Replacing Bleed Screw? - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 6 Old 05-20-2010 Thread Starter
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Replacing Bleed Screw?

I have a Yanmar YSM-8 engine. Prep for launch included changing fuel filters. After finishing bleeding the fuel lines I attempted to tighten the screw on the secondary (engine) filter and was unable to do so. I am assuming that this means that the screw and/or the slot is stripped. I tightened as much as I could and ran the engine. Of course fuel is now leaking from this screw.

Any help with remedies would be greatly appreciated.

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post #2 of 6 Old 05-20-2010
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Does the screw have a sealing washer and, if so, was it replaced? The washers are usually made of copper or plastic and shouldn't be resued, as they crush to make the seal. If the washer fell off that would also explain the inability to make a good seal. Be very careful not to overtighten as the threads are easy to strip out.
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post #3 of 6 Old 05-20-2010
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Your description sounds like the housing is stripped since it is easy to over torque a bolt in casted aluminum. It really should not take that much to tighten the bleed screw. Also you should be able to see stripped threads if it is in fact stripped. You might have to tap the hole, if there is enough material to do so, and use a larger threaded bolt with plastic or copper washers. A better suggestion, if stripped, would be order a new part from a supplier. Torrenson Marine might be able to help with shipping you a part. Lake Michigan and Great Lakes Sailing Information - Torresen Marine, Inc. - Muskegon, Michigan
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post #4 of 6 Old 05-20-2010
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Repalcing bleed screw

Same thing on my 1GM10. I replaced the strainer basket. Bought it from Bob at Long Island Yacht Services in Huntington. Next day delivery. Price ws $50.
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post #5 of 6 Old 05-20-2010
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Rig, I just started my Beta 35 for the first time and it required bleeding and Joe from Sound Marine who sold me the engine, made a special point, to tell me DO NOT TIGHTEN TOO MUCH, he said use a small wrench one hand, just snug. Reason is it is an aluminum bolt, and hollow also. Hopefully that is the case wf you, maybe get a new one try some teflon tape with the new one if its still funky. Red

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post #6 of 6 Old 05-31-2010
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The Yanmar engines (2GM20 also) filter has a bolt with phillips head slots and a copper washer and a smaller screw with a plastic washer for the bleed screw. IF you use the larger bolt, the copper washer has to be replaced or annealed before reuse. To anneal it you must heat it until it glows and then allow it to cool. It does not require quenching. If the smaller screw is used, it is wise to replace the plastic washer. Should the threads in the housing become stripped, replace the housing or drill and tap to the next larger size. It you drill and tap, be sure to remove all possible particles to prevent the possibility of any contaminant getting into the injector pump. Contamination will kill it and rebuilding, replacement is expensive!!!

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