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krisscross 04-03-2019 04:43 PM

Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
Iím restoring a boat with good amount of dock rash (hurricane damage). Entire sections of rub and cap rail had to be cut off and replaced. The work is still going on but in the end I will have a bunch of dings and gouges in teak that I have to somehow fill in and fair in preparation for some sort of final coat of varnish. I was thinking of using epoxy thickened with short chopped fiberglass. Some surfaces are horizontal (cap rail) and some - actually most of them are - vertical (rub rail). The rub rail will be topped with 1.25 inch wide stainless steel rub strip.
Any better ideas?

SanderO 04-03-2019 04:47 PM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
can't recommend without seeing photos.

krisscross 04-03-2019 05:01 PM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
2 Attachment(s)
Two examples of horizontal areas. One small gap and one large gouge.

RegisteredUser 04-03-2019 05:37 PM

I cant see it very well.
Is it too large for sawdust and glue?

krisscross 04-03-2019 06:54 PM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
Yes, itís hard to show it in a picture. I was thinking of possibly using wood powder mixed with some glue but what kind of glue to use? A lot of them shrink and most would flow down the vertical surfaces. Altogether itís quite a bit of material that has to be used in order to fill all the spots.

RegisteredUser 04-03-2019 07:03 PM

Take a look at TiteBond III and see if that would handle UVs. Can be masked and sanded
Use the damaged take offs to make the sawdust....same wood
You mix thick like a putty

roverhi 04-03-2019 09:19 PM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
Don't think filling the dings with resin based filler will pass the varnish test. The repairs will stand out and you'll be stuck trying to maintain it. Would paint the woodwork and be done with it.

krisscross 04-03-2019 10:51 PM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by roverhi (Post 2051593632)
Don't think filling the dings with resin based filler will pass the varnish test. The repairs will stand out and you'll be stuck trying to maintain it. Would paint the woodwork and be done with it.

Yes, I was thinking of a colored/stain like varnish to blend it all into a more uniform color. But filling the holes still has to be done first.

celenoglu 04-04-2019 02:24 AM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
Use fresh saw dust of teak inside epoxy. This will be the best matching material.

overbored 04-04-2019 02:33 AM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
I would repair the wood with proper joints and the repair pieces that fit with a tight joint the same as you would if building a boat. any thing else is going to be a half ass job and will stand out and look bad.

Gladrags1 04-04-2019 05:32 AM

How about making plugs out of teak and gluing them into bad areas on the rubrail that you drill out? Then sand everything smooth.

SanderO 04-04-2019 07:13 AM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gladrags1 (Post 2051593668)
How about making plugs out of teak and gluing them into bad areas on the rubrail that you drill out? Then sand everything smooth.

You can buy plug cutter (circle cutters) for various diameters. Larger ones will require a 1/2" drill and better a drill press.

You then drill a clean hole, insert the appropriate sized plug and sand.

krisscross 04-04-2019 07:14 AM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by overbored (Post 2051593664)
I would repair the wood with proper joints and the repair pieces that fit with a tight joint the same as you would if building a boat. any thing else is going to be a half ass job and will stand out and look bad.

That is a huge job, difficult and very expensive. I hired a carpenter only to get scammed as the guy was absolutely pathetic while charging me 50 bucks an hour. When I asked him to show some results before I pay him again, he got offended and quit. I could not find anyone else to do it so I am struck doing it myself.

krisscross 04-04-2019 07:17 AM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gladrags1 (Post 2051593668)
How about making plugs out of teak and gluing them into bad areas on the rubrail that you drill out? Then sand everything smooth.

The areas requiring repairs have irregular shapes and some are long gaps between wood. Would be hard to fill them with plugs.

justified 04-04-2019 01:24 PM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
Kriss

sorry but it sounds like you got gouged( I know bad pun). I would have to agree with Overbored if not done with tight joints it will always stand out and you won't be happy. Its not as hard as you might think with the correct tools. Get yourself a small trim router with a streight end mill bit, and a couple good quality wood chisels. and a block plane. You will be able to control the router with the streight mill bit it won't want to walk on its own. set up some guides and you will get nice streight square cut and joints. Use a good quality epoxy you can add teak sand/saw dust to it to fill small gaps. Epxoy is not UV protected so will need varnish on top. Wipe your joints with acid tone to cut the natural teak oils for better adhesion. A pro in no time....maybe even pay yourself $50 an hour.

