Through-hull corrosion - is this acceptable? - SailNet Community
 2Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 13 Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Zanshin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Germany
Posts: 2,392
Thanks: 0
Thanked 33 Times in 31 Posts
Rep Power: 13
 
Through-hull corrosion - is this acceptable?

All in all my through-hulls are in good shape and show no signs of corrosion. This one is an exception, it is the through-hull for the watermaker. The filter right above the through-hull had a slow drip leak of saltwater that I didn't notice for a long time, long enough for a handful of salt crystals to have collected from the evaporated leak.

I think that the corrosion might not warrant replacing the through-hull when "Zanshin" gets hauled, but I'll throw the picture out here for comment:



Here's a link to the full-size picture: https://www.sv-zanshin.com/r/images/...rough-hull.jpg


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Zanshin is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 Old 3 Weeks Ago
Senior Member
 
colemj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: On the boat cruising
Posts: 2,661
Thanks: 3
Thanked 109 Times in 104 Posts
Rep Power: 17
 
Re: Through-hull corrosion - is this acceptable?

That just looks like bronze with heavy verdigris from being a bit wet. Doesn't look like a problem to me - pretty normal, actually. I'm assuming it is still operating well. I don't know what that SS grub screw is for - grease fitting? Next haulout, just give it a shot of grease, and put some corrosion inhibitor on the handle nut, or replace the nut.

Mark

Dolphin 460 Catamaran "Reach"
Manta 40 Catamaran "Reach" - For Sale!

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
colemj is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to colemj For This Useful Post:
chef2sail (3 Weeks Ago)
post #3 of 13 Old 3 Weeks Ago
Learning the HARD way...
 
eherlihy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Boston / Ft Myers Area
Posts: 6,674
Thanks: 388
Thanked 281 Times in 276 Posts
Rep Power: 13
 
Re: Through-hull corrosion - is this acceptable?

Looks fine to me.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

USCG Licensed OUPV Captain, ASA 101/103/104/105/106/114/118 Instructor - Also certified in Marine Electrical Systems


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
eherlihy is online now  
 
post #4 of 13 Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Zanshin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Germany
Posts: 2,392
Thanks: 0
Thanked 33 Times in 31 Posts
Rep Power: 13
 
Re: Through-hull corrosion - is this acceptable?

None of my other seacocks have corrosion so this particular one got me worried. I guess if there'd been pink in the verdigris I would have been worried. I've got some boeshield so think I'll put some of that on after I make sure that the filter has stopped leaking. Thanks!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Zanshin is online now  
post #5 of 13 Old 3 Weeks Ago
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Narragansett Bay
Posts: 19,324
Thanks: 82
Thanked 544 Times in 521 Posts
Rep Power: 11
   
Re: Through-hull corrosion - is this acceptable?

The valve body looks normal, but the nut holding the handle on looks rough. Canít see what the shaft looks like. They may be your weakest link. Looks like a stainless set screw in a bronze valve. Prob not awesome either. Was this factory?


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Jeanneau 54DS

In the harsh marine environment, something is always in need of repair. Margaritas fix everything.
Minnewaska is offline  
post #6 of 13 Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Zanshin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Germany
Posts: 2,392
Thanks: 0
Thanked 33 Times in 31 Posts
Rep Power: 13
 
Re: Through-hull corrosion - is this acceptable?

No, I believe that this was not a factory through-hull, although it was done by the Jeanneau team when commissioning the boat. I didn't like the dual AC/DC watermaker offerred by Jeanneau and chose a Spectra instead. So most likely the through-hull and attached strainer were sourced in Annapolis and are a different manufacturer than the standard Jeanneau equipment.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Zanshin is online now  
post #7 of 13 Old 3 Weeks Ago
Senior Member
 
outbound's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NE & Windwards
Posts: 5,961
Thanks: 132
Thanked 175 Times in 168 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
Re: Through-hull corrosion - is this acceptable?

Is it bonded/grounded? See no wire coming out. Wouldnít blame the spectra. Assume thatís the brine discharge but even if itís the intake the hoses electrically isolate it from the unit. With prior boats have had issues with head discharge through hulls but not through hulls transporting just salt water. Would also do the toilet paper trick. Wrap it and see if the outside is getting wet.

s/v Hippocampus
Outbound 46
outbound is online now  
post #8 of 13 Old 3 Weeks Ago
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Narragansett Bay
Posts: 19,324
Thanks: 82
Thanked 544 Times in 521 Posts
Rep Power: 11
   
Re: Through-hull corrosion - is this acceptable?

