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-   -   Filling large holes in teak rub rail (https://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/329056-filling-large-holes-teak-rub-rail.html)

overbored 04-04-2019 10:26 PM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
under your situation where you do not have the skills or time to do the wood working then I would fill the voids with polyester resin with a coloring pigment to some what match the wood when varnished. do not use epoxy as it will turn very dark from the sun even under varnish. gelcoat is also a way to match the color and fill the voids. sand the wood around the repair and then varnish all but the void and then it is easier to match the color. we use to do this as a temporary repair and there are some of those repairs that have lasted 30 years or more. if your color match is good no one will notice unless they are really looking close. another way to hide it would be to patch and mount a piece of hardware as a cleat a pad eye over the patch can never have enough pad eyes. even a blank ss or bronze plate can hid a patch and only you will no why it is there, looks nautical.. the old sailing ships carpenter would nail a copper plate over the damage on hull and deck to fix a leak at sea

MacBlaze 04-05-2019 12:39 PM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
Not that I recommend these guys as DIY experts but the video is worth a watch to see how teak sawdust and epoxy work together...


Uncle Bob the 1st 04-07-2019 12:40 AM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by krisscross (Post 2051593596)
I’m restoring a boat with good amount of dock rash (hurricane damage). Entire sections of rub and cap rail had to be cut off and replaced. The work is still going on but in the end I will have a bunch of dings and gouges in teak that I have to somehow fill in and fair in preparation for some sort of final coat of varnish. I was thinking of using epoxy thickened with short chopped fiberglass. Some surfaces are horizontal (cap rail) and some - actually most of them are - vertical (rub rail). The rub rail will be topped with 1.25 inch wide stainless steel rub strip.
Any better ideas?

Having read most of the posts, I would be inclined to suggest that you are unlikely to achieve a finnish that will appear pristine so perhaps filling the divots with a good epoxy filler, fairing to match the timber and then painting it with a solid colour reminiscent of varnished teak or a grey reminiscent of weathered teak. The boat will look good and the finnish will last longer than varnish.:smile

paulk 04-07-2019 08:38 AM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
Have to agree that any epoxy filler, epoxy mixed with colorant, epoxy mixed with sawdust, will start out looking mediocre and immediately begin looking worse. We used some for spots on our deck and ended up having to paint the entire deck. Use epoxy if you don't mind painting the teak.

Fitting better dutchmen (that's what filling in with the same material is called) or graving pieces looks easy if you do it this way: Using a pattern the way they do in the video would enable you to make as many patching pieces as you needed all the same, and then rout out all the gouges. The elongated shape helps to hide the patch along the wood grain. The plywood pattern makes the depth of the routing even everywhere so the patch sits properly in it. The epoxy in the video is simply glue - it isn't going to show.


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