor charging burn through the contamination on the contacts and let you get by with switch contacts that are not "wiping".

Any EEs out there?

Bill
I wonder how long it would take for the LED to go out after you turn off the switch in that case...


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post #28 of 31 Old 03-01-2019
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Re: light switches

Then maybe put a resistor in parallel with the capacitor and the LED fades to off.
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post #29 of 31 Old 03-01-2019
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Re: light switches

Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmurdoch View Post
I wonder... if you put a 1000 mfd electrolytic capacitor between the + and - wiring downstream of the switch and in parallel with the LED lights, would the momentary high inrush current of the capacitor charging burn through the contamination on the contacts and let you get by with switch contacts that are not "wiping".

Any EEs out there?

Bill
In a nutshell no.


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post #30 of 31 Old 03-06-2019
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Re: light switches

I find it absolutely scary how the ads in the corners of things I look at on the internet are targeted EXACTLY at me. It is obvious that I am being watched. There is one hell of a computer running somewhere.

This showed up just now.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...itch-box/1244/

While it is not exactly a household rocker wall switch like yours, it is pretty close. It should fit in a normal wall box with your cover plate, and it is purpose built for 12V dc LEDs. The ability to dim might be a plus. Candle light, good food, bottle of wine... you never know what might happen.

Bill
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