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post #41 of 55 Old 08-22-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Cal 28 Flushdeck project

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I'd strongly recommend you not leave them bare aluminium after you bring them back. Bare aluminium will be a constant maintenance headache. Either get them re-anodized or prime them with zinc chromate and paint them.

If you must leave them bare, the best metal polish I have found is Solvol Autosol. Putting a heavy coat of wax on afterwards will help delay the onset of oxidation. Otherwise you'll have to polish them every week.
SloopJonB

Again ... thanks for the tip ...

Did some more research tonight and found this from Don Casey ...
"Most aluminum marine hardware is anodized, and polishing can remove this surface coating, leaving the aluminum unprotected. (Read the fine print: most polishes say "Do not use on anodized aluminum.") Instead of polish, try scrubbing the aluminum with fine bronze wool and a powdered cleanser (Ajax, Bar Keeper's Friend). Then give the clean surface a heavy coat of wax. This may not restore the aluminum to like-new luster, but it will retard future oxidation."

So I will try as well the bronze wool and Bar Keeper's Friend ... and then try both Solvol Autosol (found a site here in the states to buy a tube) as well as
Collinite 885 Fleetwax ... and see what works best ...

I don't want to paint ... and much prefer the base aluminum ...

BTW ... didn't get anything done on the Cal today ... even tho' I took the afternoon off work ... but did manage to find an excellent viewing spot for the practice runs ...


"It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye."
Antoine de Saint-Exupery
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post #42 of 55 Old 08-25-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Cal 28 Flushdeck project

Feeling rather good that work is progressing ...yes slowly overall but progressing ... got 3 hours in this afternoon as the weather is finally turning warmer (high 60's) ... and didn't go out to see the ACWS ... battery box is complete and tomorrow morning will finally buy the 3 batteries for the bank and install ... finalized location of the 12V and 110V panels and now need to cut and build the hinged wooden frames to mount them in ... and actually start wiring ... with a little perseverance (and warm weather) I might have the aft bulkhead varnished and ready to install next week as well ...

working on-site does pose it's unique problems ...



but also has it's advantages ... I had two 'neighbors' at the marina come by in the last week and offer to buy the Cal ...

"It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye."
Antoine de Saint-Exupery

Last edited by Cal28; 08-25-2012 at 02:27 AM. Reason: photo
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Re: Cal 28 Flushdeck project

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working on-site does pose it's unique problems ...

How do you get away with using that saw on the dock? From what my Cali friends have told me, putting sawdust in the water is virtually a capital crime there.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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Re: Cal 28 Flushdeck project

I just cam across this post. I love watching old boats come back to life. Great job!

I'll be out in SF in a few weeks i hope the Cup boats are there practicing when I am there.

Keep up the good work!


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post #45 of 55 Old 08-25-2012
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Re: Cal 28 Flushdeck project

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How do you get away with using that saw on the dock? From what my Cali friends have told me, putting sawdust in the water is virtually a capital crime there.
I'm in California, and I see table saws being used on the docks all the time. It usually depends more on the marina, as many are getting so anal about people actually working on their boats. Basically, it's more of an aesthetic thing than an environmental problem. However, I have heard of people getting in trouble for putting paint and/or varnish dust into the water.

Never forget them. Do something to prevent it from happening again.
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Re: Cal 28 Flushdeck project

You can have the aluminum powder-coated to protect it. This can be done in a wide variety of colors, including "aluminum" or simply clear. A shop with "Image Fusion" technology can even make them look like wood.

Personally, I'd save up for new opening ports from New Found Metals - Marine Hardware and Stainless Portlights , but that is a very pricey option.

Regarding that crack in the companionway- you are going to have to grind it out completely, feather the edges of the fiberglass at least 5:1, and add some new glass to it. Anything less is a patch and not a repair. You wont need any SS plates with this method, either.

