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Stuffing box problems

4K views 34 replies 16 participants last post by  Uncle Bob 
#1 ·
My stuffing box is dripping at a rate of about two drops per second. When not running that is. It’s quite a lot more than before I started on this trip, about 100 engine hours ago. I tightened the packing as far as it would go but it made no difference. I probably need to replace the packing but now I can’t loose the nut :crying
The PO used Equalseal 100% GFO packing in 1/4” size.
The stuffing box looks like brass, with some oxidation on the surface.
How urgent is the repair or repacking? What stuff can I use to loosen the nut?
 
#2 ·
Urgency: If it drips at rest, I assume it also still drips when running? That being the case, you're not going to overheat the shaft so I don't think it's an emergency.

Brass is malleable so if overtightened, the contact surfaces mold to each other. The only way to separate them is good ole torque. Penetrating oil and the like will not get in there and I doubt you can put enough heat on it to make a difference while it's in the water...probably also a really bad idea to try even out of the water. A wrench on the nut and channel lock pliers or a pipe wrench to keep the body from rotating. You won't have to move it much for it to let go.

What size is the shaft?
 
#3 ·
Shaft is 1.25”
Would you change all packing or just add some to whatever is still there. Not to save the packing material but to avoid possible major leak while in water.
Access is just from above, not permitting much movement, maybe 1/16 of a turn. I have these two wrenches.
 

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#5 ·
Those look suspiciously like the exact right tools for the job.

It seems counterintuitive that 1/4 packing goes on a 1 1/4 inch shaft, but that's what the GFO site says. (https://www.emarineinc.com/categories/GFO-Marine-Shaft-Packing)

My guess is that the PO aligned the gaps in the stuffing, or maybe there's room for one more ring. If it was me going to the trouble to open it all up, I'd repack the whole thing so I knew it was done properly, rather than patch an unknown and risk having to do it again.
 
#7 · (Edited)
When I was looking at the IP 35's our broker said IP makes a tool that allows a bit more than a 1/16" turn. I googled it and have not been able to find this mystery tool, but may be worth a call to IP.

Check out Mack Sails (772) 283-2306, they are located in Stuart and service a ton of IP's. They probably have the mystery tool on hand!
 
#9 ·
I'll be interested to hear what you find. As I think about it, I think it's more likely that the PO didn't put enough rings on the shaft which is why you could have over tightened it to metal on metal.

Blaster, like @rbrasi said, will get at corrosion seizing, but I don't think that's what's going on since you've worked it fairly recently.
 
#10 ·
Work on the locking nut first. Clean the shaft before backing off the sliding bit while it gushes. Can be a bit disconcerting A length of bicycle inner tube quickly wrapped around the shaft may allow you to replace the staggered bits of new stuffing in relative non panic. There is a small tool like a corkscrew that helps groping for the old packing Can be tricky at arms length.
 
#11 ·
I called the Mack Yachts services that specializes in IP service. Maybe they have this magic tool. I will try the PB blaster. Neither the backing nut, nor the compressing nut are willing to move in any direction. Thank you for your suggestions.
 
#14 ·
If you are confident that the wrenches will not slip, and round the fittings, you could position the wrenches such that the handles are close together, and will loosen the nut when pressed together. Then, apply extra torque by putting some kind of clamp on the end of the wrench handles, and close the clamp.
 
#17 ·
When I repacked the stuffing box for the first time I had to use 2 pipe wrenchs with a piece of conduit over the handles to act as a cheater. You need to getEVERYbit of the old packing out. I did it with the boat in the water and I used a string coated with wax to stop the inflow of water once the nut was separated. I can't post the link but I think MaineSail had a page devoted to this on his site. I used Gore graphite flax and followed the procedure of cutting each wrap at a 45 for the seams and then rotating each seam 120 degrees (mine only calls for 3 wraps). Not having water coming into the boat well do wonders for your piece of mind! :wink

You may have noticed that I am a fan of using cheater bars. It's amazing what leverage can do.
 
#18 ·
I talked to Mack Yacht services about it. Colin Mack said that there is no magic tool and serious torque is required. Heating the nut might be necessary. And the movement is slow and torturous, as you have reposition the wrenches above and below the shaft to get them moving. Leveraging is often required.
The problem is that very few wrenches fit into the narrow space in the keel where the stuffing box is located.
The drip rate went down and bilge pump did not kick in more than once during the night.
I’m tempted to leave it alone until I haul out later this summer.
 
#20 ·
The drip rate went down and bilge pump did not kick in more than once during the night.
I'm tempted to leave it alone until I haul out later this summer.
Good idea.

I'm not a fan of doing "leaky" work on boats in the water unless it's an emergency with no option to haul out.

Look at the penalty for failure. I've seen horror stories about stuffing boxes breaking apart when torqued on, through hulls snapping off and so forth.
 
#21 ·
Colin can come across a little short and over confident, but he has had lots of experience with IP's...even has a youtube video or two on various IP repairs.

I love IP's but access to the stuffing box, chain plates and tanks are not as easy as they could be! Be patient.
 
#22 ·
Looking at the location of the stuffing box, there doesn’t appear to be a lot of room to swing those wrenches. And obviously you have to turn one full castellation each time. So what I would do is go and buy a ring spanner (not sure what you would call it in the US) that fits and cut out a portion of the ring big enough to allow it to go over the shaft.

Ring spanners are generally double-hex so each castellation is 30 degrees and not 60 as with your wrenches. This will give better access to the nut and will be an easier fit in the small space you have. Will also enable better positioning of the nut when adjusting the packing. A ring spanner that size will have a nice long shank for better leverage and a stout ring that won’t easily be deflected.

Another thing to consider is that turning the outer (main) nut before the lock nut is loose is counter-productive. Use a centre punch/hammer and knock that nut loose (counter-rotational) prior to trying to loosen the outer nut. That’s probably already been done, apologies for stating the obvious.
 
#25 ·
What he is describing sounds like a flare nut wrench only they don't come that big so you have to make your own.
 

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#27 ·
That's exactly what I was alluding to. On a large wrench, the wall thickness is substantial and thus pretty strong, certainly I reckon it would be stronger than the open ended wrenches shown in other posts even with a part of the ring cut away.

To be fair the flare nut wrench shown (I know them as pipe wrenches) are much thicker in the ring area than a normal wrench.
 
#26 ·
Hey this is something off topic but i need your help in regarding buying some power tools for my ketch as i am facing some problem while starting it and the engine stops working after 5-10 mins so can anyone suggest me some tools which will be required to repair it or should i repair it myself or should i take it to the mechanic. I have read this guide about tools but couldn't able to find anything specific , I am looking forward to have some tools list and also suggest me good brands.
 
#31 ·
I was fortunate to come of age in Victoria B.C. Several compatriots were Scottish so the terms spanner/wrench Stiltson/pipe, monkey jaws/ visegrip were just interchangeable. ,As for the difference between a 6 point and a 12 point box wrench, cutting a gap in a 12 point box would be preferable considering the limited swing room. Care should be taken so not to stuff up the job>
 
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