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post #11 of 18 Old 05-08-2018
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Re: I cut holes in my boat!

With the correct blade cutting though fiber glass up to 3/8 inch thick should be no problem for a 2.2 amp saw. 3/4 inch fiber glass, structural metals or heavy dimensional lumber would be another story.

On jobs requiring finesse the 2.2 amp machine allows for greater control and is the better tool for the job. The new higher amperage Sabre Saws many times need that extra power because they have an aggressive orbital blade action which also can result in more chipping when working with laminates. I sometimes will use a piece of SawSlick attached to the bottom of the Sabre Saw to have a zero clearance slot for the blade to pass through to further minimize chipping and tear-out. Painters tape on the material over the cut line will also help prevent chipping and scuffing of the surface and can save you a lot of grief.

I will many times on a hot day use my orbital Sabre Saw which has a dust pickup instead my 15 amp 8 1/4 inch circular saw for cutting sheet goods and such just to keep from slinging so much saw dust all over that you have to clean up afterwards. I really hate being hot and sweaty in the near to 100 degree heat of the Tampa Bay Area and covered in dust followed up by having to clean up all the saw dust in the area.
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post #12 of 18 Old 05-09-2018
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Re: I cut holes in my boat!

One word. Dremel. Thing will cut through fiberglass like water. It's easier to get close to edges and such too.

Nice work by the way.
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post #13 of 18 Old 05-09-2018
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Re: I cut holes in my boat!

A router or Dremel like tool with a template guide and bushing is another option however for a new user I would be hesitant to recommend one free hand since if you loose control they can pull hard and fast off the line (usually the outside and not into the dunnage).

Have done too many repairs for folks who have lost control free handing a router or rotary tool.
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post #14 of 18 Old 05-09-2018 Thread Starter
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Re: I cut holes in my boat!

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A router or Dremel like tool with a template guide and bushing is another option however for a new user I would be hesitant to recommend one free hand since if you loose control they can pull hard and fast off the line (usually the outside and not into the dunnage).

Have done too many repairs for folks who have lost control free handing a router or rotary tool.
Having first tried using an angle grinder with a cutting wheel for this job, I definitely see your point! The jig/saber saw was soooo much easier to control. I'm glad it all worked out for me, but the really smart play would have been to ask for advice first. What a concept.
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post #15 of 18 Old 05-10-2018
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Re: I cut holes in my boat!

A vibrating multi tool. has been the best cleanest way to cut most FRP. The cut straight,clean & quick. Use carbide or fine bi-metal blades.
Cut this 1/4 inch transom skin off this Grady White. Cutter when you need it or a sander.
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post #16 of 18 Old 05-10-2018 Thread Starter
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Re: I cut holes in my boat!

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A vibrating multi tool. has been the best cleanest way to cut most FRP. The cut straight,clean & quick. Use carbide or fine bi-metal blades.
Cut this 1/4 inch transom skin off this Grady White. Cutter when you need it or a sander.
do you recommend any particular brand of multi-tool?
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post #17 of 18 Old 05-10-2018
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Re: I cut holes in my boat!

In a professional setting we use Fein brand they are expensive. For my home projects I'm using a Porter Cable available at Lowes for just about $100 comes with blades to get started. Google Oscillating tools


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post #18 of 18 Old 05-10-2018
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Re: I cut holes in my boat!

I second the multi tool. I've used mine god knows how many times. I think its easier and cleaner than a jig saw. One thing about a jig saw is the blade depth. If you know nothing's behind what you're cutting rock and roll but wires, hoses are run in some strange places on boats.
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