Think the mast on a C38 is keel stepped which complicates things a little bit. If not https://www.garhauermarine.com/deck-...rganizers.html
installed will need a tie rod from mast to deck below to keep the halyards, etc from lifting up the deck. If the mast is deck stepped spring for a deck plate to put under the mast step to fasten all the blocks to. https://www.garhauermarine.com/catal...st+deck+plates
. If you don't use a deck plate, you'll need install stand up blocks on the deck.
Garhauer makes some nice deck organizers to turn the lines aft and the price is right. https://www.garhauermarine.com/deck-...rganizers.html
Clutches will cut down on the winches needed on the cabin top. https://www.garhauermarine.com/deck-...-clutches.html
At least one and possibly two Lewmar 16 or equivalent winches on the cabin top for a midsized boat, larger sized winches for bigger boats.. Used self tailing winches which are expensive compared to buying used non self tailing which can be found almost for nothing.
Double Line Reefing Led Aft.
I’ve sailed on two boats with single line reefing and both sucked big time. The friction took a lot of muscle to haul the reefing line in, things hung up on the reef requiring trips forward to clear, the sail didn’t trim well because of friction caused inability to haul the leech taut and there is a league or two of line you have to pull in. To be fair the boats lived in light air areas and the attempts to reef could have been the first time it was ever used so not properly sorted out. In any case, never considered single line reefing.
My boats are set up for double line reefing separate clew and tack lines. There are way fewer blocks and turns and twists in the line so friction losses are minimized. The clew reefing lines pass through three more blocks than if it was at the mast reefing and one of those is a deck organizer that turns the line only about 30 degrees so has minimal friction component. The tack lines pass through three blocks with two of those very small turning angles so almost no friction loss.
The boat is set up with tack reef lines and halyard led aft on the Port side. The line leads from a padeye, up through the sail, down to a block on mast near the boom so the tack is pulled down and against the mast, down to a block at the base of the mast, then aft through a deck organizer and through clutches to the winch. The winch doubles for tack lines and main halyard though have never needed the winch for the tack lines. The clew lines are on Stbd. They dump out the base of the gooseneck, to standup blocks on deck, aft to a deck organizer, then through clutches to the winch.
Reefing is loose the main halyard to a preset mark, usually sail will fall down but if it doesn’t pull down the tack by hand, then retention the halyard. Move to Stbd and haul in most of the clew reef line by hand then grind in the remainder with the winch if I forget to take tension on the topping lift. If I remember to take the slack out of the topping lift only have to use the winch for that last foot or so. There is only one turning clock on the main halyard so little added friction. Can haul the main up almost as far from the cockpit as from the mast.before needing the winch for the last few feet. Take the tension out of the topping lift, sheet the sail in and we’re off again.
It does take a bit of hardware to bring the lines aft. Ebay helps to keep the cost down but it still isn’t cheap. Have a winch on both sides of cabin top, could get by with one if you run the halyard back to same side as the clew reefing lines, The hardware on the double line reefing is: Tack: padeye and block on padeye at the boom, tuning block at base of mast, deck organizer, clutch and winch for each reef point. I have a newish boom on the boat so clew reef lines are internal and dump out at the gooseneck, down to stand up block at base of mast, deck organizer, aft to clutch and winch on cabin top. The winches are #12 Anderson Self Tailing on the P35 and Lewmar #16 self tailing on the Sabre 28. If you don’t have an internal reefing boom you have to add a block at goose neck to turn the line down.
Bought a lot of the hardware on Ebay so saved quite a bit over new but still a boat unit cost on the P35 to run the lines aft. S28 was alr . eady set up but blocks and hardware are smaller so cost would be less if you are starting from scratch.. If I was doing it now would explore using low friction rings and dyneema loops where possible