JMHO, but I think that circuit panel breakers should ideally be sized for the load they're dealing with.
If you can't do that, then the circuit breaker should be feeding a fused panel that has appropriate size fuses for the loads.
One thing you might want to consider doing is setting up a foredeck light and possibly hull-mounted lights, that are connected to a fuse panel that supplies the control line to the anchor windlass, so that these lights would come on when you're working with the anchor and windlass. Having hull-mounted lights pointed into the water makes working with the anchor a lot simpler, especially at night or in bad weather.
The fused panels I prefer for wiring are the Blue Sea ones that take the ATC fuses and look like this:
Or you could add a switch panel to the setup and run the breaker to that and run the windlass as a single fused-switch off the panel. I use these panels on my boat, because they're water resistant in design, use standard ATC blade fuses and the switch panel prevents the switches from being easily hit accidentally since it extends past them a bit. .
I recently added several of both to my boat to clean up the mess that the electrician who commissioned my boat made of the DC side of things. It also allowed me to reduce the types of fuses that I have to carry as spares to just ATC, MegaFuse and MaxiFuses. The ATC are for individual instruments and devices, the MegaFuse is a 250 Amp fuse for the Inverter-to-house bank connection and the Maxi-fuse protects the main DC panel.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
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