TomMaine 04-04-2019 02:05 PM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
If you just want to fill the voids with epoxy, use a typical fairing filler (West) that is close to or lighter than the surrounding wood.

Add epoxy color (brown - in a small tube), to get as close a match as possible. Sand, varnish.

mike dryver 04-04-2019 03:42 PM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
If you know how to use a router, rout the areas out, then make pieces to fit snugly, then epoxy in place. It will look like crap, any other way ! It is not a hard job just a little time consuming ! You could even do it with a circular saw, to get most of it down to level, then finish with a chisel !

krisscross 04-04-2019 05:28 PM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
The router might work on the cap rail but not on the rub rail. Rub rail is rather thin (7/16Ē) and of course vertical. And that is where most of the damage is, and where most repairs are needed.

paulinnanaimo 04-04-2019 06:00 PM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
I think replacing the wood as suggested is the only remedy if you want to keep the stained or varnished look. But there are some very nice looking boats with painted finishes, this would allow filling the gouges in any number of ways, sanding smooth, and painting.

Scotty C-M 04-04-2019 06:43 PM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
One of the nice things about wood is that it comes from living organisms. It has dark spots, lines, and yes, imperfections. While larger areas would lend themselves to routing out strips and setting in veneers, smaller areas might just be fine with filling and sanding. Teak dust in epoxy fills a good color. Yes, they will show different shades of color, but if done well, it could look nice.

overbored 04-04-2019 09:26 PM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
under your situation where you do not have the skills or time to do the wood working then I would fill the voids with polyester resin with a coloring pigment to some what match the wood when varnished. do not use epoxy as it will turn very dark from the sun even under varnish. gelcoat is also a way to match the color and fill the voids. sand the wood around the repair and then varnish all but the void and then it is easier to match the color. we use to do this as a temporary repair and there are some of those repairs that have lasted 30 years or more. if your color match is good no one will notice unless they are really looking close. another way to hide it would be to patch and mount a piece of hardware as a cleat a pad eye over the patch can never have enough pad eyes. even a blank ss or bronze plate can hid a patch and only you will no why it is there, looks nautical.. the old sailing ships carpenter would nail a copper plate over the damage on hull and deck to fix a leak at sea

MacBlaze 04-05-2019 11:39 AM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
Not that I recommend these guys as DIY experts but the video is worth a watch to see how teak sawdust and epoxy work together...


Uncle Bob the 1st 04-06-2019 11:40 PM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by krisscross (Post 2051593596)
Iím restoring a boat with good amount of dock rash (hurricane damage). Entire sections of rub and cap rail had to be cut off and replaced. The work is still going on but in the end I will have a bunch of dings and gouges in teak that I have to somehow fill in and fair in preparation for some sort of final coat of varnish. I was thinking of using epoxy thickened with short chopped fiberglass. Some surfaces are horizontal (cap rail) and some - actually most of them are - vertical (rub rail). The rub rail will be topped with 1.25 inch wide stainless steel rub strip.
Any better ideas?

Having read most of the posts, I would be inclined to suggest that you are unlikely to achieve a finnish that will appear pristine so perhaps filling the divots with a good epoxy filler, fairing to match the timber and then painting it with a solid colour reminiscent of varnished teak or a grey reminiscent of weathered teak. The boat will look good and the finnish will last longer than varnish.:smile

paulk 04-07-2019 07:38 AM

Re: Filling large holes in teak rub rail
 
Have to agree that any epoxy filler, epoxy mixed with colorant, epoxy mixed with sawdust, will start out looking mediocre and immediately begin looking worse. We used some for spots on our deck and ended up having to paint the entire deck. Use epoxy if you don't mind painting the teak.

Fitting better dutchmen (that's what filling in with the same material is called) or graving pieces looks easy if you do it this way: Using a pattern the way they do in the video would enable you to make as many patching pieces as you needed all the same, and then rout out all the gouges. The elongated shape helps to hide the patch along the wood grain. The plywood pattern makes the depth of the routing even everywhere so the patch sits properly in it. The epoxy in the video is simply glue - it isn't going to show.


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