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post #11 of 17 Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Re: mounting 9" handhold without backside access

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Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post
Dual lock is amazingly superior to velcro. It's what holds up most of our headliner and has very high shear and tensile strength.

However, it has two weaknesses. The first is by design. It can be separated by leverage, it's supposed to be able to come apart. If you were to lever the handhold to the side, it would release the dual lock. Second, the less intentional, is the adhesive for the strips does fail over time (ask me how I know). The two halves of the dual lock stay well connected, but it detaches from it's subsurface. Perhaps that could be overcome by better adhesive, but you'd need to remove what comes on it first. Maybe a version comes without any adhesive.
True enough... Depends on the forces applied to the hand holds. If they are large you would want mechanical fasteners or even epoxy. Teak hand holds cab be attached through the face up through what they are mounted on.

If you can't get behind the surface then perhaps mount from the face. Use a bung

We would really need to see a pic and or a drawing of the existing condition to "design" the mounting.

pay attention... someone's life depends on it
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Re: mounting 9" handhold without backside access

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Originally Posted by pscoe View Post
Lag is the wrong word. I was thinking of a short ss screw, deep enough to go through the gelcoat and into the core, and use 5200 caulk.......
If you have core, it's probably balsa. It could also be plywood or maybe a synthetic. You haven't told what boat you have yet. In any case, the core material is not going to allow for any meaningful holding strength. As another mentioned, it's probably not all that thick either.

Where there is a will, there is a way, just not the way you hope. Wish you could post a pic. Even identifying the boat, allows folks to look up generic pics. Some have very creative ideas, when they see the challenge, rather than try to imagine.

p.s. If you penetrate the core material, I'd highly suggest potting the hole. Drill a slightly oversized hole, dig the core material back a bit, between the layers of glass. Then fill the hole completely, especially inside the groove you created, where core material used to be, with thickened epoxy, to form a plug. Then redrill your desired hole. This way the water absorbent core material can't get wet and rot, if water gets past the fixture.


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Re: mounting 9" handhold without backside access

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Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post
If you have core, it's probably balsa.

p.s. If you penetrate the core material, I'd highly suggest potting the hole. Drill a slightly oversized hole, dig the core material back a bit, between the layers of glass. Then fill the hole completely, especially inside the groove you created, where core material used to be, with thickened epoxy, to form a plug. Then redrill your desired hole. This way the water absorbent core material can't get wet and rot, if water gets past the fixture.
This is exactly how I remounted my cabin top handholds, that were originally screwed into the core.
They haven't leaked or budged since. The hole I created was no greater in circumference than the base part of the handhold, but I dug back under the deck quite a bit, and filled with epoxy. As I recall, I had to drill/tap new smaller starter holes into the epoxy.
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Re: mounting 9" handhold without backside access

Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post
If you have core, it's probably balsa. It could also be plywood or maybe a synthetic. You haven't told what boat you have yet. In any case, the core material is not going to allow for any meaningful holding strength. As another mentioned, it's probably not all that thick either.

Where there is a will, there is a way, just not the way you hope. Wish you could post a pic. Even identifying the boat, allows folks to look up generic pics. Some have very creative ideas, when they see the challenge, rather than try to imagine.

p.s. If you penetrate the core material, I'd highly suggest potting the hole. Drill a slightly oversized hole, dig the core material back a bit, between the layers of glass. Then fill the hole completely, especially inside the groove you created, where core material used to be, with thickened epoxy, to form a plug. Then redrill your desired hole. This way the water absorbent core material can't get wet and rot, if water gets past the fixture.
Yes. If you are doing this to set screws, push tiny strips of 6 oz glass cloth into the cavity to reinforce it. This keeps the plug from cracking and gives the threads MUCH better bite. I've pull-tested this in research. It makes a difference.

But I'd through-bolt a hand hold or skip it. You need to KNOW it will hold.
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Re: mounting 9" handhold without backside access

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Originally Posted by capta View Post
Without through bolting this handhold it isn't a very good idea. Better nothing than something that might fail when most needed, IMO.
Capta has the best solution and I think the only correct one.
If the glass bulkhead is thick enough and there is enough space between the inner and outer skins a toggle bolt may do the trick, but would not be as strong as a through bolt.
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Re: mounting 9" handhold without backside access

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Originally Posted by pdqaltair View Post
Yes. If you are doing this to set screws, push tiny strips of 6 oz glass cloth into the cavity to reinforce it. This keeps the plug from cracking and gives the threads MUCH better bite. I've pull-tested this in research. It makes a difference.
Making a thick filler from milled glass fiber and resin does this too and is easier and cleaner to work with.

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Re: mounting 9" handhold without backside access

Another suggestion if there is sufficient thickness is a blind nut. There are many types and styles, and they go by different names - look for blind nut, threaded insert, rivet nut, jacknut, nutsert, and probably more names.

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