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post #11 of 14 Old 09-25-2019 Thread Starter
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Re: Dickerson Farr 37. I have questions

Jeff,

Most of the races I will be single handing in are distance races and in a single handed or double handed section. This will help to level the playing field as I will not be a stand alone single handed racer. I will have crew for the beer can series and many other races. interesting the the J105 was mentioned with that article as I considered them as an option, however, I need something that can be a somewhat comfortable family weekends.

It sounds like with the right approach I can tame down the DF37 for single handed racing in the big stuff and still keep her quick with a crew. She has a good below deck autohelm and I can add a sprit fairly easily. I know there is a ballast adding option in the bilge that could assist with that further with the stability. Since 75 percent of my racing over the last 5 years has been in lighter air (under 10 - 12knts) I like the idea of the lighter taller rigged boat in those conditions but I know everything is a trade off. The C&C 41 Custom that I raced before my current C&C 35MK3 had a hard time finishing above a Wylie 39 and a Frers 30 in light conditions on corrected time but would destroy the field in winds over 18 knots. In 5-8 knots of wind we just could not compete with the super light boats even when we hit our polars with a flawless start and solid antics on the race course. Still lots to consider but your input and insight has been very helpful.


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Re: Dickerson Farr 37. I have questions

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Originally Posted by gedaggett View Post
Jeff,

Most of the races I will be single handing in are distance races and in a single handed or double handed section. This will help to level the playing field as I will not be a stand alone single handed racer. I will have crew for the beer can series and many other races. interesting the the J105 was mentioned with that article as I considered them as an option, however, I need something that can be a somewhat comfortable family weekends.

It sounds like with the right approach I can tame down the DF37 for single handed racing in the big stuff and still keep her quick with a crew. She has a good below deck autohelm and I can add a sprit fairly easily. I know there is a ballast adding option in the bilge that could assist with that further with the stability. Since 75 percent of my racing over the last 5 years has been in lighter air (under 10 - 12knts) I like the idea of the lighter taller rigged boat in those conditions but I know everything is a trade off. The C&C 41 Custom that I raced before my current C&C 35MK3 had a hard time finishing above a Wylie 39 and a Frers 30 in light conditions on corrected time but would destroy the field in winds over 18 knots. In 5-8 knots of wind we just could not compete with the super light boats even when we hit our polars with a flawless start and solid antics on the race course. Still lots to consider but your input and insight has been very helpful.
A couple quick points here:
-The reason that the J-105 is mentioned is that the race in question is on the Chesapeake and the J-105 is a strong one design class on the Chesapeake and will be racing one design double handed.

-The design of the Farr 37 is such that it is not a good candidate for a sprit or an asymmetrical spinnaker. Racing this boat, and especially racing this boat short-handed, you would be way ahead of the game with a symmetrical chute on this boat but get it flat cut and add twings and learn to end for end jibe the chute. If a sailmaker suggests that you should replace the symmetrical chute with an assym, you need to replace that sailmaker.

-Adding ballast in the bilge (small and high bilge) will not help you much on any point of sail. The majority of these boats had a bolt on bulb added to the bottom of the keel. It was designed by Farr and so you should be able to get the plans. I think Mars built them so it may be a stock bulb as well. Neither of these boats in the pictures have the stock keel bulbs for the Farr 37's. The first one appears to be smaller than I remember and the second one appears to be larger than I recall.

Jeff


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Re: Dickerson Farr 37. I have questions

Jeff H,

I was wondering if you might elaborate a bit on why the D Farr 37 is not a good candidate for an assym.

Gary


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Re: Dickerson Farr 37. I have questions

Its a complex question to explain in a short reply, but here goes. In order to take advantage of an asymmetrical chute you need a boat with a hull form that will make very large gains by heating up and sailing comparatively hot angles. That normally implies a boat with a semi-displacement hull form (by way of comparison think Mumm 36 or Farr 40) (or even more so think of a planning hull), and with a lot of stability relative to drag. Neither characteristic is true for the Farr 37. Boats that best use asymmetrical spinnakers typically see 40%-50% increases in speed by heating up maybe 15-20 degrees in moderate winds (with bigger gains in speeds and VMG at hotter angles in really light winds). While the Farr 37 was one of the better reaching IOR era boats of its size (in terms of its hull form, weight and sail plan), compared to the IMS influenced designs, it really does not offer the same breakthrough speeds gained by sailing hotter angle.

And while any boat will pick up a little VMG by heating up in light winds, the huge masthead symmetrical chute and marginally lower wetted-surface on the Farr 37 means that for any wind speed the maximum VMG will be sailing at a much deeper angle than is ideal for a typical AP asymmetrical spinnaker. Because the Farr 37 does not have the high stability of more modern designs, the asymmetrical chute would need to be cut very flat so the sail can be carried up onto a reach, and that flatness would prevent the sail from working well at the deep angles that the boat should be sailed at to make the best VMG. So in order to make this flatter cut asymmetric work, the boat will be sailing at a hotter angle but because of the hull form, the boat will not have a sufficient increase in speed to offset the added distance sailed.

I am not sure how clear that really is, but at the heart of it, the deep canoe body, narrow waterline beam, and pinched stern, will limit the hull from being a really good reaching boat relative to the later designs which have hull forms that are better optimized for reaching speeds. Assyms only offer an advantage when reaching but only if the boat has the stability to carry an asymmetrical as the winds increase in speed.

Jeff


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Last edited by Jeff_H; 4 Weeks Ago at 06:55 PM.
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