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post #1 of 7 Old 03-26-2019 Thread Starter
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Teak

I've recently purchased a 1982 Catalina 30'. My first keel boat. Boat had been let go. Had to redo the electrical in November. Spent money and had the hull scraped, filled, epoxied, and painted.


The deck teak is in shabby shape. Can I get advice on best ways to treat the wood. Should I sand and stain with Sikkens? Others tell me to sand and oil three or four times during the season. I've been told to sand and leave the wood gray.


And whether I stain or oil, should I be removing the wood from the boat to do the work, or tape up the deck and do the staining or oiling with wood in place?


What about thin wood with cracks at the ends? There is a bar that my dodger snaps to that is splitting at each end. Does this have to be replaced or can it by repaired? Epoxy?
What are the pros and cons?


Thanks.
Brian
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post #2 of 7 Old 03-27-2019
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Re: Teak

Removing teak decks is not an option unless you are taking on a major refit.

Whether you stain, oil or leave natural is a preference. Once you deviate from natural you are committing to much higher maintenance.

You should post some pics of the cracked wood.

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post #3 of 7 Old 03-27-2019
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Re: Teak

I think this is a personal choice and a balance between the look that you like and the amount of effort that you want to put into it. Everyone is different but I'll share my thought process, not that its the right answer but just to give you an idea of what I weighed and how I balanced it out.

Phase 1: coatings. I started with products that I'd classify as protective coatings. These are a bit finicky to apply. youll have to tape off areas, youll need thinner, good brushes, a good weather window, and time.
- Varnish is beautiful and deep. I think that Varnish is by far the most beautiful finish. But I found that it required a lot of upkeep. It's fairly soft and once damaged it will bubble and flake. you sand and recoat to repair.
- Cetol. much tougher than varnish. Its no easier to apply than varnish but you use fewer layers. it easily lasts 2 seasons. Its best to sand it down before recoating (same as varnish). repairs are similar to varnish too. But Cetol looks (to my eyes) pasticy and dull. you can buff it out but it will never be as beautiful or as "deep" as varnish.

phase 2: bare teak. after years of phase 1 I was tired! I saw a few boats with bare teak and I decided to try it. I sanded off the cetol and went bare for 2 years.

Note that sanding off cetl gives you a real appreciation of how tough that coating is!

I just did not like the look of bare teak. To me it looked shabby. the "silver" grey is not awful really but just not to my taste. Worse, the grain began to raise and felt rough. then dirt collects in the low spots and looked even more shabby. I hear that folks maintain bare teak with salt water rinses. I assure you that my teak was frequently rinsed with salt water. but in the end this look just did not work for me.

phase 3: uv stabilized oil. Semco.
- I decided to try Semco an oil. I heard that straight teak oil will oxidize and turn dark, but Semco is UV stabilized and does not turn dark. Its easy to apply, a brush and/or rag. spills wipe up off of fiberglass easily. It is *not* glossy, its a matte finish. it is not as beautiful as a well done varnish job. But it's quite nice and to my eyes much nicer looking than Cetol. And as it ages and wears it simply fades away. it does not go thorugh that awful chipping and flaking stage like Varnish and cetol will.







the high wear areas (handrails, toe rail where I step to enter and exit the boat) will need to be re-applied once or twice in a season. but this is literally a 10 minute job. I'll usually do it while underway when I'm bored waiting for the winds to fill in again.

To me, the beauty scale is:
Varnish is a 10
Semco is an 8 (maybe a 9)
fading semco 7.5
cetol 6
bare teak a 5
chipped flaking varnish a 3
chipped flaking cetol 1
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post #4 of 7 Old 03-27-2019
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Re: Teak

Pics would help. I'm surprised that a Catalina 30 has teak decks. Job one is to determine whether they leak. If they're screwed down, I'm sure they do. It's just a matter how badly. If they are individual thick planks (again I'd be surprised) the caulking may need to be reefed out, reapplied and the deck fully sanded. Depends on how old and whether it's ever been done before.

Treating the teak is fairly useless, unless you're treating something that is sound.


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post #5 of 7 Old 03-28-2019
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Re: Teak

I think the owner is referring to teak out side? !
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Re: Teak

Very interesting!
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post #7 of 7 Old 03-29-2019
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Re: Teak

No, a C-30 does not have teak decks. The OP is referring to the teak brightwork on his deck.

I used to have a C-30, so I have some experience here. When I bought my 30, my teak was in need af attention as well. I took my handrails off as they were easy to remove and brought them home to work on in my garage over the winter as well as my companionway slats and anything else that was fairly easy to remove.
I went the varnish route and it really looked nice.
My next boat was a C-34 and I did Cetol on it. If I ever have to do it again, which I won't, I would go the Cetol route. I did 3 coats of the natural finish and 3 coats of glossy finish and it really looked good, not quite as good as varnish, but lasted a lot longer and a light sanding and another coat or two every other year will keep it up. Much easier than keeping up varnish.

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