Fiberglass & Bow Repair - SailNet Community
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Fiberglass & Bow Repair

As seen in my other thread my bow pulpit got pulverized by the mast during a long set of towing. In the process the forward part of the pulpit tore out some fiberglass. This was made worse by my need to pry the bolts that had pulled up out through the top of the deck.

I am left with a mess of shattered fiberglass now. In order to do a proper repair with a 10:1 bevel is nearly impossible here as I can barely fit up in this chain locker area. I could possibly do a proper 10: bevel repair on the deck surface.

I was thinking of doing the best I can on the deck surface and adding a large piece of G-10 to the top side of the chain locker. This way the repair to the area where the front of the pulpit is attached does not have to be 100% as the force of the attachment will be spread over a much larger area.

Any suggestion on doing the repair this way?

How thick of a piece of G-10 should I use?
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20190623_090050.jpg   20190530_114439.jpg   20190622_183123.jpg   20190622_183442.jpg  

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Re: Fiberglass & Bow Repair

grind out the damage area dose not need to be 10 to 1 add a 1/4 piece of g10 or fiberglass sheet to the bottom with thickened epoxy and fill the damaged area with fiberglass cloth and then filler I use the fiberglass sheet from mcmaster carr it is as strong for boats as g 10 and a lot cheaper

https://www.mcmaster.com/fiberglass
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Re: Fiberglass & Bow Repair

clean well for a good bond... apply pressure from below till epoxy sets apply cloth soaked in resin over the glued on piece... tabbing it in. You'll want a decent backing plate when you re mount the base.
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Re: Fiberglass & Bow Repair

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grind out the damage area dose not need to be 10 to 1 add a 1/4 piece of g10 or fiberglass sheet to the bottom with thickened epoxy and fill the damaged area with fiberglass cloth and then filler I use the fiberglass sheet from mcmaster carr it is as strong for boats as g 10 and a lot cheaper

https://www.mcmaster.com/fiberglass
1/4 " Fiberglass sheets will be here Wednesday according to McMaster. Thanks for your suggestions.

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Re: Fiberglass & Bow Repair

Large fender washers
Easy to create long pressure wedges with 2x whatevers after youve drawn the bolts/machine screws tight
Should be good to go...hopefully never visited again
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Re: Fiberglass & Bow Repair

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Originally Posted by overbored View Post
grind out the damage area dose not need to be 10 to 1 add a 1/4 piece of g10 or fiberglass sheet to the bottom with thickened epoxy and fill the damaged area with fiberglass cloth and then filler I use the fiberglass sheet from mcmaster carr it is as strong for boats as g 10 and a lot cheaper

https://www.mcmaster.com/fiberglass
Thanks for this suggestion. Mcmaster got it here in two days. The rest of my order is Amazon Prime and not showing up for 5 days. I got a 12x12" 1/4" sheet. What is the best way to cut this? I carry a battery powered circular saw and oscillating saw in my truck but could also bring a table saw. Boat is 6 hours round trip from home, I am hoping to come prepared to get this done in a day.

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Large fender washers
Easy to create long pressure wedges with 2x whatevers after youve drawn the bolts/machine screws tight
Should be good to go...hopefully never visited again
My plan was too just bring two 8' 2x2s and create a long stick to pry the fiberglass sheet up against the deck's underside. I will consider some mechanical fastners to ensure it is pulled tight. Then go back and fill with a filler or epoxy when I repair the former mounting holes for the pulpit.

I have 1.5 oz chopped strand mat. From my last repair it seemed too thick to lie down flat and absorb epoxy. Is there a lighter matt I should get or should this work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Attached are photos so you can see what i am working with.
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20190623_090050.jpg   20190622_183442.jpg   20190622_183123 (1).jpg  

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Re: Fiberglass & Bow Repair

cut with the oscillating saw the fiberglass sheet is abrasive and will dull circular saw blades. you can use mat but i prefer glass fiber it is stronger and more pliable most mat has binders in it that do not dissolve with epoxy resin they are made to dissolve in the styrene in polyester resin they do make some mat that is for epoxy.
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Re: Fiberglass & Bow Repair

It’s hard for me to see from your photos, but is your deck coring start after pulpit mounting holes? (Doesn’t really make much difference in the repair.) I have a little “router” attachment for my Dremel tool (for cutting holes in drywall). I use router Zip Bits for drywall. Sure, they can get kind of dull after multiple uses, but what the heck. I also use a sander to smooth the shape.

This probably is a multiple day process to fiberglass. Use thickened epoxy on the plate’s backside to minimize point loading and wedge it up while curing. I prefer woven mat for strength for the outside laminate. Then fill in the damaged area and spray gelcote. Nothing like working in the cramped pointee ends of the boat (been there!) good luck and have fun.
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Re: Fiberglass & Bow Repair

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It’s hard for me to see from your photos, but is your deck coring start after pulpit mounting holes? (Doesn’t really make much difference in the repair.) I have a little “router” attachment for my Dremel tool (for cutting holes in drywall). I use router Zip Bits for drywall. Sure, they can get kind of dull after multiple uses, but what the heck. I also use a sander to smooth the shape.

This probably is a multiple day process to fiberglass. Use thickened epoxy on the plate’s backside to minimize point loading and wedge it up while curing. I prefer woven mat for strength for the outside laminate. Then fill in the damaged area and spray gelcote. Nothing like working in the cramped pointee ends of the boat (been there!) good luck and have fun.
Not sure where the coring starts but I have been told on the S2 forum the cleats aft of this area are in solid glass.

I have a zip tool, I will bring with me and play with that and the oscillating tool to see what cuts best. I am building my own home so I have one of every tool, my problem is narrowing down which tools to bring/use.

I don't think the pointy end will be too rough for the glassing. Trying to unbolt the pulpit was not much fun, I brought my 18v cordless drill to do the job, the damn thing is heavy.

I am trying to find some epoxy friendly woven mat. Jamestown Distributing recommended this.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ct.do?pid=1441

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Re: Fiberglass & Bow Repair

I would not worry about using mat for the repair. mat is used by the manufactures as the first layer in the mold to prevent you from seeing a print thorough of the cloth weave in the gelcoat finish. it is also used to build thickness in a layup at a lessor cost. mat is the weakest form of fiberglass materials used in a layup and is the heaviest because it soaks up a lot of resin.
I would use a good cloth and do the layups with the fiber orientation in multiple directions and leave the layups a bit low so there is room for filler up to the finished surface

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