What is the headroom on these boats when *not* under the companionway hatch? There is one for sale rather cheap "near" me and I'm looking for another Cal after my '73 Cal Cruising 35 was destroyed by T.S. Debby
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post #47 of 55 Old 08-26-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Cal 28 Flushdeck project

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How do you get away with using that saw on the dock? From what my Cali friends have told me, putting sawdust in the water is virtually a capital crime there.
SloopJonB

As SlowButSteady mentioned ... it is a matter that differs marina by marina ... although I have found that private marinas (a vast minority) are abit more liberal in their rules concerning people actually working on their boats (weekends seem to be filled with the sound of power tools) ... tho' still extremely vigilant as to any potential pollution (as they should be) ... btw sawdust will make an excellent medium (along with coconut husks) for the composting head soon to be installed ... the capital crime I see is that within a 1/2 mile there are 3 marinas with over 1200 boats ... and on 'any given Sunday' there might be only as many as 10 that find their way onto the Bay ... except for the Tuesday night beer can races when magically 15-20 suddenly appear ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser2B View Post
I just cam across this post. I love watching old boats come back to life. Great job!

I'll be out in SF in a few weeks i hope the Cup boats are there practicing when I am there.

Keep up the good work!
Cruiser2B

Thanks ... alot of time and effort has been put into this project ... before any work was really started ... not in any way as knowledgeable or talent as so many here ... but enjoying it immensely ... even the challenges

btw ... there's another ACWS event here in San Francisco during fleet week Oct 2nd thru 7th ... hopefully your trip will bring you here that week

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowButSteady View Post
I'm in California, and I see table saws being used on the docks all the time. It usually depends more on the marina, as many are getting so anal about people actually working on their boats. Basically, it's more of an aesthetic thing than an environmental problem. However, I have heard of people getting in trouble for putting paint and/or varnish dust into the water.
SlowButSteady

That's what I have found as well

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seafarer View Post
You can have the aluminum powder-coated to protect it. This can be done in a wide variety of colors, including "aluminum" or simply clear. A shop with "Image Fusion" technology can even make them look like wood.

Personally, I'd save up for new opening ports from New Found Metals - Marine Hardware and Stainless Portlights , but that is a very pricey option.

Regarding that crack in the companionway- you are going to have to grind it out completely, feather the edges of the fiberglass at least 5:1, and add some new glass to it. Anything less is a patch and not a repair. You wont need any SS plates with this method, either.

What is the headroom on these boats when *not* under the companionway hatch? There is one for sale rather cheap "near" me and I'm looking for another Cal after my '73 Cal Cruising 35 was destroyed by T.S. Debby
Seafarer

Thanks for the link ... I have looked at those (and most aftermarket mfg's of ports) ... I'd like to keep the ports original (yes ... one of ~those~) but just bring them back to life ... planning on replacing the with automotive safety glass ... a big project I know ... I'll look into powdercoating them ...

and yes ... planning on performing a full repair before I mount the aft bulkhead ... (thanks SloopJonB) ...

As for the headroom when NOT under the companionway hatch ... I believe it is somewhere around 5'4" ... but the good thing is that most of the walkspace in the main cabin IS under that hatch ... I'll measure it today and let you know tonight ... hope it works out for you ...

"It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye."
Antoine de Saint-Exupery

Last edited by Cal28; 08-26-2012 at 11:59 AM.
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post #48 of 55 Old 08-27-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Cal 28 Flushdeck project

A long weekend and actually got alot accomplished ...

The battery box is complete ... and awaiting batteries ...



Much thought was given to the placement ... originally the battery box was located on the centerline beneath the aft cabin seat ... moving further aft (behind the rudder post and up against the lazerette) transfers about 150 lbs much further aft ... and initially I was hesitant to do this ... until I remembered that when I bought her she had 6 filled sandbags in the aft lazerette to keep her bow up ... and then realized that filling the water tank in the V berth will add another 150 forward and adding the refrigerator in the head area adds another 80 or so forward ... I don't in any way shape or form even pretend to know anything about sailboat design ... but I feel that shift won't be a negative ... I guess I'll find out soon enough ...

