Cal 28 Flushdeck project - Page 6 - SailNet Community
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post #51 of 55 Old 08-30-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Cal 28 Flushdeck project

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Originally Posted by Seafarer View Post

What is the headroom on these boats when *not* under the companionway hatch? There is one for sale rather cheap "near" me and I'm looking for another Cal after my '73 Cal Cruising 35 was destroyed by T.S. Debby
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I forgot to measure it Sunday ... but with the good weather got a couple hours work in tonight ... and remembered ...

on the centerline ... headroom is 5' 11.5" under the main hatch ... and 5' 8.5" NOT under the companionway hatch ... remember that everything is shifted abit to starboard on the interior ... so take away up to 2" as you measure closer to starboard ...

still ... as I again say ... there is more cabin room and space in a Cal 28 flushdeck ... especially one without an inboard ... than in most 32's and many 34's ...

"It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye."
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post #52 of 55 Old 08-30-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Cal 28 Flushdeck project

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The procedure for doing that is detailed in several boat improvement book. I'd advise against using Lexan - it scratches very easily. Its reputation for being bulletproof misleads many into thinking it's better than acrylic for that purpose but it isn't. Most commercial hatches use acrylic because it is plenty strong and stands up better over time.

Take the existing hatch to a plastics shop and ask them what the thickest acrylic is that will bend to that curvature. I'd guess 1/4" but 3/8" might do it as well. Remember that the curvature will add a lot of stiffness to the final product. Use a dark tint - I prefer grey to bronze as it creates a coolish light compared to the dirty looking and hot golden light that bronze tint creates. Both look the same black from outside. You can probably do the job with a piece from their offcuts.

Cut the lens to fit to the edge of the hatch and bevel or round over the edge for the taper you referred to.

Next, mark the underside of the existing hatch when closed to give you the outline of the curb - you need this to ensure the fasteners don't interfere with the curb.

Lay out your fastener positions neatly and symmetrically on the underside of the hatch. Clamp the acrylic in position on the hatch and drill through both pieces. Remove the lens and overdrill the holes slightly so expansion in the sun won't crack the lens.

Cut out the opening in the hatch, leaving an appropriate shelf for the lens to sit on with enough width for the fasteners. If you are nervous about strength you can cut two openings and leave a strip of glass on the centerline but this isn't necessary.

Dry mount the lens using round head fasteners (NOT countersunk flatheads - they'll crack the lens) I find S/S Truss head machine screws perfect for this - they have a larger diameter, lower profile head than conventional roundheads.

Trace around the mask on the underside of the acrylic, carefully score it with a razor knife and remove the mask edge, leaving the center masked.

Wipe the hatch mounting flange with acetone to ensure it's clean. Put sealant on the unmasked edge - Dow 795 is perfect for this. Fasten the lens down on the centerline fore & aft and then add fasteners alternately, moving out to the sides. Don't over tighten - just get them snug and ensure good squeeze out - 795 is an adhesive sealant used for glazing in curtain wall construction.

When cured, clean up the excess sealant with a razor knife, remove the mask and remount the hatch.

Et Voila - a huge visual improvement and lots more light below.
SloopJonB

Thanks immensely ... for taking the time to write this ... and explain ... took me a couple of readings to fully understand ... looked at it all tonight ... and not only is it very doable ... I now believe I can do it myself ... AND ... more importantly ... it is EXACTLY what I was looking for ...

as you might suspect ... I am rather short on experience ... and try to do my homework before I ask something here ... got more than a few books that I have read on maintainance and repair and utilize the internet ... almost ad nausiam before actually tackling something ... wanting to understand while I do it ...

if you don't mind ... I have two questions ...

1) ... I would imagine that the cut on the existing hatch would be somewhere around 1.5" inside the line of the curb ... and the placement of the fasteners centered on a line .75" inside ... ?

2) ... spacing between the fasteners would be approx every ... 2.5" ?

I am curious as to your recommendation for the dark tint ... I also prefer the soft white of the grey to the yellow colored light of the bronze ... but was thinking about leaving it clear ...

Once again ... thank you for your time ... it has definitely moved this far up on my priority list ...

"It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye."
Antoine de Saint-Exupery
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post #53 of 55 Old 08-30-2012
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Re: Cal 28 Flushdeck project

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Originally Posted by Cal28 View Post
SloopJonB

1) ... I would imagine that the cut on the existing hatch would be somewhere around 1.5" inside the line of the curb ... and the placement of the fasteners centered on a line .75" inside ... ?
That sounds reasonable - it will vary depending on the width of the curb on your boat, how much the flange of the fiberglass hatch overhangs the curb and so forth. You want to keep the fasteners as far out as possible to the edge of the fiberglass hatch without the nuts underneath hitting the curb

Quote:
2) ... spacing between the fasteners would be approx every ... 2.5" ?
Sounds reasonable - you don't want to overdo the number of fasteners though - 2 1/2" or 3" should be good - choose the spacing around there that will give you an even and symmetrical pattern. Keep in mind that the Dow 795 is adhesive, not just a sealant. Most commercial aluminium hatches have the lens simply glued in place with it or something similar. You really only need the fasteners to hold the plexi down to the curved surface of your plastic hatch

Quote:
I am curious as to your recommendation for the dark tint ... I also prefer the soft white of the grey to the yellow colored light of the bronze ... but was thinking about leaving it clear ...

Once again ... thank you for your time ... it has definitely moved this far up on my priority list ...
The dark tint simply looks better, especially from the outside. Clear lets too much light & heat in and simply doesn't look as good as the tinted stuff. I have "opaqued" clear plexi on my boat - looks similar to if it had been sandblasted - and it doesn't look good. I plan to change it to tinted but the nearly $1K cost for the plexi is keeping it on a back burner - my hatches are BIG - 36" square lens on the forehatch alone. I'll need a whole sheet of 1/2" or 3/4" to replace mine.

By the way, the "grey" tint I recommended looks about like the colour of cigarette smoke from the inside.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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post #54 of 55 Old 09-02-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Cal 28 Flushdeck project

ok ... just a quick note as the focus currently is on the electrical system and I saw this ...

Two DM 145w Polycrystalline Solar Panels - 290W Total for Only $0.82 per Watt!

I've read just enough about solar panels to make myself dangerous ...

anyone have any experience using panels from DM Solar?

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post #55 of 55 Old 09-05-2012
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Re: Cal 28 Flushdeck project

I'd like to add the tiniest bit of additional advice to Sloop's hatch instructions (which were thorough and generous, BTW). Anytime you use adhesive or sealant, mask off anything nearby you don't want to get gooped up with sealant. Preventing is 1/10th the work of cleaning.

I was thinking especially of the hatch top, outboard of where the new plastic will overlap. A bunch of goo will squeeze out when you tighten the fasteners. Much better to have it squeeze out onto your best friend the blue masking tape rather than your gelcoat.

As for fasteners, a piece that size I'd use a total of 12. One in each corner, two evenly spaced on each side. EIDT TO ADD: No, forget that, still 12, but three along each edge, one in the middle, two more nicely spaced up to an inch from the corner. Depending on the materials and the situation, one right in the corner could cause a stress crack.

Oh, and maybe a quick shot of white paint inside the hatch where you have cut thru the glass for a nice finished look.
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Last edited by Ritchard; 09-05-2012 at 02:05 PM.
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