Not being factory could be a plus. The thru hulls on my Ď04 are not good. Iíve replaced all below the waterline and still have a dozen at the waterline to go. Perhaps by the time they made the 57, they were using marelon for factory systems.

If Ken did the install at J Annapolis, I always thought he was pretty good. Not a fan of the dealership down there, but thatís very dated and may have changed hands by now. Iím sure you realize that Jeanneau USA (the US mothership, not the local dealer) is based there too. If not, I can send you Gilles contact info. Heís terrific.

Anyway, Iíd clean it up well (including removing the handle and cleaning/inspecting the shaft/nut) and keep a close eye on it. If you really wanted to get adventuresome, you could pound a dowel in from the outside, remove the hose and take a look at the valve. Of course, Newport harbor is maybe low 60s right now. Iíd pass.

All the best getting underway again. Weíre out cruising or Iíd offer whatever local assistance I could.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Jeanneau 54DS

In the harsh marine environment, something is always in need of repair. Margaritas fix everything.
Minnewaska is offline  
post #9 of 13 Old 3 Weeks Ago
Administrator
 
Jeff_H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Annapolis, Md
Posts: 8,697
Thanks: 33
Thanked 417 Times in 348 Posts
Rep Power: 10
     
Re: Through-hull corrosion - is this acceptable?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zanshin View Post
I think that the corrosion might not warrant replacing the through-hull when "Zanshin" gets hauled, but I'll throw the picture out here for comment:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post
The valve body looks normal, but the nut holding the handle on looks rough. Canít see what the shaft looks like. They may be your weakest link.
That looks like the same ball valve manufacturer and type that I had installed on my boat in 2004 (also in Annapolis). I had four of those 3/4" dia. seacocks installed at that time (engine intake, head intake, and sink drain and life raft compartment drain) and three of the four have failed and have been replaced. Two failed when the shaft no longer turns the ball. In both cases it felt like the ball was closing normally but when the hose was removed for winterizing it turned out that the ball was not closing or opening when the handle was being turned. In the third the shaft snapped off at the handle.

Looking at the photos, as Minnewaska rightly noted, it looks like the green on the valve body is surface corrosion and of no real consequence, but that the corrosion on the on the shaft could be more serious based on my experience with these valves.

Quote:
Originally Posted by colemj View Post
That just looks like bronze with heavy verdigris from being a bit wet. Doesn't look like a problem to me - pretty normal, actually. I'm assuming it is still operating well. I don't know what that SS grub screw is for - grease fitting? Next haulout, just give it a shot of grease, and put some corrosion inhibitor on the handle nut, or replace the nut.

Mark
The small stainless steel set screw prevents the handle from turning more than 90 degrees. The handles are reversible. in order to reverse the rotation of the handle the setscrew is moved to an identical tapped and threaded hole on the opposite side of that face of the fitting.

Jeff
oysterman23 likes this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Curmudgeon at Large- and rhinestone in the rough, sailing my Farr 11.6 on the Chesapeake Bay
Jeff_H is online now  
post #10 of 13 Old 3 Weeks Ago
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 125
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts
Rep Power: 3
 
Re: Through-hull corrosion - is this acceptable?

We had several old through-hulls replaced at a highly-respected boat yard. A month after launching, we noticed one of the brand new through-hulls was corroding at an alarming rate. It turned out that they used a steel threaded nipple to attach the bronze hose fitting to the bronze seacock. Initially, we thought it was just a case of dissimilar metals. But then I touched a magnet to it. They used a mild steel househould plumbing fixture in a through-hull assembly! When I contacted the yard manager, his response was underwhelming. No apology; he just asked "Do you feel comfortable replacing the part yourself?" That angered us even more than the initial mistake. So we made them send a technician to us to replace the part (only about an hour's drive away).

These photos were taken about 6 weeks after the boat had gone back into the water.




Sometimes, even when you take the prudent course of action, it can backfire on you.
Damon Gannon is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome