Re: 40 yr old teak decks
The OP didnít mention the brand of the boat. Iíve got a 1982 Norseman 447 with teak decks. The deck is arriving to the point where something serious is going to be required. In terms of deck leaks, the only ones after 20 years of ownership have been around the chain plates where the original installers left the core open.
Getting rid of the teak decks is a bigger job than it looks like. I just ripped up the teak on the seat area of the cockpit. It was a very small area, no more than 7í x 8í outside dimensions with a seat maybe 16Ē wide. I could do it all sitting down, not kneeling. It took two days to get all the old teak off with a circular saw and a big chisel. Another day to get out all the screws. Another day to drill out all the screw holes and fill with epoxy. Another two days to sand, smooth and finish with gel coat.
Thatís just the cockpit seat, a small area of maybe 30 square feet with excellent access and easy working conditions.
To do the same thing on the actual deck would first involve taking off all the overhead panels in the cabin, which is a big, inconvenient job. Then you remove everything thatís set down on the deck: cleats, winches, tracks, windlass, etc. Each of those can be a challenge because in my case then weíre all attached to the deck before any of the interior was installed. So often the nuts and any backing plates are now blocked with bulkhead, electrical wiring, etc. I could imagine at least a weeks work just getting all the liners down. Youíd have to label them and get them all off the boat to have any space to work.
Once everything is off the deck, youíll have to get all of the teak removed while youíre on you knees. Then drilling, filling and sanding all the holes in the entire deck. I did this once on a 41í boat and stopped counting at 4000 holes. This assumes you had nothing else like a leak somewhere to fix.
Then you need to figure out what youíre going to put back down. Will you use the old stanchion bases? Are all the fittings, tracks, blocks, etc. still usable? Should you reengineer the backing plates.
Then you have to refinish the deck. Painting with anti skid is probably the cheapest way, but takes a lot of labor to sand and mask. A synthetic surface is probably easier but costs maybe $30/square foot before installation.
Then you reinstall everything on the deck.
Then you reinstall all the interior panels.
If you can get that done for $10k, Iíd like to know where.