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post #11 of 19 Old 12-13-2018
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Re: Clear Hatch Lenses

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But, WOW, I didn't realize how expensive cast acrylic can be!
Ha! He who posts his intentions before he gets a quote!

My acrylic is this beautiful, artistic, crazed weathered scratched look. Damn fine because its free


BTW to tint the acrylic you could use the neutral density transferes the auto glass dues use. Then if you dont like it you pull it off.

The problem with Sunbrella is you will never take it off as its too much of a pain in the neck.
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post #12 of 19 Old 12-13-2018
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Re: Clear Hatch Lenses

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Originally Posted by paulinnanaimo View Post
I'm curious and confused. You are going to replace the tinted hatch with a clear one so that more light will enter. But you will cover the clear hatch so that no light gets in. Do I understand your intentions correctly?
Just like you close your window shades or blinds to protect things from the sun in your home when the suns too direct or your not using the room, you can put on internal or external covers. Some just make a pillow up that's a tight fit for the interior of the hatch opening however that does not protect the hatch itself from getting sun damaged. Most would put them on when their not using the boat and its being stored in the yard or at the dock. If you do not line the covers then they will let light filter through and still minimize sun damage.
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post #13 of 19 Old 12-13-2018
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Re: Clear Hatch Lenses

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Just like you close your window shades or blinds to protect things from the sun in your home when the suns too direct or your not using the room, you can put on internal or external covers. Some just make a pillow up that's a tight fit for the interior of the hatch opening however that does not protect the hatch itself from getting sun damaged. Most would put them on when their not using the boat and its being stored in the yard or at the dock. If you do not line the covers then they will let light filter through and still minimize sun damage.
We have a roller shade on our V-berth hatch like this:https://www.defender.com/product.jsp...153&id=1815672. It has an aluminized reflector layer on the side facing the hatch and a fitting that keeps it in place when you roll it out. There are fancier versions that have a full frame and include screening as well as a shade—I believe this style is made by Oceanaire.

With a horizontal roller shade, you can let more light in or less, as you require. A clear or light tint on the lens would be preferable if you have a roller shade if you want the solar heating effect at times.
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Re: Clear Hatch Lenses

Barquito-
Not only is the "good stuff" (UV resistant and/or high strength and scratch resistant, there are different specs for all) expensive, but unless you are dealing with a huge local supply house, they are going to have to order a full sheet, often 4x8 feet, for the material. What they keep in stock is usually not "the good stuff".
Some places will cut the piece you want--and let you keep the rest of the sheet. Others will just sell you the piece you want, but charge you for the full sheet, and they hold onto the rest of it.
So it pays, usually, to order the full sheet, and have them do all the cutting up front at the same time. The lining paper which protects the plastic from scratching also gets very hard to remove if it gets old, so you may want to zip that off before "too" long as well.
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post #15 of 19 Old 12-13-2018
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Re: Clear Hatch Lenses

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Originally Posted by fallard View Post
We have a roller shade on our V-berth hatch like this:https://www.defender.com/product.jsp...153&id=1815672. It has an aluminized reflector layer on the side facing the hatch and a fitting that keeps it in place when you roll it out. There are fancier versions that have a full frame and include screening as well as a shade—I believe this style is made by Oceanaire.

With a horizontal roller shade, you can let more light in or less, as you require. A clear or light tint on the lens would be preferable if you have a roller shade if you want the solar heating effect at times.
Yep that's another popular option though sometimes the heat reflected back up can do quite a bit of damage to the interior frame/sleeve and underside of the hatch. Had one frame turn bright orange and start cracking from the reflected heat so we learned to use an external cover after that especially when in storage.
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post #16 of 19 Old 12-13-2018 Thread Starter
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Re: Clear Hatch Lenses

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Originally Posted by paulinnanaimo View Post
I'm curious and confused. You are going to replace the tinted hatch with a clear one so that more light will enter. But you will cover the clear hatch so that no light gets in. Do I understand your intentions correctly?
I want the cabin to be as bright as possible, but, don't want to fry if it gets really hot. I have wood hatch covers, so, would want to have covers to keep from re-finishing as often. I haven't had hatch covers before, but, I assume they aren't to difficult to take off and put back on again.

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post #17 of 19 Old 12-14-2018
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Re: Clear Hatch Lenses

My hatch covers snap right on to the wooden hatch lid, one on each side near the corner equidistant from each other. They can be removed in about 20 seconds. It takes longer to walk the foredeck to get to them than it does to remove them. You can see it in action in the picture.



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post #18 of 19 Old 12-14-2018
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Re: Clear Hatch Lenses

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Yep that's another popular option though sometimes the heat reflected back up can do quite a bit of damage to the interior frame/sleeve and underside of the hatch. Had one frame turn bright orange and start cracking from the reflected heat so we learned to use an external cover after that especially when in storage.
Our hatch is aluminum-framed (Lewmar), so reflected heat is not an issue. Agree that an internal recflective surface is not ideal with a wood frame.
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Re: Clear Hatch Lenses

"but, don't want to fry if it gets really hot."
You might want to speak to the 3M division that makes Crystaline, a car window tint material. The lightest shade is practically clear, but the material blocks out osmething like 99% of all IR and UV light, so literally NO heat passes through the glazing.
Crystaline is applied inside the "window", can be removed with ammonia and steam or hot water if need be. Easiest to apply to the glazing before you install it in the hatch frame, of course.
The blocking of IR must mean it gets bounced back into the glazing, which apparently is no problem with auto glass, but I'd want to ask 3M if they've had any issues with that and plexi or lexan. Or, just get a piece and apply it to your existing hatch lens and see how that works.
But it most definitely will give you 99% heat blocking and 99% full visible light, unless you order a "tinted" version as well.

There are other products from a couple of other premium companies, fwiw. I have no idea if any of the plastics come in "UV and IR" blocking flavors but that's also something to explore, since that might be made and sold for structural glazing.
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