Also got the first run of cork panels cut and fitted for the V berth ...



again ... chosing the cork was not a snap decision ... as last year a layer of reflectix worked well to insulate as well as help keep moisture from forming in winter ... but I do think that keeping the air moving and heated also played a major part in that ...
plan on attaching to the hull with liquid cement in the V berth ... the head compartment ... behind the sliding lockers/cabinets in the main cabin and in both 1/4 berths ... which will add about 140 lbs but also add a much richer look and feel ... along with deading abit of noise ...

and cut both the opening and the wooden mounting plate for the new 12V and 110V electrical panels ...



now it's varnishing ... and finding some hinges to mount the wooden plate in order to allow it to swing open for access ... and then the wiring starts ...

now ... a quick question for any and all ...

about the only thing that the PO did to her ... was add this circular cut piece of lexan to the forward hatch cover ...



it does allow abit of light into the V berth ... though it was rather quickly and poorly done ... in my dreams I had envisioned building a boxed teak hatchcover with a lexan top but that would change the entire look and just ... wouldn't work ... as there is ample room on the forward deck (one of the hallmarks of the flushdeck) and as I am planning on running the halyard lines back to the cockpit and not raising and lowering at the mast ... I am wondering if there is anything I can do to perhaps ... add abit more lexan (a new piece) ... with perhaps with a leveling cut to make the edge less abrupt ... and still maintain the strength to hold a person's weight should they walk on it? ... any and all thoughts and comments welcome ...

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Last edited by Cal28; 08-27-2012 at 02:59 AM.
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post #49 of 55 Old 08-27-2012
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Re: Cal 28 Flushdeck project

RE: Lexan disk in hatch cover:

How about replacing it with a round solar ventilator/fan like you see retrofitted into quite a few hatches?

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Re: Cal 28 Flushdeck project

The procedure for doing that is detailed in several boat improvement book. I'd advise against using Lexan - it scratches very easily. Its reputation for being bulletproof misleads many into thinking it's better than acrylic for that purpose but it isn't. Most commercial hatches use acrylic because it is plenty strong and stands up better over time.

Take the existing hatch to a plastics shop and ask them what the thickest acrylic is that will bend to that curvature. I'd guess 1/4" but 3/8" might do it as well. Remember that the curvature will add a lot of stiffness to the final product. Use a dark tint - I prefer grey to bronze as it creates a coolish light compared to the dirty looking and hot golden light that bronze tint creates. Both look the same black from outside. You can probably do the job with a piece from their offcuts.

Cut the lens to fit to the edge of the hatch and bevel or round over the edge for the taper you referred to.

Next, mark the underside of the existing hatch when closed to give you the outline of the curb - you need this to ensure the fasteners don't interfere with the curb.

Lay out your fastener positions neatly and symmetrically on the underside of the hatch. Clamp the acrylic in position on the hatch and drill through both pieces. Remove the lens and overdrill the holes slightly so expansion in the sun won't crack the lens.

Cut out the opening in the hatch, leaving an appropriate shelf for the lens to sit on with enough width for the fasteners. If you are nervous about strength you can cut two openings and leave a strip of glass on the centerline but this isn't necessary.

Dry mount the lens using round head fasteners (NOT countersunk flatheads - they'll crack the lens) I find S/S Truss head machine screws perfect for this - they have a larger diameter, lower profile head than conventional roundheads.

Trace around the mask on the underside of the acrylic, carefully score it with a razor knife and remove the mask edge, leaving the center masked.

Wipe the hatch mounting flange with acetone to ensure it's clean. Put sealant on the unmasked edge - Dow 795 is perfect for this. Fasten the lens down on the centerline fore & aft and then add fasteners alternately, moving out to the sides. Don't over tighten - just get them snug and ensure good squeeze out - 795 is an adhesive sealant used for glazing in curtain wall construction.

When cured, clean up the excess sealant with a razor knife, remove the mask and remount the hatch.

Et Voila - a huge visual improvement and lots more light below.
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