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The new CDI should have a turnbuckle inside the drum. Presumably, the installer set the turnbuckle to achieve the same length as your original headstay, but really, only they would know that for sure.
It's obviously a lot easier to adjust the backstay turnbuckle than take the drum of the furler apart to access the headstay turnbuckle, but since new wire will stretch, you will probably have to at some point.
If your backstay turnbuckle is currently turned down more than it used to be,(you can sometimes tell by the discoloration on the threads), then the headstay is longer because it was not set right or it has already stretched. So you should go ahead and tighten up the forestay.
The best way to go about this is to loosen the backstay and hold the mast forward with the old jib halyard and then pull the clevis pin at the bottom of the headstay. Then you can work on the foredeck so as to lessen the possibility of dropping one of those pesky little screws or nuts overboard as you disassemble the drum.
Tighten the turnbuckle up enough so that your backstay turnbuckle will be a little more open than it was before you had the furler installed. That is if you were happy with the way it was tuned before. That way, as the wire stretches, you will only have to adjust the backstay.
The way I determine tension on the headstay is by feeling the backstay. You want it almost as tight as the upper shrouds, but not quite.
If you didn't have a furling system previously, it will seem a little floppy because of the extra weight of the sail and the extrusion but you shouldn't have a whole lot of deflection when sailing in light to moderate conditions.
Hope that helps.